2018 GT low rpm engine rattle, cylinder damage pics, Ford buyback process

[Redmoe]

Were these actual score lines or glazing? Just wondering if you were able to run a finger nail over then?

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[Retroman1969]

My 2019 Bullitt sounds quiet at idle and cruising, but it had a faint clatter at 2000 rpm in 2nd or 3rd gear under light acceleration that I started noticing around 300 miles in.
Now with 1300 miles it’s quickly getting more prominent.
Cold or warm (a bit worse cold), 1500-3500 rpm in any gear at any speed, as long as its under light to moderate acceleration between 1500-3500 rpm.
I’m really crestfallen and disappointed. I was so excited about bringing this car home and it sounded so great.
The earliest the dealer can get to it is Thurs, so I have an appointment. I asked for a boroscope inspection.

The oil is still full and clear.
I followed all the break-in procedures and didn’t modify or abuse it in any way. Even now after break-in, I rarely go over 3,500 rpms and have never had it over 5,000rpms.

I’ll post what the dealer’s shop turns up.
Right now I’m not sure what to do. Clearly from the reports a replacement engine will be pointless. A buyback will probably come at a slight monetary loss and after trading in my Mercedes and Porsche for this thing I’d just be left with my work beater car. Camaros and Challengers don’t really do it for me as replacements. Maybe another slightly used Porsche Cayman or something, I don’t know.
Hopefully the shop will turn up noninternal damage.... but the noise is still disconcerting.

 

[Redmoe]

My 2019 Bullitt sounds quiet at idle and cruising, but it had a faint clatter at 2000 rpm in 2nd or 3rd gear under light acceleration that I started noticing around 300 miles in.
Now with 1300 miles it’s quickly getting more prominent.
Cold or warm (a bit worse cold), 1500-3500 rpm in any gear at any speed, as long as its under light to moderate acceleration between 1500-3500 rpm.
I’m really crestfallen and disappointed. I was so excited about bringing this car home and it sounded so great.
The earliest the dealer can get to it is Thurs, so I have an appointment. I asked for a boroscope inspection.

The oil is still full and clear.
I followed all the break-in procedures and didn’t modify or abuse it in any way. Even now after break-in, I rarely go over 3,500 rpms and have never had it over 5,000rpms.

I’ll post what the dealer’s shop turns up.
Right now I’m not sure what to do. Clearly from the reports a replacement engine will be pointless. A buyback will probably come at a slight monetary loss and after trading in my Mercedes and Porsche for this thing I’d just be left with my work beater car. Camaros and Challengers don’t really do it for me as replacements. Maybe another slightly used Porsche Cayman or something, I don’t know.
Hopefully the shop will turn up noninternal damage.... but the noise is still disconcerting.

Good luck, it will be interesting to see what they come back with. Obviously the poll in this thread is a small sample base compared to the total number of cars sold but ~60% with the issue is pretty significant. I wonder how many of the ~40% that don’t have it actually have a very mid case? With the radio a low volume I don’t even notice the rattling.

It would be real nice for Ford to address this in some way rather than ignoring it. With social media attention there is no way they are not aware of the concern within customer community.

 

[Andy13186]

Good luck, it will be interesting to see what they come back with. Obviously the poll in this thread is a small sample base compared to the total number of cars sold but ~60% with the issue is pretty significant. I wonder how many of the ~40% that don’t have it actually have a very mid case? With the radio a low volume I don’t even notice the rattling.

It would be real nice for Ford to address this in some way rather than ignoring it. With social media attention there is no way they are not aware of the concern within customer community.

I bet alot of people who dont think they have the rattle are auto owners who dont paddle shift. To replicate the noise in an auto you need to have shifter in S position and paddles activated, light throttle up through 2k-2500 rpm very slowly. It doesnt even make the noise at all in drive because you need more throttle position to get above 2k rpm and it doesnt make the noise much with any more than like 10% throttle.

 

[Schwerin]

I bet alot of people who dont think they have the rattle are auto owners who dont paddle shift. To replicate the noise in an auto you need to have shifter in S position and paddles activated, light throttle up through 2k-2500 rpm very slowly. It doesnt even make the noise at all in drive because you need more throttle position to get above 2k rpm and it doesnt make the noise much with any more than like 10% throttle.

Probably a bunch of people that have no idea about cars have it also and just never notice it because they don't pay attention. I've seen people not even know that they had screeching belts for some reason. As if the sudden high pitched sound of their locked up alternator pulley was normal. People are flat out stupid.

 

[Rash]

Mine rattles is S without paddle shifting. It also rattles in D when cold because for some reason it will hold 1st until about 2500 rpm the first couple times after cold start.

 

[krishelnino]

My 2019 Bullitt sounds quiet at idle and cruising, but it had a faint clatter at 2000 rpm in 2nd or 3rd gear under light acceleration that I started noticing around 300 miles in.
Now with 1300 miles it’s quickly getting more prominent.
Cold or warm (a bit worse cold), 1500-3500 rpm in any gear at any speed, as long as its under light to moderate acceleration between 1500-3500 rpm.
I’m really crestfallen and disappointed. I was so excited about bringing this car home and it sounded so great.
The earliest the dealer can get to it is Thurs, so I have an appointment. I asked for a boroscope inspection.

The oil is still full and clear.
I followed all the break-in procedures and didn’t modify or abuse it in any way. Even now after break-in, I rarely go over 3,500 rpms and have never had it over 5,000rpms.

I’ll post what the dealer’s shop turns up.
Right now I’m not sure what to do. Clearly from the reports a replacement engine will be pointless. A buyback will probably come at a slight monetary loss and after trading in my Mercedes and Porsche for this thing I’d just be left with my work beater car. Camaros and Challengers don’t really do it for me as replacements. Maybe another slightly used Porsche Cayman or something, I don’t know.
Hopefully the shop will turn up noninternal damage.... but the noise is still disconcerting.

