Almost time to finish build...some questions

[joe603]

Hey guys, I'm in the planning stages of finishing my build for my 21GT with the crap-tastic B&O system. So far I've added a dual-12 box with Memphis subs and a decent Memphis amp. Leftovers from my last stereo that I pulled before selling the car. Power wire is run, B&O sub is pulled, and the system is running using the B&O sub high-level to an Audio Control LC2i. The system sounds decent...more bass than I'll ever need. I also put down some sound deadening in the trunk. Everything is mounted on a temporary rack in the spare tire area...looks like crap, but works.

The time is coming for the next phase of the install...the mids/highs and integrating with the OEM head unit. I already have a Focal 4ch amp...and some ideas on how to finish the amp rack. The question is...replacing the door/tweeter 3 way setup with aftermarket one and of course the rear deck.

I've read quite a few threads on here and you guys have some fantastic systems! From that, I've pulled a few things that may work for me...just would like to get some feedback. I know I need an adapter from the head deck to the amps...just not 100% sure on what to get. I'm not looking for ultra high end...just need something that will do the job.

PAC seems to make something that will work, the AP4-FD21.

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-fd21

Do I also need the harness (APH-FD01)?

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/5238-aph-fd01

Next, any suggestions on speakers? Again, not looking for sound competition level stuff...just something to match the subs in volume and clarity. Focal sounds great to me and these seem to be the ticket...will they fit with relative ease? (I know some modification will be needed with anything).

Door: Focal 165AS3 6.5” 3-Way Component kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00II0WBX...DNJMBT4V&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Rear deck: Focal 165 AC Access 6-1/2" 2-Way Coaxial

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR0JTF...DNJMBT4V&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Love the forum! Thank you for reading!!

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[Evolvd]

The PAC audio amp pro is the best option for OEM integration in my biased opinion. I have it in my system and it’s so easy to work with. The FD01 harness is also a great product and allows you to send signal from your aftermarket amps through the OEM wiring. This is especially important for the doors as there is no easy way to run new speaker wires without drilling holes. Also the stock wiring is more than capable of handling 100 watts per channel or more. The only thing to be aware of is you’ll need to make your tweeter connections. The OEM setup has the 3.5” and tweeters running in parallel and the FD01 is setup to continue that use. I de-pinned the two rear channel wires and used those to run into the A-pillars. I then wired the rear speakers directly to the amp since all of that stuff was in the trunk

As for speakers, I don’t have knowledge on specifics of the Focal range but I’d check their measurements and compare to stock. You’re looking mostly at basket and magnet depth with the 3.5 being the most restrictive since there’s a door support frame right behind it.

Sounds Good Stereo can give you some info as they’ve done a Focal build on a GT500 with the B&O system. They also sell adapters that are great for installing aftermarket speakers. I have them for my build and the fit is excellent. Their 6.5” and 3.5” adapters also come with pigtails to plug directly into the stock door wiring.

Feel free to PM me if you have any specific questions about your build or integration as I just finished mine not too long ago and learned a lot.

 

[joe603]

Thanks for the reply...love your setup man!! Let me try and reiterate what you said about the tweeters. I understand that the OEM amp has the tweeters in parallel to the 3.5s...but what does that look like?

I drew out the wiring...I think this is how it will be.

 

[Evolvd]

Thanks for the reply...love your setup man!! Let me try and reiterate what you said about the tweeters. I understand that the OEM amp has the tweeters in parallel to the 3.5s...but what does that look like?

I drew out the wiring...I think this is how it will be.

The FD01 harness does not plug into the pac audio unit. If you look just above your hood latch the OEM amp is mounted there. There are three plugs and you’ll disconnect the center one. The FD01 plugs into the plug you disconnect which goes out to the speakers. The FD01 kit also includes a replacement plug for the amp that has load resistors to trick the amp into thinking it’s still sending an audio signal out and prevents it from telling the CANBUS system there is an audio issue.

The parallel wiring for the OEM 3.5s and tweeters is hidden somewhere and I don’t know of anyone who has found it. The workaround is you de-pin or clip the four wires for the rear speakers at the FD01 plug and then add a few feet of wire to them to run up to the A-pillars and connect your aftermarket tweeters. The OEM tweeter plug is left disconnected can be secured and left alone.

 

[joe603]

Gotcha! I think I'm following. The AmpPro is for low level signals from the head deck and the harness is just OEM wiring to the speakers. The other end of that harness will be in the trunk and connect to the component crossover, using the rear deck line for the tweeters. Then, the rear deck is hardwired to the amp.

Last question...remote turn on. Right now, I'm using the LC2i for my amp; this will be removed when I add the AmpPro. So where do you pull for the remote wire? I could go to the fuse under the hood, but I'm sure there's something I can tap into behind the radio.

 

[Evolvd]

Yep. You got it. And the harness for the Amp Pro has a remote wire that you can add length to and run to the trunk. I ran mine down the transmission tunnel under the carpet.

