2017 Mustang GT Stock, Trying to throw on PP1 wheels on front and is causing rub issues.

[ShadesOfBloo]

...I will probably return the crap i ordered then and look around more carefully and be patient.

If that's on the table, it opens up a lot of options.

I've been interested in this thread partly to compare to my existing ideas for if I ever take my Mustang to run laps with the sports car clubs.
I have to admit Vorshlag Motorsports and this meme have been a bad influence...

I wanted to make assembly simple by getting wheels with appropriate offsets, but there's the big question of: If that day comes, how much do I want to spend?

So I wrote down some options to remember:

My "cheapskate" plan was to get SVE's copies of the Mach 1 HP wheels, which includes 19x10 in front and is $1200 for the set. Your 275 and 305 tires would fit on those.
https://lmr.com/item/WK-351913/sve-mustang-mhp1-wheel-kit-19x10-11-gloss-graphite-15-22

You could also get the GT350R 7-spoke look in the same sizes, for the same price.
https://lmr.com/item/WK-177913A/mustang-sve-r350-wheel-kit-graphite-19x10-11-15-17

They'll sell you a staggered set or a set of four 19x10s for the same price.

(With that plan I have the risk that I'll be slower than someone with a Mach 1, blame my "small" wheels and tires, and want to buy bigger ones later.)

If I feel rich the day I'm buying, my "Do it right so I never have to do it again" plan was to get a set of four 19x11 wheels from APEX.
https://www.apexraceparts.com/shop-...tang/19x11-et26-apex-sm-10-mustang-wheel.html
That would be about $2100 for the set of wheels.

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[TopJimmyCooks]

Which year is the OP car?… 2017
Which year is my car.. ?
2017
Therefore it will fit for sure on a 17
So 15/17 yes, 18 up I don’t know
An easy way to know how much spacer you need is to buy a cheap HF micrometer and use it to measure washers that you put on each studs. Bolt he wheel back on and spin it

Really, the process Luc describes is what to do in this case since there are variables, including:
1. Camber adjustment at the hub vs. strut tower brace. Max camber at the hub will reduce inside clearance to strut.
2. Tire sidewall width (e.g.: Mich Pilot SC2 = .9" wider than Mich Pilot SS, meaning 11.25mm difference relative to inside clearance)
3: Offsets: there are OEM wheels that came with the car, and then there are OEM clones sold online. It could be possible that the offsets differ slightly.

Or, the OP can scrap it all and start over with ET40s in front and ET52s in rear.

It's bourbon time, y'all!

 

[shogun32]

Here's a handy chart. The numbers are NOT 'backspace' but describe the relative positions close enough. For your 9.5et53 to fit up front you need the inside number to be 6.6 or a little less instead of 6.8. So while "5mm spacer" may be JUST enough to clear, you're looking more like et45 or 7.5-8mm worth. That's a bit rich on stock studs. But try it out and see how many turns you can get on the wheel nuts. If you can get 7 turns minimum you're OK for street use.

Now if you want to push the wheels out to more like "flush" then you can use up to a 25mm spacer but 20mm is probably where most people will land. You either need extended lugs or one of the bolt-on spacers to accomplish that.


Limits (in) outer inner hub
S550 F 3.7 6.6 70.5
S550 R 3.6- 7.5

19x9 ET40 2.9 6.07
19x9 ET45 2.73 6.27 PP1 front

19x9.5 ET15 4.16 5.34 Challenger front
19x9.5 ET22 c 3.9 5.6 ESR RF02, VMR v710/705
19x9.5 ET25 3.75 5.75
19x9.5 ET30 3.6 5.9 Forgestar F14
19x9.5 ET33 c 3.45 6.0 Centerline 670GM, VMR V705
19x9.5 ET35 3.4 6.13 Konig CG9N514357, Enkei TFR
19x9.5 ET40 3.2 6.3 Drag DR48
19x9.5 ET45 3.0 6.5
19x9.5 ET53 2.66 6.8 PP1 rear

 

[mustang5o]

If I feel rich the day I'm buying, my "Do it right so I never have to do it again" plan was to get a set of four 19x11 wheels from APEX.
https://www.apexraceparts.com/shop-...tang/19x11-et26-apex-sm-10-mustang-wheel.html
That would be about $2100 for the set of wheels.

If you want to run true square wheel and tire setup you need extended studs in front, 25mm spacer and the ET 52's https://www.apexraceparts.com/shop-...tang/19x11-et52-apex-sm-10-mustang-wheel.html. FYI, with Apex you can do the 18x11 EC7 ET52 as well if you prefer an 18" wheel (for track use you might end up with better tire options).

