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18 GTPP alignment frustrations

dmann

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Guys,
This is going to be a little of a rant out of frustration. I had maximum motorsport camber plates installed not to long ago and the original installer/alignment guy could not get more than about -1.9 camber up front and 1.5 in the rear. The right side would go up to 2.4 but I wanted them equal. I didn't fuss too much and just thought maybe something was bound up and I will look at it more before my spring track days. Another point was made that mileage varies with alignment folks so I was thinking it was something either missed or not known.

So today I took it to a performance shop(over an hour a way) to validate that the plates were installed correct(they didn't disassemble but stated they looked right) so that was fine by me. Then off to the alignment shop that does of a lot of track/race cars. They could not get the front more that 1.9 either.

What the heck could be the deal? I got these plates because I thought they could do up to -3. I need some confirmation that others have used these and are getting better numbers. I have spent so much time back and forth and out of town that I am to the point of trashing them and going with something else.

I have a DE weekend lined up for March and really wanted to use the new wheel and tire setup i have (SVE2 and R888R) but don't want to kill the edges because of not having enough camber for the front.

Suggestions please
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NightmareMoon

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Look where your strut tops are in the strut tower holes in your engine bay, and post a picture if you can.

If the strut top is maxed out in the hole (i.e almost touching the edge), then thats your issue, you’ll need to widen that hole to get more clearance. If the holes are maxed no other brand will do any better. Vorshlag sells a jig to cut a bigger hole with a holesaw, or you could dremmel a notch.

If the strut isnt almost touching the edge of the hole, then I guess the camber plate is maxed out. If it makes you feel any better, my friend with a GT350 could only get 2.0 degrees with MM camber plates, IDK if his plates were maxed out or if he hit the limit of the strut tower hole. Steeda camber plates will go past 3 degrees, but at some point you will max out the adjustment without widening your strut tower holes (and getting 3 degrees will almost certainly require that).

You can also get additional camber at the strut to spindle bolts. Some aftermarket coilovers are slotted there, and thats how some of them get big camber numbers like 3.5 degrees (when combined with camber plates). Camber bolts accomplish the same thing but you’ll give up a little tire clearance at the strut.
 
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dmann

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Man, I appreciate the feedback. Sometimes a sounding board works wonders.

Look at the pics. The alignment guys said one side could do up to 2.4 and the other 1.9. I have to assume the passenger side is the one that he was referring too being able to go to 2.4 while the drivers side looks maxed out.

Could this be some kind of assemble/install issue?

The reason I ask, if all things are within X tolerance then shouldn't they both be able to do either 1.9 or 2.4? Not one at 2.4 and the other at 1.9? Does that make sense? To me something seems to be wrong with the drivers side.

Drivers side
IMG_1179.webp

Passenger side
IMG_8356.webp
 

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Guys,
This is going to be a little of a rant out of frustration. I had maximum motorsport camber plates installed not to long ago and the original installer/alignment guy could not get more than about -1.9 camber up front and 1.5 in the rear. The right side would go up to 2.4 but I wanted them equal. I didn't fuss too much and just thought maybe something was bound up and I will look at it more before my spring track days. Another point was made that mileage varies with alignment folks so I was thinking it was something either missed or not known.

So today I took it to a performance shop(over an hour a way) to validate that the plates were installed correct(they didn't disassemble but stated they looked right) so that was fine by me. Then off to the alignment shop that does of a lot of track/race cars. They could not get the front more that 1.9 either.

What the heck could be the deal? I got these plates because I thought they could do up to -3. I need some confirmation that others have used these and are getting better numbers. I have spent so much time back and forth and out of town that I am to the point of trashing them and going with something else.

I have a DE weekend lined up for March and really wanted to use the new wheel and tire setup i have (SVE2 and R888R) but don't want to kill the edges because of not having enough camber for the front.

Suggestions please
I have the same camber plates and was at -2.6 on both sides after installing it. That was just me eyeballing things with a small level. They could have gone much more negative than that. After alignment, I had the shop set at -2.0 in front and around -1.8 in back.
 

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Man, I appreciate the feedback. Sometimes a sounding board works wonders.

