Alignment Advice for 2016 PP, street + AutoX use

Discussion in 'Road Course, Track, Autocross, HPDE' started by jimbabwe, Dec 10, 2019.

  1. jimbabwe

    jimbabwe Active Member

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    I've read through other threads, and have tried to go through the 90 page thread on what people have done for F-street, but just confirming, the best thing to do in my case. The car goes in for an alignment this weekend. As a note, this is the first time I've tried to set up the car with an alignment for AutoX.

    Tires: MPS4S, stock PP tire size (255/275)
    Use: street and occasional AutoX. I don't have a spare set of rims + tires...yet.
    No aftermarket sway bar installed on front or rear

    Front alignment:
    Camber: max stock setting (-1 to -1.5 deg?)
    Toe: Zero
    Caster: stock setting

    Rear alignment:
    Camber: Also max stock setting? -1 deg?
    Toe: 0.1 deg toe-in each side?

    Just curious to hear thoughts from others on if I'm on the right path here. I appreciate the input.
     
  2. Labradog

    Labradog Well-Known Member

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    There's no factory camber adjustment up front. Unless you have camber plates or bolts you're stuck with what it is. street-handling-bmr-kelly-jpg.jpg
     
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  3. Dana Pants

    Dana Pants Well-Known Member

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    #3 Dana Pants, Dec 11, 2019
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2019
    You need to grind one of the strut bolts holes 1 mm. There is a ford service manual specifying this procedure. I doubt a shop will spent the time to do it. Best done with a Dremel and a beer.

    I’m guessing that the rear should be like -1.5 deg camber and minimal toe in. Front should be minimal toe out.

    I’m running -1.7 rear and the inside of my tires burned up faster than the outside. 9D81772F-B775-4CEC-AF01-65CC0AF8FF3C.jpeg
     
  4. NightmareMoon

    NightmareMoon Well-Known Member

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    Stock front camber isn't adjustable unless you modify those bolt holes, so you get what Ford gave you. That said, grinding the front strut holes is very easy work with a basic dremmel and the default grinder attachment.. The grinder fits the hole perfectly. Getting exactly 1mm is another matter. Get new strut to spindle bolts if you're going to grind those holes so you get the ideal clamping force from fresh bolt stretch, reusing old bolts will increase the chance that that bolt will slip on you. I've had them slip multiple times. The other way to reduce slipping is to weld 1mm of material back in on the other side of the hole (which isn't hard either, all you need is a nub of material to keep the bolt in the new location). The procedure is 1mm on the top hole only, and remove material towards the strut body so you can tilt the top of the spindle in towards the center of the car. You'll get less camber than you want this way, but its better than nothing. Honestly tho I'd just wait until you get some Konis or better shocks and do it on the new parts.

    Front toe I didn't find seemed to matter much if it was slightly toe in, slightly toe out or zero toe. I like zero on my car, but its a slight preference.

    I agree with -1.5 rear camber and 0.1-0.13 toe in per side. A lot of shops don't know where to adjust the rear camber, but yes its there. Its not marked, but it IS adjustable.

    Go get yourself a swaybar. Fronts are easy if you want a understeering car, lots of options. BMR, Steeda, etc. If you want to go the rear bar route for a more neutral/understeering car I like the Strano Parts rear bar. Its not as aggressive as the normal options and is better suited to a car with only one upgraded bar, and its still enough to balance out a front bar later if you go to CAM or something. The car NEEDS one or the other to help neutralize the body roll. With stock shocks and stock bars, you're on the bump stops too often.
     
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  5. OP
    OP
    jimbabwe

    jimbabwe Active Member

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    Thanks for the responses everyone, I appreciate the insight. Thanks Labradog for the chart, looks like a good place to start.

    I didn't realize that I had to modify the front strut bolt holes to adjust the camber. I think I side with NightmareMoon and wait to touch front camber if I decide to upgrade shocks or whatnot in the future.

    I found this other thread which appears to show the rear camber adjustment on the rears, I'll be sure to show the performance shop I'm taking the car to for reference. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/rear-camber-adjustment-pics-how-to.21537/

    I'll have to look into the sway bar a little more. My preference is to stay in F-Street for now, so I'll have to choose between a front or rear bar at some point. I'll definitely need to research that one a bit more before pulling the trigger. I'm not sure I'd prefer the car to understeer, so I'm guessing initially a rear bar may be the way to go.
     
  6. OP
    OP
    jimbabwe

    jimbabwe Active Member

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    Not much luck with the front camber (right camber especially), but was able to dial in most everything else. I realized today that with my tri-ax street shifter w/ bushing and jacking rails, I will have to class in CAM-C next season anyways. So...maybe its time for some camber plates and upgraded dual sway bars. IMG_20191223_180550.jpg
     
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