Let's talk brake cooling

Epiphany said:

First FP350S I've seen delivered. Note the diverter plates they rivet to the fascia to direct airflow into the brake cooling ducts. I didn't see these at Capaldi's site...

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Good eyes!

Arpa said:

I know the feeling... My front G-LOC R18's got destroyed after 2 track days :doh: I'm modifying the OEM brakes with the below next week and taking them to the track in June. I HOPE they improve braking and wear and tear.

Ferodo GT350 Front Brake Pads - DSUNO
Cooltech Brake Ducts
Titanium Brake Pad Shims - Front
Caliperfexion front caliper stud & extension sleeve
Castrol React SRF Racing Brake Fluid

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I have gotten ~12 (maybe 1.5 to 3 hours track time a day) days on my last set of UNOs. I could of gotten more but I had uneven wear.

firestarter2 said:

I have gotten ~12 (maybe 1.5 to 3 hours track time a day) days on my last set of UNOs. I could of gotten more but I had uneven wear.

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Which tracks? That is impressive run time on a set of pads in these cars.

On other cars, I've noticed huge differences in wear rates between WGI (easy on brakes) and Mid-Ohio (harder) and shorter tracks like Putnam.

Re. Texas heat, I have not found ambient temps to affect brake heat much. For radiative heat transfer, delta-T is what matters. The GT350 front brakes can break 1600 deg.F, per Ford. The heat shedding from a 1600F rotor into 90F air vs. 70F air isn't much of a factor. Blackbody radiation does go up with the fourth power of temperature, so it isn't no effect, but it's highly unlikely that the braking system's thermal capacity is so close to max at 70F that you'll experience a new set of issues at 90F, if that makes sense.

I will be beyond happy if I get 12 track days out of the DSUNOs! So far I got 4-5 track days with the OEM pads, and 2 track days :shrug: with the GLOC. Lets see how it goes...

I mostly run in NJMP Thunderbold, and I think [MENTION=24742]firestarter2[/MENTION] the same.

If you’re looking for longevity in a track pad with moderate bite and great modulation, get the Raybestos ST43. They last FOREVER.

^^ yup! mine are wearing like iron

Arpa said:

I will be beyond happy if I get 12 track days out of the DSUNOs! So far I got 4-5 track days with the OEM pads, and 2 track days :shrug: with the GLOC. Lets see how it goes...

I mostly run in NJMP Thunderbold, and I think [MENTION=24742]firestarter2[/MENTION] the same.

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Yeah thunderbolt and lighting. Lightning only has 2 hard breaking points. Thunderbolt has more though

CSL said:

If you’re looking for longevity in a track pad with moderate bite and great modulation, get the Raybestos ST43. They last FOREVER.

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Any reason for choosing the ST43 over the ST47 or ST45? According to the Raybestos compound sheet below, this is what they say about the ST47:
"If you are looking for the most advanced performing road race brake pad, that will simply out perform all the rest, this is it."
Sounds like the winner to me. ;) Note that all Raybestos compounds look to cost the same for our cars so price should is not a deciding factor.



https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/images/raycomp2008_11_06_03_19_04.pdf

nordique14 said:

Any reason for choosing the ST43 over the ST47 or ST45? According to the Raybestos compound sheet below, this is what they say about the ST47:
"If you are looking for the most advanced performing road race brake pad, that will simply out perform all the rest, this is it."
Sounds like the winner to me. ;) Note that all Raybestos compounds look to cost the same for our cars so price should is not a deciding factor.



https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/images/raycomp2008_11_06_03_19_04.pdf

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A few reasons. Brake pads are like shoes so there is definitely individual preferences. I prefer a moderate initial bite and smooth modulation. I have spent time on Hawk DTC 60s and 70s, and the initial bite was too extreme for my braking style. I haven’t run the ST47, but I know some who have and the reports I got is the initial bite is similar to the Hawks I mentioned.

Guys I know run the 47s on their sprint race cars, and we run the 43s on our endurance race car. They are more of an endurance pad and it is amazing how long they last, without being overly harsh on the rotors.

Another reason is how versatile these pads are. They have great cold bite and work just fine on the street. I drive to and from the track and also don’t have a ton of time to swap pads between events. I don’t daily drive the car and by no means am saying these are street pads, but they are very versatile and really check all the boxes for what I’m looking for in a pad.

Has anyone sourced the small brake air dams?? I'd buy a set.

Got my hands on some brake duct deflectors. I'd recommend fabricating your own vs buying these (fitment is terrible), but I was lazy and so over fabricating. Between these and the ducts, we should be ready for COTA on the braking front. Hopefully no more surprises going into turn 1.







4in hose connected to the OEM duct leading to back of the hub


Not my best work by far, but not bad for some using all the wrong tools and having no welding experience. At leas that's what I keep telling myself.


Back of hub. I didn't remove all the metal so that I am not blowing air onto the back surface of the rotor. We want all of it to go into the inside of the rotor and then through the veins.


If all works out, I'll make some modifications and then talk to a proper welder about getting kits made if there is interest.

I like what I see. Ingenuity with the duct you fabricated and some absolutely superb caliper studs and sleeves. All of it, pure genius.

You don't have much of an angle on those ducts on the front to the intake. They look almost straight, so how will that help direct much more airflow? On the race car, you see its much more angled than what you did and will force a high pressure area right to the intake located behind the grill. (I'm just being a geek engineer.....). But I'm a EE, not a aero guy.....so I might be a bit wrong...

Epiphany said:

I like what I see. Ingenuity with the duct you fabricated and some absolutely superb caliper studs and sleeves. All of it, pure genius.

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That Caliperfexion guy sure knows what he is doing

DCShelby said:

You don't have much of an angle on those ducts on the front to the intake. They look almost straight, so how will that help direct much more airflow? On the race car, you see its much more angled than what you did and will force a high pressure area right to the intake located behind the grill. (I'm just being a geek engineer.....). But I'm a EE, not a aero guy.....so I might be a bit wrong...

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It's got more angle that the images show, but is a bit less than the race car due to my support rods. They've been installed for about a year, so had to work around them. When I ever upgrade the front splitter, I plan to get a new bumper cover. I'll do a proper install then. In the meantime, wanted to improve brake ducting for this summer. It's all a process

Getting caught up with your build now honeybadger . .. looks fantastic. I don't like the metal fin idea. I would rather make the fins out of Kydex or ABS in case they got damaged from track debris (exactly what a bunch of us did on the Focus ST forums, which worked great).

Dedicated ducting to the inside of the bell and vanes is the best way to go. Your upright mount looks awesome, definitely count me in for a set!