Look at the pics. The alignment guys said one side could do up to 2.4 and the other 1.9. I have to assume the passenger side is the one that he was referring too being able to go to 2.4 while the drivers side looks maxed out.

Could this be some kind of assemble/install issue?

The reason I ask, if all things are within X tolerance then shouldn't they both be able to do either 1.9 or 2.4? Not one at 2.4 and the other at 1.9? Does that make sense? To me something seems to be wrong with the drivers side.

Drivers side
IMG_1179.webp

Passenger side
IMG_8356.webp
Are you sure the shop installed correctly? I don't think you could really tell without dropping the strut out again. With mine looking like the top of yours, I am guessing I would have been close to -3.
 

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are those plates on top directional or are they cut evenly? If they aren't perfectly square try flipping over the one that won't camber in as much
 

NightmareMoon

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Theres very little you can do to install the struts wrong. Some cars are just not that symmetrical from the factory. I know a different guy with a base S550 GT who’s car doesnt get equal camber with equal mods, hell even my car’s camber plates arent perfectly equal to each other. Your car has a little more than typical, but its easy to believe. Probably something with the subframe or suspension pickup points, who knows. Not much you can do about it.

Before you do anything else I’d want to confirm that the one that looks maxed out is in fact the one at 1.9. If its the one that doesnt look maxed at all thats actually at 1.9, then its a different problem entirely. Did you get an alignment sheet to take home from either aligbment place?
 
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dmann

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I have the same camber plates and was at -2.6 on both sides after installing it. That was just me eyeballing things with a small level. They could have gone much more negative than that. After alignment, I had the shop set at -2.0 in front and around -1.8 in back.
That's more in line with what I expect. Do you have pictures of where the strut bolts were in conjunction to the strut tower?
 
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dmann

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Are you sure the shop installed correctly? I don't think you could really tell without dropping the strut out again. With mine looking like the top of yours, I am guessing I would have been close to -3.
No, I'm not sure. I may end up tearing them down myself even though this is not my expertise.
 

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dmann

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Theres very little you can do to install the struts wrong. Some cars are just not that symmetrical from the factory. I know a different guy with a base S550 GT who’s car doesnt get equal camber with equal mods, hell even my car’s camber plates arent perfectly equal to each other. Your car has a little more than typical, but its easy to believe. Probably something with the subframe or suspension pickup points, who knows. Not much you can do about it.

Before you do anything else I’d want to confirm that the one that looks maxed out is in fact the one at 1.9. If its the one that doesnt look maxed at all thats actually at 1.9, then its a different problem entirely. Did you get an alignment sheet to take home from either aligbment place?
Hmm, Even though I don't like the answer, I can believe it and am glad you have seen something similar. It's kinda refreshing in a weird way.
The guy that originally installed the plates stated that he couldn't remember if he put the correct strut with the correct side(not sure that matters)

I am speaking with the alignment guy this afternoon to ask him exactly what you asked. Which one could do the -2.4. Which one seemed to have more adjustability etc?
 

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I know some camber plates will have more adjustment one way or the other based on the orientation they are installed. I don't have experience with those MM plates, but something to consider. Could be one plate is installed with more adjustment bias towards negative and the other may be flipped causing more bias towards positive. The passenger side certainly looks like it should have more room to go negative.
 

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Yeah, my friend with the GT350 got a similiar message from his alignment guy. Couldn't get more camber, due to "strut tower", only got 2.0. He was also confused because the strut top didn't look maxed out in the hole. I'm wondering if its some sort of design issue with the camber plates. Sorry I don't have any more info. I'd try contacting MM.
 

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Hmm, Even though I don't like the answer, I can believe it and am glad you have seen something similar. It's kinda refreshing in a weird way.
The guy that originally installed the plates stated that he couldn't remember if he put the correct strut with the correct side(not sure that matters)

I am speaking with the alignment guy this afternoon to ask him exactly what you asked. Which one could do the -2.4. Which one seemed to have more adjustability etc?
The MM camber plates should only be mounted on the correct side with the correct orientation. They aren't universal, and if installed incorrectly, will not give you much adjustment.
If I can remember, I will take a pic of mine when I get home. At -2.0, I am just about 3/4 inch from the center.
 

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