60 foot help

[PickleGT]

@PickleGT, are you using a line lock for burnouts or power braking? I’ve never tested my line lock before. Hopefully I can find a remote test spot before Thursday to try it out and do a couple of test launches.

i use the factory line lock it can be a little bit of a pain to get used to but it’s easy enough to use

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[PickleGT]

If all goes well for me and weather permitting, I’m going to take my car back to the track on Thursday. No idea what to expect, so I’m just going to hope for a pleasant surprise on the 60’, ET and MPH.

any luck?

 

[NGOT8R]

any luck?

Horrible luck at the track for me on Thursday. Couldn’t get the line lock to work, so I was unable to do a burnout and the WOT Box rpm limited me to 4500 rpm, which was not enough to get out of the hole without bogging. I shouldn’t have sent the car down the track, but I did try three times (1.9, 2.89 and 2.3 sixties). I came home and regrouped. I‘m going to find a desolate area to practice setting The line lock, burnout and launches before going back out. The track just isn’t the place for me to try and figure out my setup, with so many racers waiting behind me to get onto the track as well.

 

[PickleGT]

Horrible luck at the track for me on Thursday. Couldn’t get the line lock to work, so I was unable to do a burnout and the WOT Box rpm limited me to 4500 rpm, which was not enough to get out of the hole without bogging. I shouldn’t have sent the car down the track, but I did try three times (1.9, 2.89 and 2.3 sixties). I came home and regrouped. I‘m going to find a desolate area to practice setting The line lock, burnout and launches before going back out. The track just isn’t the place for me to try and figure out my setup, with so many racers waiting behind me to get onto the track as well.

is the burnout box flat or on a hill? ground has to be almost level and you have to press and hold the brake hard and then hit ok before you let off the brake

 

[NGOT8R]

is the burnout box flat or on a hill? ground has to be almost level and you have to press and hold the brake hard and then hit ok before you let off the brake

It‘s pretty level. In the meantime, I’m going to play with the line lock a lot more often until it becomes second nature to use it.

Unfortunately, I’m just going through some growing pains with the car right now, but I will eventually get myself and the car sorted out. Heck, I’ve put way too much time and money into the project not to get some clean runs out of the car.

 

[NGOT8R]

Update: Still not what I was hoping for tonight. As you can see, I still haven’t gotten the Hitmaster dialed in perfectly. I want to see some 1.5s or better out of this car. The weird thing is, mph was down by 9 on the big end. Very strange and will require some investigating to get to the bottom of it.

I’m going to send tonights video and time slips to Grant at Clutch Tamer and brief him on its current settings to see if he can help me get it dialed in to produce better short times. Note: You can hear the clutch slip that's programmed into the shift timer after each gear change. It seems very abnormal to me, but Grant says the car needs some slip after shifts.

Here are some videos of the burnout and 7K rpm launches. During third run, the car went into Speed Restricted to 80 mph mode, at which point the run was done. ET there was a 14.0 @ 75 mph.







Time-slips

 

[PickleGT]

@NGOT8R whats your mod list? fuel,engine,drivetrain,suspension,tire like everything

try less rpm? especially the first video so much wheel spin back end kicked out

mph seems at least 4-5 low for the et

 

[NGOT8R]

@NGOT8R whats your mod list? fuel,engine,drivetrain,suspension,tire like everything

try less rpm? especially the first video so much wheel spin back end kicked out

mph seems at least 4-5 low for the et

Mod List is as follows:

Steeda

- Subframe braces
- Diff. bushing kit with through bolt kit (black bushings)
- Subframe bushing supports
- Hardcore diff. bracket
- Subframe alignment kit
- Adj. rear camber arms
- RLCA Spherical bearings
- Adj. toe links
- Billet vertical links (delrin bushings)
- 1 piece driveshaft
- Driveshaft safety loop
- Tri-ax Race shifter
- Adj. motor mounts (set to drag race configuration)
- Idler and tensioner pulleys

Other suspension/drivetrain components

- KellTrac Ultra Spec Viking Inverted double adjustable rear shocks
- Forgestar D5 17X10 beadlock drag wheels with 305/45/17 MT ET Street Radials and 18X5 front runner with MT radials
- Ram Pro Street Twin Disc Cerametalic clutch with lightened aluminum flywheel
- Built MT82-D4 transmission with Cryo and WPC treated hard parts, carbon fiber lined synchros and a Setrab external fluid pump for cooling purposes
- Hitmaster 2 Stage Hydraulic Clutch Hit Control System (controls the amount of fluid and slip to the clutch via valving and programmable digital launch and shift timers). See link here for details on this system functions: https://grannys.tripod.com/hitmaster.html
- Ford Performance half shafts

Engine/bolt on mods

- Ultimate Headers catted long tube headers
- Steeda X-pipe
- Steeda axle back exhaust
- PMAS CAI (no tune required version)

Power adder and tuning

- Nitrous Outlet GT350 plate nitrous system (jetted for 150 hp and E85 fuel) and ProMax progressive controller
- Lund Racing tunes for 93 octane, Flex, E85 and Nitrous
- JMS Boost-a-Pump

Miscellaneous components

- N2MB WOT Box (used in conjunction with Hitmaster 2 Stage Clutch Hit Control System for recommended 7400 rpm launch, although launch rpm was set at 7000)

Note: The car makes 469 rwhp/434 rwtq naturally aspirated and 639 rwhp/602 rwtq with nitrous.

