BC Racing Coils versus Bilstein B6 + Steeda Minimum Drop Springs

[NightmareMoon]

IDK man. Usually (nearly always), coilover springs are a completely different radius and shape than OEM springs, so 97.43% chance they won't carry over.

If you can get a picture we could confirm.

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[Mach VII]

You are correct, the stockers are 19's, I edited my original post.

Do you recommend a square or staggered setup?

I prefer squared for rotation purposes.... I see no reason to run a small tire in front for the staggered look when these cars need as much tire in front as you can throw at them.

 

[PsychoPete]

Its a good plan. i’d also swap out those coils for some bilsteins and min drop springs.


For the wheel/tire, the considerations are weight, and tire sidewall. Depending on the 20s on the car they could be extremely heavy or basically fine. In general 20 packages are heavier than 19s and then 18s, but it depends on the specific wheel and tire you go with. You can mess it up with a heavy 18” wheel too. Some people are running the same sidewall in 19s that people run in 20s so it can be a wash, you just need to dig into the detailed specs

Still, a good 19x10” ET35 square set with 285/35R19 tires on all 4 corners really suits the car IMHO and will weigh less than stock wheel and tire sets if you go with flowformed/spinforged or forged wheels. Cast wheels and where things get heavy (most Ford OEM wheels are cast). Flowformed/spinforged means forged barrels and cast face, ao they minimize weight where it helps the most, but arent forged throughout, and there are plenty of good muatang specific wheels in that category and sizes. If a wheel doesnt say its weight or it doesnt say its construction, assume its cast and a boat anchor.

Pay attention to tire weight and quality too, but please dont cheap out and throw some bargin price Nittos on there, they’re terrible.

Should I also install sway bars with the shocks and springs? I never had this car in stock form so I have no context with how much body roll it could have.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Should I also install sway bars with the shocks and springs? I never had this car in stock form so I have no context with how much body roll it could have.

Well you could but its more money and labor. Stiffer sways make the ride harsher over bumps. The car may body roll less just from the higher ride height (depending on some things) because the roll center geometry will likely be better at a the new taller and closer to stock ride height. Ironic huh? Do you know what swaybar is on the car now?

The front is kinda a pain to do so you save some work doing it while the front struts are out. The rear sway is a really trivial job. Takes just a couple minutes and doesnt upset the alignment, so you can do that anytime down the road, no rush.

If you do a bar, maybe a BMR 35mm front bar and set it on soft. Rear bars can quickly get too stiff which causes more oversteer, so yeah. You can stay stock there and see how it drives without changing it first.

 

[PsychoPete]

Well you could but its more money and labor. Stiffer sways make the ride harsher over bumps. The car may body roll less just from the higher ride height (depending on some things) because the roll center geometry will likely be better at a the new taller and closer to stock ride height. Ironic huh? Do you know what swaybar is on the car now?

My car is a '17 GT with PP1, so whatever swaybar came with the car is presumably what is on it now.

 

[Superspirit]

I used the Steeda catalog approach. Min drop springs, sway bars, end links, stop the hop starter kit, strut tower brace, k frame support, I forget what it was called. Everthing except the struts and shocks. Also added all the ford pp bracing as I started with a base GT. Am planning on bilstein dampers when the time comes. All I can say is this car handles well and I push it in the mountains. Also have a C6 corvette and I believe my pony car will hang in the handling dept well for my abilities anyway.

 

[blankman]

Should I also install sway bars with the shocks and springs? I never had this car in stock form so I have no context with how much body roll it could have.

The front bar can be a PITA if you aren't ready for it. The bolts are blue locktite. I tried using my 1/2" impact on it with extensions and had to revert to a breaker bar with about a 2 foot extension just to loosen up a couple of the bolts. You'll want a wratching wrench for the drivers side bolts, unless you want to spend 45 minutes removing them.

 

[Grintch]

Almost anything else will ride better than BC coilvers (except for even cheaper coilovers). Those are not really meant for performance or ride quality, just for lowering purposes.

I would personally go with a pair of Ford springs (whether X or Y depending on how stiff you want the ride).

BC Racing makes a wide range of options. Is the bad reputation for just the (probably best selling) cheapest possible option set to the lowest possible ride height?

 

[robvas]

BC Racing makes a wide range of options. Is the bad reputation for just the (probably best selling) cheapest possible option set to the lowest possible ride height?

Likely. Most people are buying the cheapest stuff they can, or the fewest amount of parts possible when they lower their cars. Not to mention failing to understand how spring rates and dampeners etc all work

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