Active exhaust help

[Nighthawk]

I purchased a car used from a friend of a friend. The car originally came with active exhaust, but he had issues with it (shorting out at the passenger side weld seam). He took it to a shop and they installed a non active exhaust and other performance upgrades along with a tune.

I bought an active exhaust car back, actuators and pigtails to get to be able to use the active exhaust again. I couldn’t get anything to work once installed.

yes, I checked the fuse, it was good. So I talked to the tuner and he said active was turned off in the tune. So he sent me an updated tune file with active turned on. And still nothing. It just says “Exhaust Mode Selection Not Available.”

Anybody have any tips on what to try next?

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[Skye]

Reads like you've got all the bits and a new tune, but the wiring, the short (or whatever the problem was), was never fixed.

I'm studying an "Active Exhaust Recalibration Procedure" which is supposed to be done any time the actuators are replaced. Doing this should confirm electricity, wiring and the actuators themselves.

1. Sit in the car, doors closed, everything off. Wait 10 mins or so, to ensure everything is "off".

2. Press the start button to enter accessory mode. Do not start the car. Do not exit the car. Do not press any other button or activate any other service.

3. With someone outside the car, after about 20 seconds, the person should hear the actuators move to fully open and then move back to the proper position. They might click. If this happens, once the actuators have stopped moving, wait another 20 seconds, then turn the car off. Remain in the car, wait 10 mins or so, to ensure everything is off.

4. Start the car.

5. Attempt to cycle to another exhaust mode, check for errors, availability, etc.

If you do that and it works, great.

If not and no one sees any activity or availability of the service, I'd research and test the wiring and clear the original problem. Maybe contact the friend and ask how they determined it was a short, if the wiring had been damaged or they tested it in a specific way.

 

[Mach VII]

Sounds like a wiring issue, very common problem. There is a relay as well that is part of the system, see photo in THIS link to identify....

 

[Skye]

Some supporting links on the recalibration.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/reset-procedure-for-active-exhaust.146155/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/active-exhaust-sounds-like-crap.121345/page-5#post-2920036

 

[Nighthawk]

Sounds like a wiring issue, very common problem. There is a relay as well that is part of the system, see photo in THIS link to identify....

I’ll check it out!

Thanks!

 

[Nighthawk]

Some supporting links on the recalibration.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/reset-procedure-for-active-exhaust.146155/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/active-exhaust-sounds-like-crap.121345/page-5#post-2920036

I have tried this and nothing.

Thanks!

 

[Nighthawk]

What’s the best way to check for power at the actuator?

 

[Skye]

You can use anything from a simple light probe to a multimeter.

If someone is in the car, attempting Step 2 of the recalibration, another outside can use those tools.

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Home/SetCountry?returnUrl=/

This site is where Ford offers access to all their tech manuals, schematics, everything. It's a lot. For three days and $28, you can have unlimited access to view and download. You will not download one book. You can download as many of the countless files that you like. Ford should have formal test procedures for checking voltage or fault codes.

Edit,

Before you get in to deep, reach back to the original owner to discuss the short.

 

[MAGS1]

Make sure you have the actuators seated properly as well. The valves should be open when installing the actuators. If the spring is not fully seated, the valves won’t function properly and will throw the same code.

 

[Nighthawk]

Make sure you have the actuators seated properly as well. The valves should be open when installing the actuators. If the spring is not fully seated, the valves won’t function properly and will throw the same code.

yeah, they’re open and I know they’re seated right.

There are no codes. The actuators have never even tried to move. That is the hard part.

I am heading to a buddies house that has Forscan and we will see if active is turned on with both lines. I hope that’s the issue.

 

[S550HPP]

You can use anything from a simple light probe to a multimeter.

If someone is in the car, attempting Step 2 of the recalibration, another outside can use those tools.

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Home/SetCountry?returnUrl=/

This site is where Ford offers access to all their tech manuals, schematics, everything. It's a lot. For three days and $28, you can have unlimited access to view and download. You will not download one book. You can download as many of the countless files that you like. Ford should have formal test procedures for checking voltage or fault codes.

Edit,

Before you get in to deep, reach back to the original owner to discuss the short.

Great link to invaluable resource!!

Especially for collision repair procedures / spec that enable confirmation any 3rd party repair scope. Priceless especially when comes to structural stuff where insurance will spec non compliant hack and weld reduction strength by up to 70%... Also to verify body shop capabilities certifications and execution.

Got a near new Volvo written off with Volvo's repair procedures when insurance and shop tried to chop and hack refusing even icar procedure disclosure...only when I gave the the OE prescribed repair did they step into line and write it off.

 

[SlowyoteJay]

Have you tried looking in Forscan to make sure it was on through there? If the car originally came with active exhaust, a tune shouldn't turn it off unless the tuner turns it off (I'm assuming), so I feel like checking forscan wouldn't hurt.

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