Just installed h pipe and active exhaust is acting funny

[High Velocity]

If the AE module springs are positioned correctly, check any/all harnesses that are associated with the AE. It’s been known that IF the exhaust is dropped that the harnesses to the AE components get damaged because the original Ford wiring is too short.

Even if the outer conduit “looks good”, the concern isn’t how the conduit looks, it’s the wires inside the conduit. Check for chafing, loose wire pins in the connectors, pulled out or broken pins and actual broken wires.

If the AE module springs are positioned correctly, check any/all harnesses that are associated with the AE. It’s been known that IF the exhaust is dropped that the harnesses to the AE components get damaged because the original Ford wiring is too short.

Even if the outer conduit “looks good”, the concern isn’t how the conduit looks, it’s the wires inside the conduit. Check for chafing, loose wire pins in the connectors, pulled out or broken pins and actual broken wires.

I will check this today and report back, just can’t figure out why it will go to all modes and then when I go to track it goes there but then kicks me back to normal.

And then sometimes not always it will say exhaust mode selection unavailable. I may have to just pull the fuse and lose the active part of the exhaust.

But can I do this when it’s turned off because it’s in the full open position?

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[High Velocity]

Well an update to this. I tried everything, fuses are fine, wiring is fine, valves are fine, exhaust valve relearn performed.

Dropped the exhaust for the 2nd time today to make sure the springs in the valves were seated correctly and they were. So Mach 1 mufflers will be going in the trash, I will be cutting the factory wires to the active exhaust and throwing away the harness and the motors.

After all that is done, I guess I will just order an aftermarket valved exhaust that uses one of those remote control valves. Will not be getting one that uses factory harness.

 

[TonyNJ]

Been down this road. I always install the spring in the actuator first, then snap it into the exhaust valve. Sorry to read you're dealing with this. Don't cut everything. Just get the bypass plugs.

 

[High Velocity]

Been down this road. I always install the spring in the actuator first, then snap it into the exhaust valve. Sorry to read you're dealing with this. Don't cut everything. Just get the bypass plugs.

Thanks for the advice man, I really appreciate it. It has just been so frustrating. But I just triple checked everything and decided to take it for a test drive and I have no idea why, but it's now working perfectly lol.

Just so I know in the future where can I buy the bypass plugs?

 

[TonyNJ]

Well, there's this thing, where you just relocate the actuators to a bracket but leave them plugged in...

https://www.americanmuscle.com/awe-...Qp5Pll-Q-CEvCYPqlKV5lJOt-JPV523RoCUe0QAvD_BwE

 

[TonyNJ]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/active-to-non-active-awe-valve-motor-bracket.195574/

 

[TonyNJ]

I can only find the bypass simulators for the GT350 which are a 3 pin module. G350 has only 2 modes, normal and sport.

Your car will have 4 pins for Silent, Normal, Sport,Track. I would think someone makes a 4 pin simulator, but my early morning Google search didn't yield any. Ymmv

 

[High Velocity]

I can only find the bypass simulators for the GT350 which are a 3 pin module. G350 has only 2 modes, normal and sport.

Your car will have 4 pins for Silent, Normal, Sport,Track. I would think someone makes a 4 pin simulator, but my early morning Google search didn't yield any. Ymmv

Thank you, that is good information to have in case I have issues in the future. I really wish I knew what the issue was but it’s working now.

One thing I will say is I was planning on doing headers in the future but after this H pipe, it’s plenty loud enough for me. I would not want it any louder at all.

 

[2015 Silver GT]

One thing I will say is I was planning on doing headers in the future but after this H pipe, it’s plenty loud enough for me. I would not want it any louder at all.

I was surprised how much louder my car got after cutting out the resonator for my Steeda H-Pipe.

 

[Steeda-Sergio]

Well, there's this thing, where you just relocate the actuators to a bracket but leave them plugged in...

I agree, going with the relocate AWE 1310-11022 Mustang GT Exhaust Valve Motor Bracket (18-23) spares you the trouble of having the CEL on. It can be tuned out by turning off the module, but that sounds like you have that plan already.

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