 

[Ben James]

I had to do a fair bit of fabrication to put in a set of 3 way Focals (see pics) however they were the KX3s. The focal flax series tweeters click straight into the A pillars with no problems at all.

the mods will require a little bit of work to make sure they don’t have cone clearance issues but it’s quite easy to scrape and mold the inner side plastic shroud of the door panel to suit, as well as a bit of scraping of the inner door panel for clearance of the 6.5” cone. Easily do-able with a scalpel

for the 6.5” mid I sourced an ABS 1/2” spacer meant for a subaru WRX and doctored it to suit.

pics show a focal mid mounted to the OEM spacer, and the larger Focal tweeter fitted into the OEM A pillar, for ideas.

also see in the pics, the OEM harness was adapted to take the mid bass and mid frequencies, and a separate connection (yellow cables in harness) went directly to the tweeters. I decided to keep the system passive (using the crossovers) just in case the amp settings accidentally sent full range to the tweeters drying setup.

I have a Euro spec Mustang which has the OEM amplifierin the left footwell. Once the OEM amp was removed, it gave me just enough space to fit a Perspex adapter plate, an aftermarket amp, and the two crossovers in its place. Was a tight fit though

for working out the wiring I used the “stereo information” sticky thread in this section which worked out perfectly although the thread is becoming quite long now . I also watched this massive video on YouTube from 5 star car audio which showed some details of the Mustang stereo system that helped a lot

Remote turn on: in the OEM amp harness is a 6 volt turn on signal which I recommend using a TR4 relay (or similar) to integrate. This will make sure the amp will turn off in an instance where the car wants to conserve battery (just like OEM).



the focals sound phenomenal, but time alignment will be required to bring the best out of them in the OEM positions.

 

[Ben James]

More photos!!! Hope your build is going ok.

One of the most important things I installed was a DSP and I think it is a key element in integrating a replacement setup on the Mustangs. I think it’s more important than upgrading the rear speakers!

In my setup I have a set of Focal coax for rear fill but I barely use them. I have them set up so they provide what is termed ‘rear differential fill’. This is where they have been sculpted by the DSP to only play the left and right parts of the sound stage, and the central (mono) parts have been silenced. It sounds AMAZING!

With my install it’s the first time I’ve trusted the front speakers to do all of the hard work and have virtually nothing in the rear. I was worried it would make the soundstage shallow but I was sooooo wrong. I don’t think I’ll ever go back to a normal rear fill again!

 

[joe603]

The amps I have don't have a fiber dsp input, so how does it work in the system? Does it go in-line with the RCAs after the harness? What DSP would you recommend?

 

[Evolvd]

The amps I have don't have a fiber dsp input, so how does it work in the system? Does it go in-line with the RCAs after the harness? What DSP would you recommend?

DSP is not an input. It’s a processor within the amplifier. DSP amps also do not require optical input however some have that option.
As for which DSP amp you need, that depends on how many channels you want to power (you need a channel for each individual signal if you want an active system), how much power you want per channel, and how deep your pockets are since DSP amps can be double the price or more compared to same brand and layout without DSP.. Audio Control makes good products that won’t break the bank.

 

[joe603]

Gotcha...I already have the amps I'm going to use, so I guess I'd need something between the OEM head deck and the amps. If I had deep pockets it would be a GT500!

I read about some options to use instead of the PAC AMPPro...but wasn't sure if was worth the extra $$.

 

[Evolvd]

Gotcha...I already have the amps I'm going to use, so I guess I'd need something between the OEM head deck and the amps. If I had deep pockets it would be a GT500!

I read about some options to use instead of the PAC AMPPro...but wasn't sure if was worth the extra $$.

If you have the B&O system the PAC Amp Pro is one of the easiest solutions to pull a flat signal and requires no splicing or wire cuts.
There are DSP options out there that you can use if you already have an amp….but if those amps are sending signal to a crossover network you won’t see much out of it. The JL Audio TWK88 is a non-amplifier DSP.

 

[m3incorp]

Late to the show but as stated, the PAC Amp Pro makes integration with the head unit so much easier. You are planning to use your Memphis amp, so the dsp pretty much can be from any brand......the main factor is if you are going to do the tuning or if you are having someone else do the tuning...if that is the case, see what they are used to working with.

 

[Cathul]

The amps I have don't have a fiber dsp input, so how does it work in the system? Does it go in-line with the RCAs after the harness? What DSP would you recommend?

Ask your local installer/dealer what they carry and use regularly. If possible ask if you can get a demo in one of their vehicles.
Sadly, most dealers cannot really tune a DSP, but you could always ask the nation wide distributors for recommendations for good tuners as they usually know really well where they are located.
That said you can use basically every standalone DSP.
I saw above that you're using the passive crossovers, which is perfectly fine as you can still benefit a lot from a DSP. Yes, you cannot control each channel and driver individually, but still, you gain EQ, active crossovers between Sub and front system (and rears), you can do basic time alignment for the midranges for the front, individual left/right levels and so on.

For your installation i can recommend the Mosconi Atomo DSP.
It's a very tiny box, but don't let the little box distract you from it's processing power.
To get a good dealer/tuner near you, you can contact the guys at Orca Design and Manufacturing.
They also have a link to a dealer locator on their website: Dealer Locator

It also has special algorithms for rear fill if you want to have it, the option for different presets (i.e. different settings depending f.e. if you're alone in your car or with a passenger) and so on and it doesn't break the bank.

It might be somewhat more expensive than others though as it's imported to the US from Europe, but i think for a 6 channel DSP it's one of the best DSPs on the market (and one of the tiniest packages as well, so easy to put into any car).

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