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vaeevictiss

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Summer tires are doable if its only dropping to 40 overnight. R2s would work as well. You'll sacrifice some grip until they are warmed up with either but unless the temps are staying that low/ lower all day the tire will be fine. Ive used both year round with mornings getting down in the low 30s even some high 20s during the winter.
I thought with these summer tires, once you start driving around sub 40F, you can actually damage the tires. Like crack the compound.
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I thought with these summer tires, once you start driving around sub 40F, you can actually damage the tires. Like crack the compound.
Was reason why I went the all seasons. I had summer tires on a Golf R that split. Drove to work and hit a small spot in the road. Was 2015ish so compounds may be better now. But I wouldnt chance it.
 

HKusp

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I thought with these summer tires, once you start driving around sub 40F, you can actually damage the tires. Like crack the compound.
I used to run Goodyear Eagle F1's on my GT500 and they stated not to drive them below 40 degrees. I did anyway. They never cracked or anything, but they were exceptionally slick until they warmed up a bit. I'm talking almost like- you are driving on ice- slick. The car was very predictable in how it slid and I used it to my advantage when merging, etc. It did freak a few other drivers out when I would turn left onto the 2 lane road drifting sideways at 25-30 mph, but I knew what I was doing whether or not the understood. :)
 
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Zrussian13

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I thought with these summer tires, once you start driving around sub 40F, you can actually damage the tires. Like crack the compound.
Freezing temps sure but if the temps are just dipping below that and warming back up each day you'll be ok. I have 120,000 miles on only summer and dr tires. First few morning that dropped in the high 20s had me worried but I don't even think twice now. I wouldn't beat on the car first thing in the morning if its cold and if you park in a garage on cold nights that will help the tires not freeze. I usually park in the driveway bit if its dropping below 34ish over night I'll take the garage.
 

tritonx

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Does anyone know if the passenger side JLT 3.0 catch can fit with this kit without extra hardware? I know some people use different catch cans but im just wondering if this will fit
 

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Nobuemon

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Does anyone know if the passenger side JLT 3.0 catch can fit with this kit without extra hardware? I know some people use different catch cans but im just wondering if this will fit
Yes, running it since I got the car, now with G3X, no problems. Not very useful tho
 

vaeevictiss

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Does anyone know if the passenger side JLT 3.0 catch can fit with this kit without extra hardware? I know some people use different catch cans but im just wondering if this will fit
Do those have a check valve? You need one on a boosted application.
 
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tritonx

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Yes, running it since I got the car, now with G3X, no problems. Not very useful tho
Cool, I’m most likely going to bring this to an installer so I’d like to avoid any incompatibility between parts and last minute issues. Thanks
 

Zrussian13

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Cool, I’m most likely going to bring this to an installer so I’d like to avoid any incompatibility between parts and last minute issues. Thanks
You can run it but it won't do much on a boosted engine.
 

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Zrussian13

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Yeah I know, I’ll probably swap it out later. Is it easy to swap that out once the kit is already installed?
Yes it is. I ran my 3.0 for a while but it never collected a drop after boosting it so I scrapped it.
 

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The UPR catch can works really well. Has check valve and easy to drain. I get some out of it every 3-5k or so. I change oil every 3k.
 

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Does anyone know if the passenger side JLT 3.0 catch can fit with this kit without extra hardware? I know some people use different catch cans but im just wondering if this will fit
It will fit, but it won't really do much. You will still get crank case schmeg in the intake manifold
 

Wolfys11

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Ok Cool. I'll look into some different tires and sounds like i can go with a basic shock upgrade. I heard the Ford racing ones are decent, or would i be better off with something aftermarket?
What springs are you running? Stock?
Ive got stock shocks with bmr 1” drop drag springs, i find that they do a lot for just being springs for traction

In curves, im sure track springs would do better, but the drag springs seem to do just fine

You can also always only do rear drag springs and front track springs for maximizing each for their intended purpose, as front springs being drag doesnt really help much for drag racing conditions
 

vaeevictiss

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What springs are you running? Stock?
Ive got stock shocks with bmr 1” drop drag springs, i find that they do a lot for just being springs for traction

In curves, im sure track springs would do better, but the drag springs seem to do just fine

You can also always only do rear drag springs and front track springs for maximizing each for their intended purpose, as front springs being drag doesnt really help much for drag racing conditions
I'm running the steeda minimum drop springs. They say it's only a half inch, but i think it's closer to an inch.
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