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2015-2020 GT350 value?

MAGS1

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6-speed manual. I could never bring myself to get the automatic no matter how good it is.

I don’t want to derail this thread too much, I’m really just asking how to really reach the enthusiast community. We talk about values but that relies in large part on being able to reach the right people, and I haven’t stayed up on where people sell these types of cars - just trying to figure out where to start. I see people refer to Facebook marketplace, but I’m not willing to go into Facebook, even if just for this one purpose.

If you would like to discuss feel free to PM me. I would be more than happy to tell you about the car offline.
You can list private party sales on sites like AutoTrader, cars.com, etc. Not sure if they charge a fee for doing so or not.
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stanglife

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Where did you list your R when you went to sell it? I’m getting ready to sell my 2019 ZL1 1LE after I get back from a work trip next week, but it has been more than a decade since I tried to sell a car and I’m frankly not even sure where to start. I don’t do bookface or other socials…. I do plan to list it on the Camaro6 forum but that’s not a very wide net to cast.
Autotrader is where it sold. Out of all the platforms, fewer BS tire kickers there. I don't want to share publicly what the sale price was (I believe the owner is registered here) but it was not bargain basement - appropriate for the car.
 

Tomster

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Autotrader is where it sold. Out of all the platforms, fewer BS tire kickers there. I don't want to share publicly what the sale price was (I believe the owner is registered here) but it was not bargain basement - appropriate for the car.
So when are you buying the next one Jeff?
 

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I am not asking the value of my car. I want to buy another one.

I am asking the current used value of the six-year run of the GT350? I say a clean car with no previous damage. I say the value would be in the correct 5.2L engine (not a replacement). It will need the proper paperwork.

I have no color or stripe preference.

What say you?
A little more guidance would help as the value range is wide on relatively small variables. If your color indifferent, that helps…but things like original owner, mileage range, no accident, R vs non-R would help folks provide a better range…

Original engine, got it. But if that’s the only big one, 16/17/18 will be best value as there’s a notable jump on 19/20 on some changes Ford made to car (plenty of debates here on merits of Gen 1 / Gen 2, so won’t get into that here). Also feels like black / white / gray are colors I’ve seen priced better than some of the more exotic stuff, and this car looks really stunning in all of them!
 

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Autotrader is where it sold. Out of all the platforms, fewer BS tire kickers there. I don't want to share publicly what the sale price was (I believe the owner is registered here) but it was not bargain basement - appropriate for the car.
Thank you, Jeff. I took a quick look at that site and I’ll have some more research to do. I saw your prior post about selling your R and all the tire kickers. I’m not looking forward to this process, but I appreciate the guidance.
 

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passwords

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You can list private party sales on sites like AutoTrader, cars.com, etc. Not sure if they charge a fee for doing so or not.
Thank you. I took a Quick Look at Auto Trader and I’ll have to explore using that site in more detail. I’ll check out car.com as well. I remember looking for my R for about 18 months in 2017/2018 before I found an allocation, but that consisted almost entirely of time on the Ford configurator. I got the ZLE shortly thereafter and my focus has been elsewhere ever since.
 

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It would be so awesome to me if the owner of the Camaro ZL1 1LE connects with some one in this thread who ends up buying his car 😎.
I’ve seen/heard them rip around Sebring raceway, such awesome cars !!!
 
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I am not selling my GT350 car. I am wanting to buy another one. I didn't explain it well.

The above links are all good.

I got the extra big box of extra stuff with my original purchase. I wish sellers would mention this. Private sellers need this information while dealers need to turn inventory.
 

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All I can recommend which I usually do in similar threads is this:

Don’t just bank on your local 5-10 mile radius when looking for any vehicle.

Hit up sites like cargurus, and in their search engine always do “Nationwide”. When doing that, you can really compare values across the board for similar equipped vehicles (stock and factory options).

You would be surprised that sometimes you may even find a vehicle for less than local and even including transport costs to your location.

Don’t buy on emotion - again do the price comparisons across the country using XYZ sites, that’s going to give you the best “eye” into going rates and what is fair vs holy shit that’s way too damn high…

Also to note if looking behind your state, there are companies that will do inspections for fair value OR sometimes if a member here is local to the car I’ve seen others offer to check it out for a review of it.
 

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95CobraR

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,,All I can recommend which I usually do in similar threads is this:

Don’t just bank on your local 5-10 mile radius when looking for any vehicle...

You would be surprised that sometimes you may even find a vehicle for less than local..
Thanks,
I have my one-owner GT350. I am looking for a second one. I need one that looks legitimate with a title (I need a copy of the title).

I got a PM for a car that seemed suspicious with a lien on it. They wanted me to pay off the lien and then send them $7200. They would send me the title later. They ignored my question about the Ford paperwork. I passed on this.

