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HKusp
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Yes, it was leaking on a brand new built short block within a few hundred miles. I reused the oil pan from the original engine, which had 47k miles on it but a new gasket. Paid to have a new oil pain gasket put on and it leaked again within 20 miles. Had the Gen 2 put on, and so far, about 2,500 miles, no leaks. I'm not sure why the Gen 3 leaked, but so far I am happy with the Gen 2 conversion. I had to get with ARP for mine because when building the engine I used all ARP hardware and the PBH uses the stock TTY hardware to replace a couple of the main bolts and I wasn't about to do that. I explained to ARP what I was doing and they shipped me a couple of main studs, washers and bolts to replace what PBH provides in their kits.
Cobra Jet
Well-Known Member
The K-member has to be totally dropped (or engine popped out from the top) to replace the oil pan?
Why can’t the trans mount, front of driveshaft, forward exhaust, and engine mounts be unbolted so that the engine can be hoisted upwards (and safely secured), then drop the pan down and slide it out between the K and engine? No? Not enough room?
Why can’t the trans mount, front of driveshaft, forward exhaust, and engine mounts be unbolted so that the engine can be hoisted upwards (and safely secured), then drop the pan down and slide it out between the K and engine? No? Not enough room?
I Bleed Ford Blue
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The coyote is a skirted block so in theory you could pull all the pan bolts and drop it enough to disconnect the pick up tube and slide it out, but to clear you would need to drop the trans completely out and remove the flywheel or flex plate. That's a lot of work, it would be easier to drop the k member.
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1MeanZ
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What are those upgrades? Extra leaks?
Jokes aside, I've never heard or seen anything about the Gen 3 pans being upgraded in any way, other than being plastic which most thought was a bad idea, and it should be noted that the Gen 4 Coyotes went back to a steel pan. You can see in the links I posted above that it's not offered as a performance upgrade, and the Aluminator crate engine used the Gen 2 setup. So if there is some magic in the Gen 3 pan, please enlighten us.
illtal
Well-Known Member
The windage and oil control is superior to the gen 2 setup. The reason they went back to stamped steel is money. It's cheaper to produce. Also tlo your point the surfaces don't have to be perfectly flat for them to seal due to the malleable nature of a metal pan.
A performance upgrade would only be the gt500 pan which has some bell housing integration. I haven't seen one for myself but I would think since they are of the same generation the gains would be minimal at most.
I had posted the gen 3 PDF several times and the oil pan is specifically mentioned in it as an upgrade over gen 2. Gen 4 I'm not sure about and won't get into knowing about it until there is tuning available for it and I get one.
1MeanZ
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure that I agree that a metal pan is MORE malleable than a plastic pan, but that's not really the point here.
I've searched many of your posts and can find nothing of the gen 3 .pdf you mention that talks about how great the gen 3 pan is. If you could post it here that would be informative.
Paddles
Well-Known Member
It's not really a "plastic" pan, more of a composite. I'm guessing it doesn't have almost any malleability. The steel could bend but I suspect the composite is too rigid and will likely break before it bends even a little. I think he's saying Ford would have to get that gasket surface almost perfect for composite whereas they've got a little bit of play with steel.
illtal
Well-Known Member
Correct and repeated heat cycles will most certainly make it more brittle. I cannot remember if they did an oring grove there but Ford did that to the V6 Ecoboost engines to stop the composite pans from leaking.....
I'll look for it. But it was years ago... It may be posted as a sticky
HKusp
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The gen 3 does have an integrated O-ring type gasket that is replaceable. One of the theories that I have on why mine leaked was that it was from my original engine that had 47k miles on it mated to the original block and went through 1000's of heat cycles while attached to it. Then I went with a new block and in relatively short time, it began to leak. I suspect, that despite the integrated o-ring, there is some minor warping of the composite material that occurs and when you try to use it on a different block, it just doesn't seal as well. Just my thoughts, I could be completely in the wrong, but my Gen 2 conversion has yet to leak.
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