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2018 GT PP2 Rear Differential Overheating Issue

1958cyclist

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I do not see how a temp switch works because the temp switch measures oil sitting outside the diff usually inline on the way to the cooler. That oil isn't going to be an acurate temp. That's how most Tstats are wired in like champracer bove. If the Tstat is on the case then triggers the pump OK. That will work. I also do not think you can run the diff too cool on track. So if you just switched the diff pump on after the warmup laps I'm sure you would be fine and not need another failure point the Tstat. AS a racer I want stupid simple minimal failures. If the cooler is for a streetcar only you really don't need the cooler.
Primarily use the car for the street and 30 minute or less track sessions currently, but would like to begin running longer events. Based on what I've read here and in other blogs, environmental conditions not withstanding, 20 to 30 minute sessions seems to be the limit before overheating issues begin.
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1958cyclist

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I put on a lot of Heatshield on my exhaust pipes all around the differential cover and still had overheating issues at Buttonwillow. I recently ordered this finned differential cover and now waiting for Santa to deliver. I plan on using Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-140 and some Motorkote. I would also like to test the oil that comes out of the diff.

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Would enjoy hearing how it works, and who the manufacturer is/are.
 

EFI

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I put on a lot of Heatshield on my exhaust pipes all around the differential cover and still had overheating issues at Buttonwillow. I recently ordered this finned differential cover and now waiting for Santa to deliver. I plan on using Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-140 and some Motorkote. I would also like to test the oil that comes out of the diff.

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What cover is this?
 

mustang5o

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I put on a lot of Heatshield on my exhaust pipes all around the differential cover and still had overheating issues at Buttonwillow. I recently ordered this finned differential cover and now waiting for Santa to deliver. I plan on using Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-140 and some Motorkote. I would also like to test the oil that comes out of the diff.
Please share the ordering info.
 

NeverSatisfied

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Have you begun to resolve that issue yet? Did you go the remote oil cooler route or larger radiator, or both?
I found it took diff cooler, big radiator, radiator ducting, hood vents, and a remote oil cooler, and the trans air scoop to keep my PP2 cool for 20 minute sessions at 9-9.5/10ths pace.

Mechanical grip from a PP2 makes for more time with the skinny pedal on the wood than an average GT. Generates lots of heat.
 

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1958cyclist

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I found it took diff cooler, big radiator, radiator ducting, hood vents, and a remote oil cooler, and the trans air scoop to keep my PP2 cool for 20 minute sessions at 9-9.5/10ths pace.

Mechanical grip from a PP2 makes for more time with the skinny pedal on the wood than an average GT. Generates lots of heat.
Matt, I added 19" x 11" wheels to my PP1, with 305/30/19's square and haven't noticed much of a difference from the 255/40 fronts and 275/40 rears it came with. The sessions I've run have been outside temps of low 80 to high 80's. Maybe this made a difference? Hoods with greater heat exhaust capacity seemed to have received good reviews elsewhere also. Difficult to gage pacing, but I'd say something less than you're turning...still a nube! Are you running at Pitt Race?
 

NeverSatisfied

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Matt, I added 19" x 11" wheels to my PP1, with 305/30/19's square and haven't noticed much of a difference from the 255/40 fronts and 275/40 rears it came with. The sessions I've run have been outside temps of low 80 to high 80's. Maybe this made a difference? Hoods with greater heat exhaust capacity seemed to have received good reviews elsewhere also. Difficult to gage pacing, but I'd say something less than you're turning...still a nube! Are you running at Pitt Race?
These are subjective %’s. but I’m betting I’m pretty close...

No diff cooler I had about 5-8 minutes before limp mode.

A diff cooler alone let me lap the car at about 75-80% of its capability for 20 min no problem. Push past that to 85-90% and 8-10 minutes before oil temp derate and cht 245+

big radiator and vents let me push the car to 85%-90%. I could get to 20 minute sessions but I was still short shifting at ~6k rpm to keep it cool. I could sneak 1 x 95%+ lap in there when a well driven GT350 would pass me and I’d try to hang, but would have to back off after a couple minutes.

Final solution for me was separating the oil cooling.... 95% for 20 minutes.
After that I was limited by overheating the 200TW tires.

I found as you push the car higher into its max capacity like 90%+ the heat generated goes up at more of an exponential rate than a linear one.

.. I’m about 30 min from PittRace try to get there as often as I can!
 

1958cyclist

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These are subjective %’s. but I’m betting I’m pretty close...

No diff cooler I had about 5-8 minutes before limp mode.

A diff cooler alone let me lap the car at about 75-80% of its capability for 20 min no problem. Push past that to 85-90% and 8-10 minutes before oil temp derate and cht 245+

big radiator and vents let me push the car to 85%-90%. I could get to 20 minute sessions but I was still short shifting at ~6k rpm to keep it cool. I could sneak 1 x 95%+ lap in there when a well driven GT350 would pass me and I’d try to hang, but would have to back off after a couple minutes.

Final solution for me was separating the oil cooling.... 95% for 20 minutes.
After that I was limited by overheating the 200TW tires.

I found as you push the car higher into its max capacity like 90%+ the heat generated goes up at more of an exponential rate than a linear one.

