Skye
Well-Known Member
Check your rear end. It might be leaking. 
During a routine check last year, I noticed Skye's diff was leaking oil. Getting under the car, I confirmed the left side halfshaft seal was failing. Took photos, cleaned the area and left it. I had several things going on at the time, but I also wanted to gauge how bad the problem was.
Over Winter storage, it dripped once or twice. With that, I turned Skye over to the dealer this week.
The Powertrain Warranty is 5 years, 60,000 mi / 96,000 km. The Service Adviser said the seal would be covered under that.
While there, I asked them to service the diff. With break-in era over, I thought it'd be a good practice to remove as much of the crud as possible. I thought better to pay them for the service than DIY. That removes me from the equation if there are any diff-related issues for the next good while.
Halfshaft seal R&R: $0.
Diff Service: $190.
Monday AM: turn in. Mechanic confirmed problem by mid-day.
Tuesday...
Wednesday...
Thursday PM: Car is ready for pickup. While the dealer had the correct seal, there are several one-time fasteners needed; the dealer had to order and wait for those to arrive.
One drive home and another this afternoon, things seem to be fine.
I did pick up a few very light scratches on the side of the rocker aero panel, probably from people not extending their shoes or boots far enough out on exit. One wheel has a short, shallow scratch, probably from the impact gun. The level of blemish for either is something we'll see, being enthusiast. Passersby, probably not. You'd have to point it out to them. I'll work on hiding these later. Everything else though, everywhere I can see, looks as it did when I dropped it off, inside, out and underneath.
If you're in a repair situation that can't wait, you make the best effort possible. If the service can be scheduled, I follow these guidelines:
- Walk-in and discuss the situation with the SA. You never know what's going on or who you'll get on the phone. For clarity, I think face-to-face is best
- Never turn the vehicle in on a Monday, Friday or before a Holiday. These are their busiest days, when who-knows-what comes in
- Schedule a drop-off several days out, so they can pick a date that suits both of you. While it didn't work in this instance, it has past. You could also discuss any needed parts during that initial face-to-face
- If the schedule has been coordinated well on both sides, I advise them they can have the vehicle as long as they like
- At drop-off, photograph the vehicle from all sides and the interior. When the SA saw me do that, he also took a filmed walk-around with his tablet. I appreciated that
- If possible, detail the car before leaving it with them. I think any mechanic coming up to a clean ride is going to treat it better than something that looks like it was detailed last Spring
- Advise them you do not want the car washed, gas or other complimentary services
Edit,
When you do get the car back, check your pressures and re-torque all your lugs. Mechanics typically use an impact gun, not a torque wrench. While they secure the wheel well, sometimes, it's a bit much. I've had a few instances with other vehicles the lugs were on waaaaay to tight.
During a routine check last year, I noticed Skye's diff was leaking oil. Getting under the car, I confirmed the left side halfshaft seal was failing. Took photos, cleaned the area and left it. I had several things going on at the time, but I also wanted to gauge how bad the problem was.
Over Winter storage, it dripped once or twice. With that, I turned Skye over to the dealer this week.
The Powertrain Warranty is 5 years, 60,000 mi / 96,000 km. The Service Adviser said the seal would be covered under that.
While there, I asked them to service the diff. With break-in era over, I thought it'd be a good practice to remove as much of the crud as possible. I thought better to pay them for the service than DIY. That removes me from the equation if there are any diff-related issues for the next good while.
Halfshaft seal R&R: $0.
Diff Service: $190.
Monday AM: turn in. Mechanic confirmed problem by mid-day.
Tuesday...
Wednesday...
Thursday PM: Car is ready for pickup. While the dealer had the correct seal, there are several one-time fasteners needed; the dealer had to order and wait for those to arrive.
One drive home and another this afternoon, things seem to be fine.
I did pick up a few very light scratches on the side of the rocker aero panel, probably from people not extending their shoes or boots far enough out on exit. One wheel has a short, shallow scratch, probably from the impact gun. The level of blemish for either is something we'll see, being enthusiast. Passersby, probably not. You'd have to point it out to them. I'll work on hiding these later. Everything else though, everywhere I can see, looks as it did when I dropped it off, inside, out and underneath.
If you're in a repair situation that can't wait, you make the best effort possible. If the service can be scheduled, I follow these guidelines:
- Walk-in and discuss the situation with the SA. You never know what's going on or who you'll get on the phone. For clarity, I think face-to-face is best
- Never turn the vehicle in on a Monday, Friday or before a Holiday. These are their busiest days, when who-knows-what comes in
- Schedule a drop-off several days out, so they can pick a date that suits both of you. While it didn't work in this instance, it has past. You could also discuss any needed parts during that initial face-to-face
- If the schedule has been coordinated well on both sides, I advise them they can have the vehicle as long as they like
- At drop-off, photograph the vehicle from all sides and the interior. When the SA saw me do that, he also took a filmed walk-around with his tablet. I appreciated that
- If possible, detail the car before leaving it with them. I think any mechanic coming up to a clean ride is going to treat it better than something that looks like it was detailed last Spring
- Advise them you do not want the car washed, gas or other complimentary services
Edit,
When you do get the car back, check your pressures and re-torque all your lugs. Mechanics typically use an impact gun, not a torque wrench. While they secure the wheel well, sometimes, it's a bit much. I've had a few instances with other vehicles the lugs were on waaaaay to tight.
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. I stopped by the local shop and asked the older Tech (I've talked to him before ) , if I should bed the brakes the same as w new rotors , he said no . So I drove around and did what he told me to do .