 

[ShadesOfBloo]

If you want to run true square wheel and tire setup you need extended studs in front, 25mm spacer and the ET 52's https://www.apexraceparts.com/shop-...tang/19x11-et52-apex-sm-10-mustang-wheel.html. FYI, with Apex you can do the 18x11 EC7 ET52 as well, if you prefer an 18" wheel (for track use you might end up with better tire options).

You can do that, and I considered it, but I'm leaning toward APEX's set where the front and rear wheels have different offsets so the fronts don't need a spacer.
(Disclaimer: ...IF I decide to track the car.)

Since the OP is seeking knowledge I'd like to clarify:
The point of doing like mustang5o suggests is that you could rotate tires from front to rear.
You can't do that if you get the staggered offsets, like with the APEX ET26 wheels in the front.
Not everybody agrees that rotating tires is important, if that set of wheels and tires is only for the track.

If you're going to drive on 19x11 all the time, being able to rotate tires gets a lot more important.

 

[luc]

You can do that, and I considered it, but I'm leaning toward APEX's set where the front and rear wheels have different offsets so the fronts don't need a spacer.
(Disclaimer: ...IF I decide to track the car.)

Since the OP is seeking knowledge I'd like to clarify:
The point of doing like mustang5o suggests is that you could rotate tires from front to rear.
You can't do that if you get the staggered offsets, like with the APEX ET26 wheels in the front.
Not everybody agrees that rotating tires is important, if that set of wheels and tires is only for the track.

If you're going to drive on 19x11 all the time, being able to rotate tires gets a lot more important.

Track or street, being able to rotate tires is always a plus so why not doing it ????

 

[shogun32]

Track or street, being able to rotate tires is always a plus so why not doing it ????

the benefits on track are negligible. And some of us track rats are made of money, so an extra session on already heavily degraded tires is not worth the bother.

 

[luc]

the benefits on track are negligible. And some of us track rats are made of money, so an extra session on already heavily degraded tires is not worth the bother.

Lol. After each track event, as part of my routine maintenance, I remove wheels and tires to inspect them and rotate them
Most track that i run have more left hands than right hands turn and therefore passenger side tires take more of a beating than driver side

 

[kluke15]

for what its worth you dont have to run 1 inch spacers to run the rear pp1 wheels up front on stock studs. you can use a 5mm spacer and it will clear the strut tower. can still use stock studs and lugs.

i run rear pp1 wheels squared all around just uses a 5mm spacer up front. have had up to 285/35/19 up front with no rubbing at all.

 

[ShadesOfBloo]

Most track that i run have more left hands than right hands turn and therefore passenger side tires take more of a beating than driver side

That sounds like a reason to swap tires from left to right, which you can still do with staggered offsets.

for what its worth you don't have to run 1 inch spacers to run the rear pp1 wheels up front on stock studs. you can use a 5mm spacer and it will clear the strut tower. can still use stock studs and lugs.

i run rear pp1 wheels squared all around just uses a 5mm spacer up front. have had up to 285/35/19 up front with no rubbing at all.

Yes, earlier in the thread a lot of us agreed a 5mm spacer sounds like a valid fix.

Some of us might be off on a tangent now.

 

[luc]

That sounds like a reason to swap tires from left to right, which you can still do with staggered offsets.



Yes, earlier in the thread a lot of us agreed a 5mm spacer sounds like a valid fix.

Some of us might be off on a tangent now.

The front tires always wear faster than the rear. The most wear is front passenger and less is rear driver. Good reason to be able to rotate

 

[mustang5o]

The front tires always wear faster than the rear. The most wear is front passenger and less is rear driver. Good reason to be able to rotate

It's the opposite at the two tracks I have the most time on. However, all the serious track guys I know rotate tires. At these tracks it's not uncommon for us to flip the left front and right rear. However, we inspect them and put the best on the left front and worst on the right rear just in case there's some odd wear.

 

[Racer5973]

So I looked in the back of the wheel like you said and found the offset to be 52.5mm and the actual wheel itself is sized at 19x9.5. Would you guys think 25mm spacers or 1 inch would be enough for the fronts to be okay to ride and drive on?

[/QUOTE]
That is a rear wheel.

 

[shogun32]

a 5-8mm spacer will solve your problem - with caveat that 8mm might be pushing it a tad on stock lugs. Why do you keep trying to resort to bolt-on 1" spacers? I thought you wanted to not spend $$$.

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