2018 10R80 Dipstick

[Snakebyte]

Thanks very helpful. I decided before I put my dipstick and plug back in my A10 i would take some measurements and make a quick rough shop drawing.... I am including it here, maybe it helps, but no harm in posting it.

Decided to run all dimensions off the seating flange where the sealing ring is on the factory aluminum cap/plug ...... The photo is sort of self explanatory with the plug and dipstick in the photo over the drawing....

Awesome...I was waiting until I got mine out to cut mine to length.

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[Snakebyte]

Okay you all. How bad can things get? I'm finding out. It took a lot of work to get the new hose I fabricated installed. The biggest initial challenge was that the hose was under stress trying to make a curve right at the transmission fitting. (As you know, fittings must be aligned straight to engage threads)

But...that was only my initial challenge. Things looked awesome until I attempted to pull the dipstick out, Apparently there's a defect about midway in my hose that the dipstick snagged and bound on. Once the dipstick was out, it would never feed back in.

So I have a new hose on order to replace the defective one...Of course I cannot reuse the ferrules so I have to get replacement fitting ends as well. Fittings are to be delivered tomorrow, and the hose, Saturday.

So be patient...I'm trying to be patient myself. Hopefully by Saturday evening I'll be up and running.

Edit: Okay, the defect was not the hose but the installer. Trying to follow the contour between the transmission and the upper fitting/mount, I apparently twisted the hose too much. The PTFE tub inside twisted and basically collapsed. I'll have to watch that more closely when I receive/install my new hose.

 

[cjatrains]

Okay you all. How bad can things get? I'm finding out. It took a lot of work to get the new hose I fabricated installed. The biggest initial challenge was that the hose was under stress trying to make a curve right at the transmission fitting. (As you know, fittings must be aligned straight to engage threads)

But...that was only my initial challenge. Things looked awesome until I attempted to pull the dipstick out, Apparently there's a defect about midway in my hose that the dipstick snagged and bound on. Once the dipstick was out, it would never feed back in.

So I have a new hose on order to replace the defective one...Of course I cannot reuse the ferrules so I have to get replacement fitting ends as well. Fittings are to be delivered tomorrow, and the hose, Saturday.

So be patient...I'm trying to be patient myself. Hopefully by Saturday evening I'll be up and running.

Edit: Okay, the defect was not the hose but the installer. Trying to follow the contour between the transmission and the upper fitting/mount, I apparently twisted the hose too much. The PTFE tub inside twisted and basically collapsed. I'll have to watch that more closely when I receive/install my new hose.

Really appreciate you sharing the progress reports, but very sorry to hear about the problems.

Out of curiositiy are the threads and fitting of the OEM aluminum cap that covers the dipstick AN-ORB ? And the follow up question of course is are you essentially trying to fab the new tube with AN line, like AN-8?

I hear you on the patience message..... I wasted almost an entire week trying to make some modifications in preparation for the install of a 70 mm thick Track Spec radiator that didn't have welded bungs on it to accomdate the 10R80 heat exchanger that lives between the condenser and the factory radiator.... Got it all done, but should have waited for the radiator to arrive. I didn't get a full allocation of the "patience gene" !!!

In light of what you're going through, and the fact that you mentioned the 22000 eBay knock off Tube is about 12 MM too long, I am almost starting to think of a different way to shorten that tube. If I am hearing you right, we need the actual dipstick on the new 22000 assembly to protrude 12 additional MM from the end of the fitting when the top is screwed down.

My initial thought is to leave the swedged ends alone, and try to make as clean a cut as possible maybe 3-4 inches from the top end, and then put a sleeve over the splice with some real heavy duty 1/2 inch ID hose and clamp the crap out of it on both sides of the splice. I figure that close to the top end of the tube and within a few inches of the aluminum fitting, I shouldn't have any issues creating a catch point.... Should be easy to sneak the dipstick past this splice, both going in and coming out, if it's in the first 6 inches. Then at least the rest of the tube all the way down to the tranny input will be original without alteration/modification.

 

[Brokestang]

I also want to say thanks for all the details and measurements etc.

Just so that I am clear, all these measurements are with the eBay 22000 knock off model without any Modifiations, correct ?

Not to beat a dead horse, but this set up sucks, the most critical measurement is when everything is scalding F....ing Hot !

Like you I measured numerous times with just the plastic dipstick and my very long bent nose needle nose pliers. One thing I noticed and it's really hard to avoid is if the dip stick touches the threads on bore of the hole, then subsequent readings take an extra measure of care and inspection to not confuse the actual fluid level with residual fluid getting on the stick.

Also I had to add 3/4 quart while everything was running as I wanted to be closer to the 4 marker, than the 5 marker.

I have my car up on the 7000 lb. Quik Jacks , so I can go in an out on a creeper but it's not user friendly at all.