.. I’m about 30 min from PittRace try to get there as often as I can!
Thanks for the run down. As I become increasingly more confident in my abilities, I'm sure I'll be pushing the car harder, which will no doubt bring me up to the same limitations that you're currently experiencing. It would be interesting to uncover just how much difference a "similarly" equipped GT 350 or GT 350R performs from a temperature standpoint in similar conditions.

We have a few folks in our club with both, and from my observations so far, (we do a couple events at Pitt Race as a club), it would be hard to compare. The sessions are about 20 minutes per, and the skill level of most of our group with the exception of one gent are about the same at this point, although his lap times wouldn't indicate by much.

I assumed, maybe somewhat naively, that one could add/modify a PP1 or PP2 to perform from in a similar way to a GT 350R by adding all the additional/remote cooling accessories...maybe not?
 
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fatbillybob

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I assumed, maybe somewhat naively, that one could add/modify a PP1 or PP2 to perform from in a similar way to a GT 350R by adding all the additional/remote cooling accessories...maybe not?
Bottom line is on GT's that see the track is "no coolers = no joy." If OE is ok for you then you are not driving fast enough. You need tranny, oil and diff coolers and any OEM coolers are too small. In fact the OEM coolers are a joke put there to impress you to buy the car.
 

NeverSatisfied

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I assumed, maybe somewhat naively, that one could add/modify a PP1 or PP2 to perform from in a similar way to a GT 350R by adding all the additional/remote cooling accessories...maybe not?
Advantage is you can add cooling in stages as you advance/find limit.

With cooling only, I found the PP2 is just a bit off the pace of a well driven GT350.

Start adding I/H/E, corn, tune, etc trying to match a gt350 and you’re getting a little too close to the purchase price of one.
 

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luc

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These are subjective %’s. but I’m betting I’m pretty close...

No diff cooler I had about 5-8 minutes before limp mode.

A diff cooler alone let me lap the car at about 75-80% of its capability for 20 min no problem. Push past that to 85-90% and 8-10 minutes before oil temp derate and cht 245+

big radiator and vents let me push the car to 85%-90%. I could get to 20 minute sessions but I was still short shifting at ~6k rpm to keep it cool. I could sneak 1 x 95%+ lap in there when a well driven GT350 would pass me and I’d try to hang, but would have to back off after a couple minutes.

Final solution for me was separating the oil cooling.... 95% for 20 minutes.
After that I was limited by overheating the 200TW tires.

I found as you push the car higher into its max capacity like 90%+ the heat generated goes up at more of an exponential rate than a linear one.

.. I’m about 30 min from PittRace try to get there as often as I can!
Which oil cooler are you using?
And where did you put it... in front of the radiator... or ?
I just installed a Harrop oil cooler kit and will test it next week at Laguna.
They use a Setrab cooler that fit flat/parallel to the ground
Neat design
https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/engine-oil-cooler-ford-mustang-gt
 

1958cyclist

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Bottom line is on GT's that see the track is "no coolers = no joy." If OE is ok for you then you are not driving fast enough. You need tranny, oil and diff coolers and any OEM coolers are too small. In fact the OEM coolers are a joke put there to impress you to buy the car.
As mentioned in a prior, related thread, I'm a bonified novice, so the car currently is much better than the driver. That's why I'm developing a plan to adapt the car as I develop my skills.
 

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As mentioned in a prior, related thread, I'm a bonified novice, so the car currently is much better than the driver. That's why I'm developing a plan to adapt the car as I develop my skills.
Sure but you want to be careful and cost effective. When you get your 1st diff warning it will be sudden. If that happens on friday of a 3 day event you just wasted maybe $400 bucks because now you have to drive slow. If you over heat your motor you can cause damage. Flyhalf believes that his 1st tranny grenaded because it was overheated. These can be costly mistakes. People complain that these cars will derate when overheated but that is actually a good thing. The derate gives us a chance to develop the car for our use hopefully without costly damage..
 

NeverSatisfied

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Which oil cooler are you using?
And where did you put it... in front of the radiator... or ?
I just installed a Harrop oil cooler kit and will test it next week at Laguna.
They use a Setrab cooler that fit flat/parallel to the ground
Neat design
https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/engine-oil-cooler-ford-mustang-gt
That’s a “Baller” kit right there. I just used a Mishimoto front mount and it kept temps stable for me.

But I run 200TW shoes. I found the car was tire limited after all my cooling upgrades where I could drive 20 min at 90-95% pace. 1 or 2 mid session laps of pouring on the coals on the RS4’s and I’d have to let them cool down.

race rubber probably opens up another can of worms on the cooling capacity.
 

luc

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That’s a “Baller” kit right there. I just used a Mishimoto front mount and it kept temps stable for me.

But I run 200TW shoes. I found the car was tire limited after all my cooling upgrades where I could drive 20 min at 90-95% pace. 1 or 2 mid session laps of pouring on the coals on the RS4’s and I’d have to let them cool down.

race rubber probably opens up another can of worms on the cooling capacity.
I do run nt01
When you mention that it keep the oil temp stable, how do you measure the temperature, using the in dash or gt350/pp1 additional gauges or do you added another sensor and gauge?
And also what type of temperature are you seeing?
Thanks
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