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Your list has the 2-point Gtrac brace, and since that doesn't triangulate it's probably not doing much. Either go with the full 4-point brace from Steeda or the BMR CB006. The Steeda is easier to install, but you will lose about 3/4 of an inch ground clearance.

I did the Steeda 4-point and it made a huge difference. Everything after that was diminishing returns (strut tower, then inner cowl), but that *may* be because the Steeda brace was first. I will swap mine for the BMR when I do control arms and springs in a couple months, but only because I want to maintain the ground clearance.
I debated between the 2-point and 4-point braces. I choose the 2-point in case I wanted to do long tube headers in the future. I may not end up going that route, so the 4-point brace may be back in play.
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100% get your alignment checked and dial a small amount of toe out. Chances are you’ve got some toe in. Toe out (or even zero toe) should remove the dead spot.

if you’re lowered more than about 3/4” in the front (and IIRC the progressives are then you’ll want the steeda geometry correcting control arms and bumpsteer kit. That has an impact on steering feel in a lowered GT. I drove a nicely modified S197 which was lowered and didn't have anything to fix the geometry and could not figure out why it would barely steer when I turned the wheel.

Shocks after that. Stock shocks are pretty weak.

aftrr that I’d look to camber plates and more front camber.

Additiona braces would absolutely be the last thing I’d do (and aglignment is #1)
 
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100% get your alignment checked and dial a small amount of toe out. Chances are you’ve got some toe in. Toe out (or even zero toe) should remove the dead spot.

if you’re lowered more than about 3/4” in the front (and IIRC the progressives are then you’ll want the steeda geometry correcting control arms and bumpsteer kit. That has an impact on steering feel in a lowered GT. I drove a nicely modified S197 which was lowered and didn't have anything to fix the geometry and could not figure out why it would barely steer when I turned the wheel.

Shocks after that. Stock shocks are pretty weak.

aftrr that I’d look to camber plates and more front camber.

Additiona braces would absolutely be the last thing I’d do (and aglignment is #1)
How much toe out should I have them add?
 

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How much toe out should I have them add?
just a little, mainly we want to get rid of any toe in, so ask for maybe (correction) 0.06 out each side.
 
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Thank you so much for the link...I bought my 2016 convertible with OEM 20"wheels in september and I guess should check underneath before I order a K-brace or a cowl extension panel.
 

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The other thing I saw mentioned was installing a roll center/bump steer kit.
The Steeda roll-center/bumpsteer kit was the single best item to improve steering feel and turn-in on my lowered GT PP. Get it for sure, either with the stiffer bushings or bearings.

———
The following were also huge helps:

Good struts and shocks; the Bilsteins sing for handling.

Stiffer anti-roll bars (looks like you’re good there).

Slightly stretched Michelin MPS4S tires at 32psi front, 35 rear make turn-in immediate. (You’re good with the Contis—just play with the pressures a bit).

An alignment dialed-in to the suggested zero toe or slight toe-out for the fronts.
———

I’m toying with replacing the front hubs with 18+ magnaride bits; I hear they are lighter weight (aluminum?) and should retrofit well. I bet the lighter weight will transfer more of the road to the steering wheel.

— Mike
 
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The Steeda roll-center/bumpsteer kit was the single best item to improve steering feel and turn-in on my lowered GT PP. Get it for sure, either with the stiffer bushings or bearings.

———
The following were also huge helps:

Good struts and shocks; the Bilsteins sing for handling.

Stiffer anti-roll bars (looks like you’re good there).

Slightly stretched Michelin MPS4S tires at 32psi front, 35 rear make turn-in immediate. (You’re good with the Contis—just play with the pressures a bit).

An alignment dialed-in to the suggested zero toe or slight toe-out for the fronts.
———

I’m toying with replacing the front hubs with 18+ magnaride bits; I hear they are lighter weight (aluminum?) and should retrofit well. I bet the lighter weight will transfer more of the road to the steering wheel.

— Mike
Based on the responses I am seeing, my plan is to get that Steeda kit and then an alignment with the slight toe-out.

Best Regards,

Scott
 

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Please update us on when you do! Would be interested in hearing your thoughts
 

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Update. I installed the bump steer and roll center kit last night and hand an alignment completed today with the 0.06 toe out. While the turn in had definitely improved, one issue still remains….slow to react coming off of center. I am wondering if the only fix at this point would be a different steering rack which I am not sure is realistic considering EPAS, etc. It looks like I was spoiled by the GT350 and Guilia Quadifoglio.
 

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Which tires did you have on the 350?
I have a 17 pp1 modified for track duty and I have also driven a couple 350R and there is not much difference if any at all regarding coming off center
Tires do make a huge difference, tire profile, thread design,etc
If I was you I would buy, to keep cost down, 2 used tires such as cup2 or nt01, and mount them in the front and experiment with them
I bet that the slowness would be gone
 

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Which tires did you have on the 350?
I have a 17 pp1 modified for track duty and I have also driven a couple 350R and there is not much difference if any at all regarding coming off center
Tires do make a huge difference, tire profile, thread design,etc
If I was you I would buy, to keep cost down, 2 used tires such as cup2 or nt01, and mount them in the front and experiment with them
I bet that the slowness would be gone
He said tires were conti ECS.

My GT carves just as well as any GT350 too. (I’ve been in a few and have driven one in anger). I believe the steering racks on the GT and 350 are both 16:1, so I don’t think thats it.

After swaybar and alignment…

Stiffer shocks, stiffer linear springs, stiff sidewalled tires (faster weight transfer), more front camber (turnin grip), driver seating position (leverage and control)…

You be surprised what a cluster F steering can be if the driver is reclined way back from the wheel or leaned forward away from the seat hanging on for dear life.

Anyway I’d go drive a GT350 again to make sure you’re remembering it right. I didn’t notice a difference in steering feel compared to a mostly stock GT on great tires and with stiff shocks/springs
 

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He said tires were conti ECS.

My GT carves just as well as any GT350 too. (I’ve been in a few and have driven one in anger). I believe the steering racks on the GT and 350 are both 16:1, so I don’t think thats it.

After swaybar and alignment…

Stiffer shocks, stiffer linear springs, stiff sidewalled tires (faster weight transfer), more front camber (turnin grip), driver seating position (leverage and control)…

You be surprised what a cluster F steering can be if the driver is reclined way back from the wheel or leaned forward away from the seat hanging on for dear life.

Anyway I’d go drive a GT350 again to make sure you’re remembering it right. I didn’t notice a difference in steering feel compared to a mostly stock GT on great tires and with stiff shocks/springs
Agree
The tire question was regarding the 350, not his current gt
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