It's really clear to me that my car was one of the many that was low from the factory. Just did a count and I added almost 9 quarts. I collected exactly 7.25 quarts after the procedure, I had one minor spill letting the pan down to the floor think it was completely empty, and I let the whole thing sit open without the filter & pan overnight so some more ATF kept slowly dripping out, but that was minimal. I have to believe I ran the first 12,000 miles down at least 1.25 to 1.5 quarts. Thanks Ford, really special

Only good news, is got less than I expected in the way of fine metallic powder on my magnet although when I finally tipped the pan up 90 degrees to let it drain before wiping and cleaning it, there was what looked like traces of silver paint in the last fluid to come out. I am assuming this was aluminum or some other non ferrous metal.....

Yes it was the eBay model. No modifications. Hardest part was getting the hose started on the fitting that screws into the transmission.

 

[Snakebyte]

Really appreciate you sharing the progress reports, but very sorry to hear about the problems.

Out of curiositiy are the threads and fitting of the OEM aluminum cap that covers the dipstick AN-ORB ? And the follow up question of course is are you essentially trying to fab the new tube with AN line, like AN-8?

I hear you on the patience message..... I wasted almost an entire week trying to make some modifications in preparation for the install of a 70 mm thick Track Spec radiator that didn't have welded bungs on it to accomdate the 10R80 heat exchanger that lives between the condenser and the factory radiator.... Got it all done, but should have waited for the radiator to arrive. I didn't get a full allocation of the "patience gene" !!!

In light of what you're going through, and the fact that you mentioned the 22000 eBay knock off Tube is about 12 MM too long, I am almost starting to think of a different way to shorten that tube. If I am hearing you right, we need the actual dipstick on the new 22000 assembly to protrude 12 additional MM from the end of the fitting when the top is screwed down.

My initial thought is to leave the swedged ends alone, and try to make as clean a cut as possible maybe 3-4 inches from the top end, and then put a sleeve over the splice with some real heavy duty 1/2 inch ID hose and clamp the crap out of it on both sides of the splice. I figure that close to the top end of the tube and within a few inches of the aluminum fitting, I shouldn't have any issues creating a catch point.... Should be easy to sneak the dipstick past this splice, both going in and coming out, if it's in the first 6 inches. Then at least the rest of the tube all the way down to the tranny input will be original without alteration/modification.

You bring up some good points.

As far as the fittings, they indeed are AN8's. I'm not sure of what other threads the eBay assembly might have had.

As far as the dipstick protruding 12mm less than it needs to be...I would only know if the fluid level was high or too high. That is a problem in my mind because one of the reasons for a dipstick is to know if the level is too low.

After I finish my installation (hopefully Saturday) I was going to try modifying the eBay sleeved hose, using a method similar to what you propose, and share with the group what I learn. I believe I can carefully cut a compression relief with my Dremel Abrasive wheel, without damaging the stainless braid material.

I found that using a 10-inch long 3/8 inch wobble square drive extension from underneath the car, attached to a 19mm crowfoot worked great for breaking the cap free enough to hand-unthread the OEM plug/dipstick.

I purchased a flare 19mm crowfoot flare set from Harbor Freight, but in hindsight that was a waste of money. I ended up making a trip back to Harbor Freight for a non-flare crowfoot set, because the flare set does not slip over top of the AN8 hose fittings. So don't waste money on a flare crowfoot set.

Hope some of this info helps. As much as a total pain today was, I feel like I now have a grasp on how to perform attempt #2. And actually, I count it a plus that I'm able to share with others who are disappointed with Ford's cost saving measure.

BTW...A BIG thanks to you, @cjatrains, for the photograph with dimensions. I no longer need to heat the engine/transmission up to correlate my new dipstick to the OEM dipstick. I actually filed the black coating off my dipstick to know where the "good" range is. See pic.

 

[cjatrains]

@Snakebyte - REally glad the rough drawing/photo helped. Took me a day or two to work that out in my mind..... I didn't care for all the videos and people saying they'll mark the new dipstick based on knowing or assuming they have the right fluid level... Then the light bulb finally went on when I brought the cap and dipstick to my desk this morning. Just pick a common known "0" reference (register) point that is the same for both plug/dipstick assemblies, and then run all the dimensions off that, duh !!! I just want marks for 4 & 5, and maybe a thin line where 6 is so if I drop the pan and change a filter again, I can make sure I am close to line 6 before going out for a warm up drive.

Once I get back from 2 days driving around Watkins Glen Int'l, I'll make a decision about which one of these I am going to purchase, although I may wait till end of season track days in October go by before I tear into it.

Thanks for the answers regarding the AN threads, hardware lines etc. I really want to try and make it work with the original eBay kit if I can figure out how to remove 12-13 mm or whatever from the tube. I'll be curious to see how your cutting test goes. I was thinking about applying a thin coat of Super glue Gel, then a real tight wrap with electrical tape to hold the braiding together then cutting with the Dremel tool and abrasive wheel like you suggested.