Let us know how it goes. You described it perfectly and i can relate this to the experience with my car. My break in period and driving style is similar to yours. I didn't notice it for the first few thousand miles or atleast it wasn't audible enough that i didn't care. It started becoming obvious after 3000 miles or so and I pointed this out to the service advisor at 1st oil change 4600 miles in, to which he said it was normal and didn't document the issue. I thought back then this might be a inherent characteristic of the new Gen 3 Coyote engine. This was like 4 months ago, and i haven't had the time to take it back again. I'm at the 10k mile mark now and the rattle is starting to bother me a lot now, it's even noticeable while cruising around 70-80 with radio off and i give a mild throttle input to overtake other cars. It won't be until atleast March before i take it back to a dealer to get it looked at. A buyback is pointless for me as i've already invested a lot into the car, so i can only hope fingers crossed that Ford finds a fix for the issue, if there is any.

 

[Condor1970]

Probably a bunch of people that have no idea about cars have it also and just never notice it because they don't pay attention. I've seen people not even know that they had screeching belts for some reason. As if the sudden high pitched sound of their locked up alternator pulley was normal. People are flat out stupid.

I always wanted to be a golf club.

 

[Nanashii]

My 2019 Bullitt sounds quiet at idle and cruising, but it had a faint clatter at 2000 rpm in 2nd or 3rd gear under light acceleration that I started noticing around 300 miles in.
Now with 1300 miles it’s quickly getting more prominent.
Cold or warm (a bit worse cold), 1500-3500 rpm in any gear at any speed, as long as its under light to moderate acceleration between 1500-3500 rpm.
I’m really crestfallen and disappointed. I was so excited about bringing this car home and it sounded so great.
The earliest the dealer can get to it is Thurs, so I have an appointment. I asked for a boroscope inspection.

The oil is still full and clear.
I followed all the break-in procedures and didn’t modify or abuse it in any way. Even now after break-in, I rarely go over 3,500 rpms and have never had it over 5,000rpms.

I’ll post what the dealer’s shop turns up.
Right now I’m not sure what to do. Clearly from the reports a replacement engine will be pointless. A buyback will probably come at a slight monetary loss and after trading in my Mercedes and Porsche for this thing I’d just be left with my work beater car. Camaros and Challengers don’t really do it for me as replacements. Maybe another slightly used Porsche Cayman or something, I don’t know.
Hopefully the shop will turn up noninternal damage.... but the noise is still disconcerting.

Good luck! My rattle got progressively worse during the first 6000 miles. I have 1200 miles on the replacement long block and the rattle is just as bad as the original engine. I am 99% sure that everyone on this forum who has the rattle AND had their cylinders inspected, found scoring on the walls.

Make sure to do a road test with someone from the service department, so they can hear the rattle and properly document it. Even if they don't borescope the cylinders, don't leave without a service ticket documenting the rattle. That'll be very helpful if you end up pursuing a buyback down the road.

First Bullitt owner I've seen admit to this problem. My advice is pray for a new engine and that you'll go over 30 days in the shop so you can lemon law buy back it. Once you do your first oil change you have a high chance of getting the typewriter tick also.

There are a number of owners in the Bullitt forum who confirmed they have the rattle and/or the tick. They have a separate thread on Bullitt engine noises.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/any-bullitt-engine-ticks.114648/ View attachment 331240

 

[UAmach1]

At the dealer right now. Even just checking the car in the lady is giving me the rundown about it being a "normal characteristic of the 5.0"

I'm sure by now they are getting a lot of complaints about ticking in general so feel they have to say that.

 

[Retroman1969]

Alright completed check in and spoke with the head mechanic who will be looking at my car. He said he will do a boroscope. Also I showed him my original oil filter and he agreed that there are a lot of flakes especially copper colored ones even for a new engine. He said he may drop the oil pan also and check the rod bearings for abnormal wear.

I’ll be curious to see what they find and say.
Thanks for the updates!

 

[Nanashii]

Alright completed check in and spoke with the head mechanic who will be looking at my car. He said he will do a boroscope. Also I showed him my original oil filter and he agreed that there are a lot of flakes especially copper colored ones even for a new engine. He said he may drop the oil pan also and check the rod bearings for abnormal wear.

That's progress! Hopefully you are able to lemon it.

 

[GT Pony]

Alright completed check in and spoke with the head mechanic who will be looking at my car. He said he will do a boroscope. Also I showed him my original oil filter and he agreed that there are a lot of flakes especially copper colored ones even for a new engine. He said he may drop the oil pan also and check the rod bearings for abnormal wear.

There should be no copper particles in any kind of normal break-in. Or even on an engine with 200K miles.

Smoked bearings.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/pp2-down-for-the-count.114796/page-2#post-2428118

 

[UAmach1]

Alright completed check in and spoke with the head mechanic who will be looking at my car. He said he will do a boroscope. Also I showed him my original oil filter and he agreed that there are a lot of flakes especially copper colored ones even for a new engine. He said he may drop the oil pan also and check the rod bearings for abnormal wear.

If you can, see if they will send you photos of everything they find.

 

[choate]

Back in the day the Ford Customer service reps used to reply and be available on forums. They likely all quit lol. My car has a fast ticking/rattling when I am leaving my neighborhood under light throttle from about 2000-3000 till it shifts under light acceleration. I honestly think it’s fine. Car runs great. It’s an 18 GT A10. Seems to not be as loud once it warms up but it still does it. No noises at idle or any other noticeable RPM. Bought used with 12k miles. No oil consumption but don’t run it hard but I have lit it up a few times. She runs strong for sure. I have a 100k extended warranty bc I was worried too

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