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I know a lot of guys go from stock 18's to the 285/35/19's, but what I really want to know, is how much of a difference in general ride quality did you notice? If you also did a 1" lower spring kit, how much stiffer and rougher did it get?

I'm not too concerned about undercoating the framework, because new steels are quite corrosion resistant. However, I noticed when I got to work today, that the wheel wells are made of this felt-like material, and it was totally waterlogged from rain. It seems like a very cheap kind of material...

I found this thread on another forum, and can't help but wonder if they have this same kit for the 2018's. Or, perhaps this kit will fit and work for the 2018/19 GT's. One of the reviewers of this kit says it works on the 2018's. Also, my engine appears to be machined for a belt tensioner to be...

I know for a fact the least expensive way to boost, is to go centrifugal. The most power is of course twin turbos, and if you want a warranty, you can go Roush or Whipple. But here's one question I've never really seen answered. And that is, what is the most reliable way to boost a 2018 GT for...

- 800 miles, I get the tick. - 1,000 miles. First oil change. Mobil 1 5w20 EP. Tick gets worse. - 3,300 miles. New clutch installed. Now I have tick and rattle on 2,000rpm decel. - 3,400 miles, switch to PUP 5w30. Tick still there, even louder. - 3,500 miles, added 100ml Ceratec. Tick...

For all those who may see this who live in Europe, I'm very curious what the oil cap on the 5.0L 2018 Mustangs recommend to use. I hear in Australia, the caps say 5w30. I also hear that in Europe, they also say 5w30. If anyone here is from the UK, Germany or Australia, I'd be curious to see...

As I sit and think about what's going on, I can't help but wonder if the "Tick" simply can't be fixed. There are certainly some people who have had scored cylinders, and even some rod bearing failures. But really, not that many. Now some guys are saying the tick is caused by sloppy wrist pins...

Well, I just had a crazy idea. What I'd like to do is start a thread with volunteers willing to do a little experiment. The experiment involves either recording or just writing down a good description of the BBQ tick you currently have. Frequency, and when it comes and goes. RPM differences...

I'm thinking of giving my '18 GT a 1" drop. It's my daily driver, so I don't want it any lower like Eibachs, and the street springs apparently keep the ride much smoother than most others meant more for track use. Plus the Ford Performance springs are only about $300. Anyway, I was wondering if...

Found this crazy render a few weeks ago, and ran across it again in my email from the Mustang Source. I laughed at first, but then it dawned on me... ...Some Nutcase is Gonna do it! Just watch! Some crazy gear head is going to get board. :cwl:

Have any of you guys had issues with cylinder scoring? Especially with any of the S550's that started with a tick, and got worse. I'm curious if you also saw a related decrease in oil level along with that issue. If so, let me know what you experienced.

So basically, my car is sitting at the dealership to have a new clutch installed, because I noticed mine started slipping every so slightly on the highway in 6th gear, and smelling up my garage after driving home from work. Now, the 2018 GT has a new twin disc clutch, and a dual mass fly...

I would really love to get a ProSport electric oil pressure gauge, and mount it to the center air vent with the adapter kit you can buy online. The oil gauge comes with a pressure sender, but from what I gather, there is already a sender of some type installed in the system for the normal...

Well, I know I'm not the best driver of a manual transmission, but I drove my old Jeep XJ for years with no issues. After only 3,300 miles in my new pony car, I noticed the clutch was quite noisy from the get go, thinking it was normal for a twin disc to be noisy. Especially when down shifting...

I wasn't sure if I should even bother posting this, but one problem my GT has had, other than the infamous "tick", is the E-brake handle tension was very loose from the day I got it. You could bump the handle upward and before it would even ratchet, the light would come on. It would just flop up...