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908ssp

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I ran the cable through the interior, under the carpet, in the corner of the passenger side, up over the inside fuse box out the big rubber boot, there along the harness and on to the engine compartment fuse box. The cable hooks up the same place it did previously and the starter cable bolts there as well. The grounds run together to the mount on the strut tower. The battery ground will go to the child seat bolt so the chassis will be the ground from the battery to the engine. This is the same arrangement I used on the 2010. I will install a breaker with switch on the battery so I can easily switch off the battery when working on the car.
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WOuld a sidepost batter be a better bet, now that yoou changed ots location? You goignt o put a cover over the batter, so a wet carpet doesn't short it out?
 
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908ssp

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WOuld a sidepost batter be a better bet, now that yoou changed ots location? You goignt o put a cover over the batter, so a wet carpet doesn't short it out?
Just some rubber caps on the battery. I want to get the life out of the original battery if I change a side mount will probably be an option but light weight will or power capacity if I need it.
 

Anthony

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never liked the idea of a live battery cable running through the car.

so I engineered with my own set up.
 

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Tear Down Day

908ssp, wow! I admire you ability to tear that Mustang down like that. From what I seen and read about your 2010 from your other posts. Your a mod craftsman. I'd like to ask you a few questions if you don't mind. I'll be picking up my 2015 GT in about two weeks. My plan is to install a FRPP/Roush SC myself.

Did you take off the front end primerly for the install of the intercooler radiator?

What type of SC is shown in the photos?

Does it look like the strut tower brace can be retained with the SC ?

Do you recommend VMP SC and or at least their tunes on say a new FRPP/Roush supercharger ?
 

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908ssp

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I pulled the rear deck cover off so I could remove the GT emblem and paint it black. I had to grind off the emblem pins since they are melted inside the cover. I'll use double stick tape to put the emblem back on. here are the pictures in no particular order.









 
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908ssp

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tips on removing the rear decklid?
I didn't remove the deck lid or do you mean the back black panel? Four screws and pull basically. I have to admit it is intimidating to pull those metal clipped tabs out of those slots. I did it by myself but it would help to have two extra hands. So once you pull the first clip out someone can hold it while you pull at the second clip. Take a careful look at the pictures.
 
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908ssp

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908ssp, wow! I admire you ability to tear that Mustang down like that. From what I seen and read about your 2010 from your other posts. Your a mod craftsman. I'd like to ask you a few questions if you don't mind. I'll be picking up my 2015 GT in about two weeks. My plan is to install a FRPP/Roush SC myself.

Did you take off the front end primerly for the install of the intercooler radiator?

What type of SC is shown in the photos?

Does it look like the strut tower brace can be retained with the SC ?

Do you recommend VMP SC and or at least their tunes on say a new FRPP/Roush supercharger ?
Yes the bumper cover has to be removed for the heat exchanger ordered a custom made one will let you know how that goes.

That is a Eaton new from a a GT500 it will easily make 650 rwhp but I'll have it tuned for no more than 600 rwhp probably 550 rwhp. I don't want to risk having to rebuild the bottom end just not worth the hassle. And 550 rwhp from an Eaton is the same as 550 rwhp from Whipple or KB. On a street driven car the Eaton still has some advantages over a screw blower don't believe all the hype from the sellers of screw blowers.

No the cross tower brace won't work but I do think the more important rear tower brace the black one will. I'll probably build a custom strut tower brace just for the fun of it if there is enough room between the blower and the hood. I have some other ideas too so we'll see.

I recommend the TVS blower over a screw blower for the street if you can afford it. they run cooler when out of the power which is 95% of the time. That keeps your water cooler for those short bursts of power when you need cooling from the intercooler system. I don't know anything about either tune both seem to have a good reputation.
 

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Coming along very nicely, keep up the great work!
 
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908ssp

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The extra is that any GT500 pattern blower will fit the manifold. [FONT=&quot]2.3L TVS, 2,9 and 3.4 Whipple can also be used just a custom pulley and some fiddly stuff. The inexpensive and readily available Eaton will make 550 RWHP and 650 RWHP if you are willing to risk your bottom end or build it, in which case you're probably willing to pay for bigger SC.[/FONT]
 

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How is the cooling of the intake charge handled? Does the S/C have an integrated heat exchanger, are there off the shelf units, or do you custom make your own?

You had mentioned the S/C came from a GT500, so does it already have the cooler included? Is that the big square block that the S/C is sitting on?

-T
 
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908ssp

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How is the cooling of the intake charge handled? Does the S/C have an integrated heat exchanger, are there off the shelf units, or do you custom make your own?

You had mentioned the S/C came from a GT500, so does it already have the cooler included? Is that the big square block that the S/C is sitting on?

-T
We designed and have built the biggest best flowing intercooler on the market bar none. Show me one other intercooler that will take 1 1/4" NPT fittings. The fittings are on the back of the manifold and there is enough space to fit AN type smooth radius bends no 3/8" NPT street elbows here.

I am waiting on our custom made heat exchanger and will be fitting that while the manifold is being made. It too will have 1 1/4" NPT fittings and will be the size of the radiator absolutely as big as the front of the car will allow.
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