Here’s a couple of old time slips from last year when the car was still on the factory clutch and tranny, driveshaft, magneride shocks in rear and IMRCs still in place. Notice the mph compared to last night.

 

[NGOT8R]

A guy, who was there commented on on of my YT videos. He said that he saw me and that DA was horrible at 2700 and 88 degrees. He didn’t say what he normally runs with his car, but he did say he could only run an 11.7 @ 121.

 

[PickleGT]

Mod List is as follows:

Steeda

- Subframe braces
- Diff. bushing kit with through bolt kit (black bushings)
- Subframe bushing supports
- Hardcore diff. bracket
- Subframe alignment kit
- Adj. rear camber arms
- RLCA Spherical bearings
- Adj. toe links
- Billet vertical links (delrin bushings)
- 1 piece driveshaft
- Driveshaft safety loop
- Tri-ax Race shifter
- Adj. motor mounts (set to drag race configuration)
- Idler and tensioner pulleys

Other suspension/drivetrain components

- KellTrac Ultra Spec Viking Inverted double adjustable rear shocks
- Forgestar D5 17X10 beadlock drag wheels with 305/45/17 MT ET Street Radials and 18X5 front runner with MT radials
- Ram Pro Street Twin Disc Cerametalic clutch with lightened aluminum flywheel
- Built MT82-D4 transmission with Cryo and WPC treated hard parts, carbon fiber lined synchros and a Setrab external fluid pump for cooling purposes
- Hitmaster 2 Stage Hydraulic Clutch Hit Control System (controls the amount of fluid and slip to the clutch via valving and programmable digital launch and shift timers). See link here for details on this system functions: https://grannys.tripod.com/hitmaster.html
- Ford Performance half shafts

Engine/bolt on mods

- Ultimate Headers catted long tube headers
- Steeda X-pipe
- Steeda axle back exhaust
- PMAS CAI (no tune required version)

Power adder and tuning

- Nitrous Outlet GT350 plate nitrous system (jetted for 150 hp and E85 fuel) and ProMax progressive controller
- Lund Racing tunes for 93 octane, Flex, E85 and Nitrous
- JMS Boost-a-Pump

Miscellaneous components

- N2MB WOT Box (used in conjunction with Hitmaster 2 Stage Clutch Hit Control System for recommended 7400 rpm launch, although launch rpm was set at 7000)

Note: The car makes 469 rwhp/434 rwtq naturally aspirated and 639 rwhp/602 rwtq with nitrous.

Here’s a couple of old time slips from last year when the car was still on the factory clutch and tranny, driveshaft, magneride shocks in rear and IMRCs still in place. Notice the mph compared to last night.

and it’s a Bullitt correct? so basically a gt350 manifold and 87mm throttle body

so you have nitrous but don’t use or at least not until you’re comfortable with the setup and how it runs normally

are you on a et street ss or r? either way have you considered going to a bias ply tire. i’m no expert but i would think it will knock a few off that 60 time

 

[PickleGT]

A guy, who was there commented on on of my YT videos. He said that he saw me and that DA was horrible at 2700 and 88 degrees. He didn’t say what he normally runs with his car, but he did say he could only run an 11.7 @ 121.

that sound pretty identical to the weather i had last week and i was doing 11.6 @116-118

 

[NGOT8R]

and it’s a Bullitt correct? so basically a gt350 manifold and 87mm throttle body

so you have nitrous but don’t use or at least not until you’re comfortable with the setup and how it runs normally

are you on a et street ss or r? either way have you considered going to a bias ply tire. i’m no expert but i would think it will knock a few off that 60 time

Yes it’s a Bullitt, but the TB is factory 87MM that has been ported to 91MM by Soler Performance.

ET Street R tire

I’ve ram on ET Street bias plies on two previous Mustangs. That’s a good tire.
I was just trying the radial version out this time because the Hitmaster is centered around being able pull great sixties on a radial in a manual tranny car without parts breakage. I’m not opposed to running another bias ply, but would really like to see this current combination come together nicely and produce the results I’m looking for.

That’s correct, I have nitrous, but want to get the car and myself dialed in on the NA tune before I spray it, so that I’ll see a great et and mph.

 

[NGOT8R]

@PickleGT, what rear gear do you have and what rpm do you shift at? Do you have a different shift point for each gear or stick with one throughout the run? Were you trapping in 3rd or 4th when you ran the 11.6 et?

 

[PickleGT]

@PickleGT, what rear gear do you have and what rpm do you shift at? Do you have a different shift point for each gear or stick with one throughout the run? Were you trapping in 3rd or 4th when you ran the 11.6 et?

3.31 rear end shifting between 7500-7800 and running out 3rd gear to just over 8000, was going to trying hitting shifts 7500-7600 tonight and also shifting to 4th to see if that helps or hurts

 

[NGOT8R]

3.31 rear end shifting between 7500-7800 and running out 3rd gear to just over 8000, was going to trying hitting shifts 7500-7600 tonight and also shifting to 4th to see if that helps or hurts

Can you please video your runs if possible?

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