18 GTPP alignment frustrations

[dmann]

The MM camber plates should only be mounted on the correct side with the correct orientation. They aren't universal, and if installed incorrectly, will not give you much adjustment.
If I can remember, I will take a pic of mine when I get home. At -2.0, I am just about 3/4 inch from the center.

I'll look for the pic

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[Det_Riot]

If you're real good buddies with your guy who does the alignment, you always have him check the squareness of the K member itself. We just dropped the front end of my buddy's 18 and the Kmember and front subframe looked like they have alignment holes to line everything up. If nothing is wrong with the install, I'd look there to see if it's misaligned on the k-member to frame itself

 

[dmann]

I'm pulling the wheels this weekend to see if I can make sure the plate orientation is correct.
If they are then the should be installed correctly.

So, I am leaning toward adding lowering springs to get me from 1.9 to 2.5, hopefully. I read these are a good fit for my GTPP: BMR SP080.

Suggestions?

 

[Cdnspeed]

Your subframe is probably off centre, not a huge shock, it is a ford at the end of the day, if you have a good alignment shop they can shift it over abit to get you evened up

 

[bootlegger]

I'm pulling the wheels this weekend to see if I can make sure the plate orientation is correct.
If they are then the should be installed correctly.

So, I am leaning toward adding lowering springs to get me from 1.9 to 2.5, hopefully. I read these are a good fit for my GTPP: BMR SP080.

Suggestions?

BMR and Steeda both make good stuff. While you are doing the springs, go ahead and replace the front end links. The stock ones are trash. My passenger side one was bent after only 4k mile on the car and zero racing or pot hole hits.

 

[dmann]

Update:
***This probably needs to be a sticky in some form so that others don't make the same mistake I did***
I spoke with Maximum Motorsports. They said their products maximum camber is about -2 degrees.

Honestly, when I purchased I went off forum info instead of contacting them. Now, I am in a dilemma to either do lowering springs as mentioned or get different plates. The spring option is iffy just because I don't know how much more camber it will add.
I will hate to go the spring route and only get an extra -.2.

Do you all have any feedback on that?

 

[NightmareMoon]

Then, I'd definitely go get some different plates. No point in running a car significantly lower on different springs than you want (which may also kill performance) just to squeak in some extra camber.

2 degrees max is not a good fit for track use where you don't want to destroy the outside edge of the tire prematurely.

 

[dmann]

2 degrees max is not a good fit for track use where you don't want to destroy the outside edge of the tire prematurely.

I agree

 

[o-man]

Steeda claims 3 degrees with theirs which I could believe. I'm at 2 degrees and I think there's room to get to three

 

[AlbertD]

I was able to get -3 out of the Steeda camber plates (lowered about an inch up front) although the top of the strut was touching the strut tower hole and during hard cornering started eating in to it. I decided to hole saw out the strut tower hole for some extra wiggle room. Out of curiosity I maxed out the camber plates and was happy to see -3.75 of camber. I typically only run -3 degrees on track with my particular setup.

I was really impressed with these Steeda plates, highly recommend them. They have seen quite a fair share of track abuse/street miles and I haven't had any issues or noises with them.

 

[BmacIL]

I was able to get -3 out of the Steeda camber plates (lowered about an inch up front) although the top of the strut was touching the strut tower hole and during hard cornering started eating in to it. I decided to hole saw out the strut tower hole for some extra wiggle room. Out of curiosity I maxed out the camber plates and was happy to see -3.75 of camber. I typically only run -3 degrees on track with my particular setup.

I was really impressed with these Steeda plates, highly recommend them. They have seen quite a fair share of track abuse/street miles and I haven't had any issues or noises with them.

I'd caution anyone to not set the strut so it's touching the strut tower hole. There is still some small rotation when the suspension compresses and it will crash hard into it/bind slightly if touching at ride height.

 

[bootlegger]

Update:
***This probably needs to be a sticky in some form so that others don't make the same mistake I did***
I spoke with Maximum Motorsports. They said their products maximum camber is about -2 degrees.

Honestly, when I purchased I went off forum info instead of contacting them. Now, I am in a dilemma to either do lowering springs as mentioned or get different plates. The spring option is iffy just because I don't know how much more camber it will add.
I will hate to go the spring route and only get an extra -.2.

Do you all have any feedback on that?

I call BS on them. What would even be the point of buying camber plates with a max of -2 deg? As stated before, mine was -2.6 on both sides with some room to go further. I estimate -3 is the limit of how far I could go while still having a little room.
@Niz55 How much did you get when you had the MM plates installed? Wondering what the car to car variation may be.

 

[BmacIL]

-2 might be true at stock height.

 

[Coyote Red]

Steeda has the most adjustable camber plates. I lowered my pony and have this issue with BMR camber bolts installed.

 

[dmann]

-2 might be true at stock height.

and I would be willing to do lowering springs in hopes of getting to 2.5 but from what I read about .2 is as much as I can expect.

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