Advice for Sheared Steeda Differential Bolt

[jvm051]

There is no concern whatsoever. Severe axile hop due to other reasons will rip things apart. That's why there been limited failures with stock bolts and other kits on the market. You have to put control in the right places and set up the vehicle properly to eliminate axile hop.

I've got the irs bushings, alignment dowels the vertical links and the braces as well, along with good tires. I still getting some hop though.

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[rvlyssup]

There is no concern whatsoever. Severe axile hop due to other reasons will rip things apart. That's why there been limited failures with stock bolts and other kits on the market. You have to put control in the right places and set up the vehicle properly to eliminate axile hop.

What are the chances that severe axle hop was due to compromised hardware?

I have almost a beefed up rear suspension as well...have zero wheel hop but then again, I don't drag race or use LL. I too would rather swap out the hardware now before a problem if its compromised or subpar from the get go.

 

[SteedaTech]

I've got the irs bushings, alignment dowels the vertical links and the braces as well, along with good tires. I still getting some hop though.

What tires are you running and pressures?

 

[SteedaTech]

What are the chances that severe axle hop was due to compromised hardware?

I have almost a beefed up rear suspension as well...have zero wheel hop but then again, I don't drag race or use LL. I too would rather swap out the hardware now before a problem if its compromised or subpar from the get go.

Very rare if any or installed incorrectly. If you control the axle hop you won't compromise the rear axle components. it's the violent axle hop that destroys fasteners and components.
Tire pressure plays an important role, lower the pressure the better.

 

[jvm051]

What tires are you running and pressures?

295/35r20 Nitto 555 G2's at 32psi on the street.
Will be running Hoosier 28x10x17 slicks on the track

 

[SteedaTech]

295/35r20 Nitto 555 G2's at 32psi on the street.
Will be running Hoosier 28x10x17 slicks on the track

Lower the pressure on the Nitto's to 30psi you will be amazed on what two pounds make. Plus, at the track you can even go lower. I will get back to you on the Hoosier pressure. We have a hard core drag racer at Steeda in our development dept I will ask him for his recommendation

 

[Doctor Fishtail]

I've got the irs bushings, alignment dowels the vertical links and the braces as well, along with good tires. I still getting some hop though.

The BMR Cradle lockout kit fixed mine. Very simple install and IT WORKS I cannot stress this enough. This BMR part might be the reason I have not sheered off any diff. bolts. I ordered the Steeda brace and returned it. The BMR and Steeda brace cannot be installed together and since the BMR cradle lockout did the job I had no use for Steeda brace.

 

[SteedaTech]

The BMR Cradle lockout kit fixed mine. Very simple install and IT WORKS I cannot stress this enough. This BMR part might be the reason I have not sheered off any diff. bolts. I ordered the Steeda brace and returned it. The BMR and Steeda brace cannot be installed together and since the BMR cradle lockout did the job I had no use for Steeda brace.

You are incorrect, this customer does have the CB 005 in his build notes.
So why does he still have severe axle hop as communicated in this thread?
On another note, our hardware is all grade 10.9, not junk as you quoted earlier.
Furthermore, this kit is used by Melissa Urist on her S550 which runs 8's in the quarter mile and makes over a thousand horsepower to the ground with no issues.

We will be working with this customer to get to the root cause, and keep this educational for everyone.

 

[BMR Tech]

Plenty have broken diff bolts without wheel hop, including myself.

The best way to overcome this is to simply remove the shear loads from the weak threads on the 10.9 Graded 14mm bolts.

For example, use a 12.9 Grade bolt and place the shear load on the shank. The difference in shear load capacity is staggering.

 

[rvlyssup]

Plenty have broken diff bolts without wheel hop, including myself.

The best way to overcome this is to simply remove the shear loads from the weak threads on the 10.9 Graded 14mm bolts.

For example, use a 12.9 Grade bolt and place the shear load on the shank. The difference in shear load capacity is staggering.

Excellent stuff Kelly!

There is probably an obvious answer to my question but I'm gonna ask it anyways, for us running STEEDA's insert kit, would we be able to get stronger hardware from you?

 

[IvanCRF]

Plenty have broken diff bolts without wheel hop, including myself.

The best way to overcome this is to simply remove the shear loads from the weak threads on the 10.9 Graded 14mm bolts.

For example, use a 12.9 Grade bolt and place the shear load on the shank. The difference in shear load capacity is staggering.

Would this require re-threading the differential?

 

[BMR Tech]

Excellent stuff Kelly!

There is probably an obvious answer to my question but I'm gonna ask it anyways, for us running STEEDA's insert kit, would we be able to get stronger hardware from you?

Are you running their kit? If so, shoot me a call and I will send them out to you. :cheers:

Would this require re-threading the differential?

No. It requires drilling the thread out to fit the shank through, and also requires some minor mods on the front side of the mounting ear.

 

[rvlyssup]

Are you running their kit? If so, shoot me a call and I will send them out to you. :cheers:



No. It requires drilling the thread out to fit the shank through, and also requires some minor mods on the front side of the mounting ear.

Yes sir I am...Thank You Kelly!

Will call you in 10 minutes...

 

[IvanCRF]

Kelly, do you see less failures with the all aluminum differential bushings? Or is there more to be had with the shank style bolts?

 

[BMR Tech]

Have not seen one failure with solid aluminum. That is the best way to go.

Not allowing the diff to move at all, is what will prevent the bolts AND the diff ears from failing.

I tried to stick with various diff mods on mine, but ended up going solid aluminum. Over 10 sixty foots in the 1.2's...still no signs of any issues.

I worked with GForce with the diff stuff, and we actually supply them with the solid bushings for their kits, and the holes are larger and fitted with larger diameter hardware. However, the 14mm stuff is fine with solid.

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