BBQ tick - another attempt to understand

[Johnnybee]

I came across a YouTube video (Michael Mac) where he did an oil change with Shell Rotella T6 5W40 and it got rid of the tick. It is also available in 5W30 and has an SN rating according to Shell's website.

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[accel]

I came across a YouTube video (Michael Mac) where he did an oil change with Shell Rotella T6 5W40 and it got rid of the tick. It is also available in 5W30 and has an SN rating according to Shell's website.

I'm thinking going 5w30... Consider there besides Rotella:


Castrol Edge
5W-30, SN Plus, SN
5W-40, SN, CF (c- works in diesels)

Ad Highlight:
3X stronger against viscocity breakdown than leading conventional oils and Mobil1*
Reduces metal-to-metal contact across a range of different driving speeds
Protects the engine for the entire drain interval even under extreme pressure

Pentosin
5W-40, SM
Ad Highlight:
Contains special friction modifiers which help the engine run smoothly and
improves fuel economy

Valvoline Synthetic
5W-30 SN Plus
Ad Highlight:
it supplies proven wear protection additives that hold up to high temperatures
and friction under the most severe driving conditions

Valvoline SynPower
5W-30 SN Plus
Ad Highlight:
the only leading full synthetic formulated with more durable anti-wear additives
that stay in the oil longer

Valvoline SynPower
5W-40 SN
Ad Highlight:
Provides more durable Anti-Wear Additives which remain in the oil longer
for outstanding protection against friction and wear

 

[accel]

The roller on number 3 has a lot more play in it than the others. Next thing is to take it out and strip it down but not until ford have said they wont do it under warranty.
So number 3 has lower compression, more play in the roller, and when the coil is disconnected tick goes away, can this be tied together in anyway.

Thanks for your research. Might help us diagnose ourselves and give dealer service a hint

 

[spogshd]

What does the #3 spark plug look like?

Plugs all got swapped around when we removed the shells but none looked that bad.

 

[GT Pony]

I'm thinking going 5w30... Consider there besides Rotella:

Valvoline Synthetic
5W-30 SN Plus
Ad Highlight:
it supplies proven wear protection additives that hold up to high temperatures
and friction under the most severe driving conditions

Valvoline SynPower
5W-30 SN Plus
Ad Highlight:
the only leading full synthetic formulated with more durable anti-wear additives
that stay in the oil longer

Next oil change I'm going with the Valvoline Advanced full synthetic in 5W-30. My GT is tick free, but I'm going up in viscosity just because it adds more protection.

I think the Valvoline "Advanced" is what replaced their "SynPower".

 

[GT Pony]

The roller on number 3 has a lot more play in it than the others. Next thing is to take it out and strip it down but not until ford have said they wont do it under warranty.
So number 3 has lower compression, more play in the roller, and when the coil is disconnected tick goes away, can this be tied together in anyway.

I don't think the rocker arm's back and forth lateral movement would affect the way the valve opens, or the compression of the cylinder. The lower compression could just be coincidental. A cylinder leak down test would prove that since a cylinder leak down test doesn't rely on valve actuation. If the rocker arm was affecting the lift of the valve, then it could affect the compression - but I don't see how some lateral slop could do that. Both rocker arms he moved seem to have lateral slop to some degree.

It's possible the tick could be caused by that rocker arm slamming back and forth as the engine is running (kind of like the excessive the rod side clearance theory), but if so I'd think the ticking noise would be more prominent up top of the engine instead of down low and to the rear of the engine like it's been heard prior.

As far as the ticking going away when the coil on cylinder #3 is disconnected, that could be because that removes the explosion in the cylinder which puts force into the rod and crank on that piston. Maybe that affects the way the rod interacts with the crankshaft, and if it comes back to excessive rod side clearance it could be that removing the explosion in that cylinder changes the way the rod moves laterally on the crank journal when the engine is turning (ie, side-to-side slapping of the rod side clearance). Removing the explosion in the cylinder is along the same line as engaging the AC (which puts a different load on the pistons) makes the ticking show up or worse.

With cylinder #3 coil disconnected, the camshaft will still actuate the valve rocker arm the same exact way, so that and the other things I mentioned above makes it look to me like the lose rocker arm might not be the source of the ticking.

It's really great that this tech is digging into all this stuff in detail, as that's the only way the ticking root cause will ever be found.

 

[accel]

Next oil change I'm going with the Valvoline Advanced full synthetic in 5W-30. My GT is tick free, but I'm going up in viscosity just because it adds more protection.

I think the Valvoline "Advanced" is what replaced their "SynPower".

I'm probably not going to wait long. Debating Castrol Edge vs Valvoline.

5w30 or maybe 5w40.

 

[88lx50]

I came across a YouTube video (Michael Mac) where he did an oil change with Shell Rotella T6 5W40 and it got rid of the tick. It is also available in 5W30 and has an SN rating according to Shell's website.

I was thinking of using it but it is a diesel oil. Wondering if it is ok in a gasoline engine. I am going to give Motorcraft 5w30 a shot. I barely have a tick, but I think a heavier weight is a good idea.

 

[accel]

I was thinking of using it but it is a diesel oil. Wondering if it is ok in a gasoline engine. I am going to give Motorcraft 5w30 a shot. I barely have a tick, but I think a heavier weight is a good idea.

If you want 5w40 then Castrol Edge is interesting - it is dual purpose oil good for petrol and diesel engines with petrol engines being primary target.

I'm going to try Castrol Edge 5w30 first. This one is SN, petrol engine only.

 

[spogshd]

Just a quick update, without tearing it down the inspector is leaning towards piston slap on cylinder 3. Ford uk have replaced around 6 or 7 for this bbq tick.
Question is why is it cylinder 3, can someone else pull the coil on cylinder 3 who has the tick and tell us if it goes away. We have two so far.

 

[FilipV8]

Piston slap noise usually goes away or at least it's quieter after engine is fully warmed up, as far as I know.

 

[spogshd]

Piston slap noise usually goes away or at least is quieter after engine is fullu warmed up, as far as I know.

I wouldn't know, but definitely something going on with number 3.

 

[GT Pony]

I wouldn't know, but definitely something going on with number 3.

@spogshd - have you gotten the report from the engine inspector guy yet? What was the rod bearing clearance and rod side clearance on Cyl #3 compared to the rest? Maybe that kind of data might give a clue too.

 

[codegrinder]

Just a quick update, without tearing it down the inspector is leaning towards piston slap on cylinder 3. Ford uk have replaced around 6 or 7 for this bbq tick.
Question is why is it cylinder 3, can someone else pull the coil on cylinder 3 who has the tick and tell us if it goes away. We have two so far.

Mine was cylinder #4 that they pulled the coil on and the knocking-ticking went away.

Now I have a new short block. I wonder how long I should give it to break it in? I was also thinking about going with thicker oil.

 

[Toro73]

Ok so my 2 cents.
My tick, present at start up pretty loud type writer would dissipate after the car was at temp. Change oil again this time with castrol edge 5w-30 and a bottle of ceratec. Tick almost gone. I can still cause it a little bit with short accelerator jabs but, the tick at cold start is completely gone.

It did take a day or two to be completely silent, but I'm happy with the results. car feels fine. So another one for ceratec!

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