 

[Snakebyte]

Good news! After removing my modified dipstick hose I learned that my main issues were related to the retrofit hose and fittings purchased off Amazon. The retrofit hose I purchased was much stiffer than the one supplied with the eBay dipstick. The second significant issue was that the retrofit fittings I purchase do not spin/swivel when tightening, therefore, the hose was spinning close to the transmission, but not up the firewall. As a result, there was non-visible internal twisting and collapsing of the PTFE tube. So after @cjatrains mention of modifying the eBay dipstick, I investigated. Wah Lah!!
There is enough length in the eBay dipstick to cut it shorter as needed, without having to cut into the swage collar. See pic.

 

[cjatrains]

Good news! After removing my modified dipstick hose I learned that my main issues were related to the retrofit hose and fittings purchased off Amazon. The retrofit hose I purchased was much stiffer than the one supplied with the eBay dipstick. The second significant issue was that the retrofit fittings I purchase do not spin/swivel when tightening, therefore, the hose was spinning close to the transmission, but not up the firewall. As a result, there was non-visible internal twisting and collapsing of the PTFE tube. So after @cjatrains mention of modifying the eBay dipstick, I investigated. Wah Lah!!
There is enough length in the eBay dipstick to cut it shorter as needed, without having to cut into the swage collar. See pic.

VERY COOL, and that graphic you put together with Dimensions/Details is Awesome !!!

It's also good to know that the eBay knock off fitting at the transmission port does have the swivel feature. Reason I say that, at least I'll have the option of unscrewing it and going straight into that port with MV7300 evacuation pump and pumping the 7-8 quarts back in through that port if decide to.

I am open to trying to use the MightyVac pump with one of the smaller diameter nylon tubes made to fit down conventional ATF filler tubes to suck the fluid out, but if it takes too long, or I feel resistance inserting the evacuation tube, it's nice to know I can remove this eBay 22000 fitting do my bulk drain & fill, then take advantage of this dipstick for final topping off.

 

[Snakebyte]

You can see below that I mounted my dipstick cap/access under the shock tower cross brace on the RH side near the fuse/battery boxes. It seems to be a good location for good access, yet somewhat hidden from a prominent view.
It is secured with a fabricated bracket that shares a harness standoff screw. The standoff bracket is made from 1/8" x 3/4" x 6" aluminum bar stock.

Here's a pic of the transmission-Catalytic Converter location. I had to be careful to not damage the converter wires with my wrenches. Note that I slipped heat shielding over the hose. It may or may not be necessary with the stainless braid hose because the PTFE tube inside can withstand 500 degrees F. If I had used the nylon braiding near the converter like I originally attempted, I suspected that shielding might be a good idea, as the nylon melting temp is 400. degrees.

 

[Brokestang]

I bought one of these. Removes the fluid & puts in back in no problem. The small tube that comes with the pump will go all the way down the new dipstick tube. Cut the very end of the plastic tube at an angle will help it slide down the dipstick tube.

 

[DougS550]

I bought one of these. Removes the fluid & puts in back in no problem. The small tube that comes with the pump will go all the way down the new dipstick tube. Cut the very end of the plastic tube at an angle will help it slide down the dipstick tube.

Nice. Question which I think someone talked about. If you remove the stock dipstick will fluid come out of the top?

 

[Brokestang]

Mine was setting over night & when I took the factory dipstick out no fluid came out but mine was at least 1.5 quarts low from the factory. Now after the refill & setting over night with the engine off the fluid level is right below the fitting where the very top of the dipstick comes out at the bottom of the fitting so as long as it's not overfilled it shouldn't have fluid come out when you remove the factory dipstick.

Nice. Question which I think someone talked about. If you remove the stock dipstick will fluid come out of the top?

 

[cjatrains]

I had the identical result as @Brokestang

Finally got mine filled all the way to the 5 marker. Left the plug and dipstick out overnight as I wasn't going to try and install them with everything hot.

After like 12 hours of just sitting and draining into the pan, I put my factory dipstick in and checked the level dead cold draining down overnight I was 1/4" under the top of the dipstick, maybe like where the 1 marker is.

Anyway, I put almost 9 nine quarts in mine, I did lose a pint disconnecting one of my two front ATF coolers (that's a story for another day!)..... So my conclusion even full hot to the #5 Mark on the factory stick, it won't overflow if you pull the cap with the engine off, cold and all the fluid in the pan.

 

[DougS550]

Mine was setting over night & when I took the factory dipstick out no fluid came out but mine was at least 1.5 quarts low from the factory. Now after the refill & setting over night with the engine off the fluid level is right below the fitting where the very top of the dipstick comes out at the bottom of the fitting so as long as it's not overfilled it shouldn't have fluid come out when you remove the factory dipstick.

Good to know. That way fluid should not overflow when I install the dipstick fitting.

 

[Brokestang]

Mine took 8 quarts

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