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2019 Mustang Alternator

Cemclo

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I've installed a sound system in my 2019 Mustang GT PP1.

I'm wondering how many amps I can pull safely as auxiliary power. I have hot/cold seats and from what i know that means a 200a alternator. Does anyone have any data on this car setup when its running heated seats and highbeams and etc?

I want 2000 watts @ 13.5v. is that around 150 additional amps I need to supply?

I've only seen bolt in alternators up to 225a for the 2019.

(so far all i have done is all the wiring, [off the rear deck speakers,battery, and grounds.] deleted the backseat, and disabled the factory EQ using forscan)

->now i need amperage,<- and to route some a/c into the trunk for cooling amps

Has anyone already done this? What are someone's best options?
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Elp_jc

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deleted the backseat, and disabled the factory EQ using forscan)
Two questions for you while you wait for answers :D: Can you please post the FORScan code to disable the EQ? And how many amps does our 2019 alternators have? Just curious about that one. Thanks.
 
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Cemclo

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ALLSTOCK

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do we get a bigger alternator if we have heated/cooled seats?
 

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do we get a bigger alternator if we have heated/cooled seats?
"This kit's special high output alternator was originally used on 2018-2020 GT Mustangs with heated/cooled seats, which is why Ford Performance is offering this upgrade as compatible with other models. The 200 AMPs of power output is a result of new tighter belts and an idler pulley, so your American-made alternator can work perfectly."
 

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m3incorp

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Are you planning to use Class D amplifiers? They pull a lot fewer amps from the alternator than the Class A and B amplifiers.
 

Elp_jc

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The 200 AMPs of power output is a result of new tighter belts and an idler pulley
If that's the case, we can rule out having a 200A alternator even on our fully loaded Bullitts (heated/cooled seats, etc), since we have the stretchy belts (no idler pulleys). So what do we have? 150A?
 

Crowd Hunter

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I think the standard alternator is 175 amps, but I could be wrong. JR3Z-10346-C
 

MikeHTally

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I doubt you need to add anything. You have a 500A+ storage box under the hood already.
 
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Cemclo

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I doubt you need to add anything. You have a 500A+ storage box under the hood already.
well yes, but pulling a true 2000w into audio (150amps I think) every 60 seconds ish is way more than a few 500a Engine starts. It will not only ruin my battery but over use and kill my alternator. It will alternate between battery fatigue and audio signal clipping but will start to ruin batteries faster.

I guess what I was trying to ask earlier was - how hard could push the 2000w electronics, on the factory alternator? Can I get a steady 1200w Or 1400w?

if I canā€™t get close, had anyone swapped in a higher output alternator or secondary?
 

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Just an aside FYI. I put in a Pioneer DX975, never had any problem other than not enough juice to charge the phone other than a trickle, at about an hour of mostly 50% volume. (read Loud AF). The D9705 doesn't sound as good and has over heated on me. (Not sure the heads up brake light is leaking or just re-tint wetness, so cheaper amp)

Good luck!
 
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Cemclo

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Just an aside FYI. I put in a Pioneer DX975, never had any problem other than not enough juice to charge the phone other than a trickle, at about an hour of mostly 50% volume. (read Loud AF). The D9705 doesn't sound as good and has over heated on me. (Not sure the heads up brake light is leaking or just re-tint wetness, so cheaper amp)

Good luck!
Thatā€™s a pretty low power amp. Probably really good for door speakers and everything but you shouldnā€™t have any issues powering it. Might need to upgrade your power and ground wires..? Overheating is definitely a problem. The sheet metal in the trunk of my black mustang gets too hot to touch. Let alone contain electronics.

I donā€™t know what youā€™re saying about the brake light... are you getting morning dew on the inside?
 

m3incorp

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Which amplifier/s are you using? Is this true 2000w, RMS or Peak and is it with all speakers at 2 ohms, etc.?

well yes, but pulling a true 2000w into audio (150amps I think) every 60 seconds ish is way more than a few 500a Engine starts. It will not only ruin my battery but over use and kill my alternator. It will alternate between battery fatigue and audio signal clipping but will start to ruin batteries faster.

I guess what I was trying to ask earlier was - how hard could push the 2000w electronics, on the factory alternator? Can I get a steady 1200w Or 1400w?

if I canā€™t get close, had anyone swapped in a higher output alternator or secondary?
 
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Cemclo

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ahl395

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Singer Alternators makes high output alternators for our cars. I have a 370A in my car.

At 2000W you may be able to get away with the stock alternator since it is decent size. Upgrading the battery to AGM could help I would install the system and see what kind of voltage drop you get first personally.
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