I just want to buy a legit car with the proper papers.
 

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I have actually seen the best pricing at OEM dealers that took the car on trade in and don’t fully understand what they have. For example, best price locally when I was looking for mine was at a Mercedes dealer or something like that. They don’t understand the value of certain specs, they just look at black book value and paint evening with the same brush. And if it’s from a dealer, no concerns on liens or paperwork issues.
 

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Thanks,
I have my one-owner GT350. I am looking for a second one. I need one that looks legitimate with a title (I need a copy of the title).

I got a PM for a car that seemed suspicious with a lien on it. They wanted me to pay off the lien and then send them $7200. They would send me the title later. They ignored my question about the Ford paperwork. I passed on this.

I just want to buy a legit car with the proper papers.
Use a legit escrow service if being challenged with a vehicle that has a lien on it. You will be protected in that sense. Never ever “Zelle” or use any device that won’t protect the buyer or send anyone $$$ if tempted to “pay off” XYZ for a totally unknown person, there’s TOO MANY major scams happening across many car forums. Be very leery of forum “one hit wonders” - meaning someone who is new to the site and does not have any contributions to the site. The scammers prey on posts and classified ads where good folks are “wanting” XYZ product or vehicle….

Also the VIN reporting agencies such as CarFax (being one of the largest) are not always 100% accurate with vehicle history - so be sure to really do your due diligence more so with a specialty vehicle on the higher end of the cost spectrum, GT350 or not. When shopping for a Ford, if you are Stateside and the car is in a Ford Dealer lot, you can ask for an OASIS report. If you’re offshore and it’s at a Ford Dealer, you can do the same but it’s coming out of the ETIS system and may be referred to as an ETIS report. Regardless of which Ford Dealer here or there, that report will contain info about the VIN such as any repair history (warranty or regular repairs beyond warranty), when the vehicle was first invoiced, any Buy Back/Lemon info, any warranty denial info, it’s As Built info, etc etc. providing it was serviced at a Ford Dealer. Any service beyond a Ford Dealer obviously won’t show on that report.

I know you already own a GT350 as you provided in your posts, so you as an owner of a genuine GT350 should know what to look for as far as getting another true, legit GT350…. Just watch for low lifes trying to scam you out of your hard earned $$$.

If you find one that isn’t at a Dealership and is Private Party sale not local, ask the person to post images of it with some type of other identifier in the picture so you know it’s not just some scum ball using someone else’s online photos to lure you in. You can also ask them to give you some type of major landmark near them to confirm they are at least from where they are saying… because most scammers don’t know jack about anything and would not be able to come up with such landmarks. That is another huge scamming issue too - where these dirtbags take someone else’s online vehicle photos and try to use those photos as being their own to sell, so just be careful with across state lines Private Party sales where the value and or asking price is just too good to be legit.
 

stanglife

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So when are you buying the next one Jeff?
Very likely never. I have a couple projects in me and I'm looking forward to it. Because of how good the R is, I would also never be able to buy any other sports car out there....especially when they are more money. Pretty much ruined me for newish performance cars. Once you've had one...how can you pay more for less? I'd rather have nothing ;)

That said, these old 911s are pretty slow but they have the same feeling of being special even when driving at 5/10ths, that the R did.

I certainly knew I wasn't selling the R for something better - just something different, a different experience.
 
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95CobraR

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.....
Also the VIN reporting agencies such as CarFax (being one of the largest) are not always 100% accurate with vehicle history - so be sure to really do your due diligence more so with a specialty vehicle on the higher end of the cost spectrum, GT350 or not. When shopping for a Ford, if you are Stateside and the car is in a Ford Dealer lot, you can ask for an OASIS report. If you’re offshore and it’s at a Ford Dealer, you can do the same but it’s coming out of the ETIS....

If you find one that isn’t at a Dealership and is Private Party sale not local.......
Thanks, I didn't know the Ford dealer can provide me an OASIS report.

My plan on a Private sale is to have the owner take the car for a PPI (pre-purchase inspection). I will pay for it ($100-$200 in the past). If he refuses, then no deal.

Another thing is the Owner's Supplement which was the stuff sent to me after purchase (the model of the crank with the chassis number, literature, etc.). It was a big box full of stuff. Plus two keys. Most sellers don't have it (A original owner probably would).

I asked one Ford dealer if they had it (traded a GT500 for it). The Sales Manager said those were not made on newer cars. I explained that he was incorrect., and I'll take a picture of one and send it to you (most salesman will lie). I didn't make an offer.

2015 (too few made--137)
2016-2020. I am going with ~23,000 made.
I think around 2% of those are on the market at just below MSRP or a bit higher (low miles and needs nothing--except a few need new tires due to date codes).
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