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Centri or pd for a 6 spd car

ShadesOfBloo

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PD especially if you are sticking with the stock rear end ratio. Rpms drop a ton between shifts
Especially that shift from 3rd gear to 4th. 😕
I have to wonder why Ford and Getrag thought that gap in the ratios was a good idea.
If I take my Mustang to run laps around a track, I need that shift to go well.
 
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Franky16

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decableguy200,

Excellent choice. Get that thing tuned by Wengerd and you won't be able to sleep at night.

Stage 2 Procharger is outstanding. 22K miles on mine and it's rock solid.
Yeah I think the centri with the 10 spd is a great set up. Pd with the manual is hard to beat. We shall see soon
 
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Franky16

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Now that the blower is on the way what brand of long tubes do you all recommend? Kooks, arh, stainless works..green cats worth the extra dough?
 

GrabberBargeCaptain

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Especially that shift from 3rd gear to 4th. 😕
I have to wonder why Ford and Getrag thought that gap in the ratios was a good idea.
If I take my Mustang to run laps around a track, I need that shift to go well.
i think it was to avoid the gas guzzler tax
 

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Franky16

Franky16

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No cats will be way to loud with my set up. I already have a rousch h pipe and active valve cat back
 

GR1MxREAPER

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The better question like everyone has asked is what do you want the car for? All that extra low end torque from a whipple is useless if your gonna mainly roll race or you can’t hook up at the track to use it. Whipple and ess are both great but if you have a 10 speed the ess is a match made in heaven. On a manual pick whatever is cheaper as 1/4 mile they are gonna run basically the same exact time if both cars are 750rwhp so who cares lol. A good tuner is more important with whatever you choose. I went ess with my 10 speed and the car drives 100% stock all day and when you wanna have fun downshift a couple times. Gf can drive my car and it drives the same as stock just fun whooooosh noises lol. She actually says she loves driving the car in sport mode when it downshifts and everyone stares at you lol..
 

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I was in the same dilemma until I drove a 6 speed GT with a Wippel, I didn't like it...too hard to manage the imediate boost for my admittedly meager driving skills...so I went centi on my Bullitt, much "easier" to manage the power which is linear and comes in "softly" higher up in rev range...I run an ESS G3X with a G4 Intercooler, GT500 injectors and a 93 Wingard tune on a 120 pully...works real good with no issues.
I've often wondered about this when I was considering which blower route to go. I too have a 6 speed and the MT-82 at least on mine likes shifts in the 3-3300 range for smoothness. Would I be in boost at that point with the manual? what does that feel like when driving? If you don't want to fight boost, are you forced to lower your shift points? Just thinking outloud.
 

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engineermike

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I've often wondered about this when I was considering which blower route to go. I too have a 6 speed and the MT-82 at least on mine likes shifts in the 3-3300 range for smoothness. Would I be in boost at that point with the manual? what does that feel like when driving? If you don't want to fight boost, are you forced to lower your shift points? Just thinking outloud.
If the tune is not terrible, the pd torque is completely controllable with the throttle.
 

robvas

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I've often wondered about this when I was considering which blower route to go. I too have a 6 speed and the MT-82 at least on mine likes shifts in the 3-3300 range for smoothness. Would I be in boost at that point with the manual? what does that feel like when driving? If you don't want to fight boost, are you forced to lower your shift points? Just thinking outloud.
It doesn't "go into" boost unless you are giving it a ton of throttle. There is a bypass valve that opens when the engine is under vacuum. That's for both PD and centrifugal setups.

You can get an idea of how much boost you will be making at that point if you look at a dyno of the same supercharger running the same amount of boost that you plan to run.

A good dyno sheet will show air fuel ratio and boost pressure as well as HP and torque (often it is in another graph below the main one.

You can also look at how much torque the car makes on the dyno at a certain RPM (like 3,000) and compare it to other dyno charts of other superchargers or turbo.
 

DTeal23

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I've often wondered about this when I was considering which blower route to go. I too have a 6 speed and the MT-82 at least on mine likes shifts in the 3-3300 range for smoothness. Would I be in boost at that point with the manual? what does that feel like when driving? If you don't want to fight boost, are you forced to lower your shift points? Just thinking outloud.
With your normal driving the car will feel the same. Drive calm the car is calm, you put the pedal flat the car starts to eat like a mf!
 
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HKusp

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A PD blower is totally controllable. I don't understand the argument when people say you'll blow the tires away. If your tuner has the pedal set-up correctly and it's not an on/off switch, and MORE importantly, you don't TREAT it as an on/off switch, the car is as easy to drive as stock. It just has more power throughout the whole rpm range, basically. You just have turned the car up a notch or two. It's not hard to control. Street tires will limit your ability to do anything too stupid anyway. Once you get a feel for the car after a couple of times around the block, you'll have it down.
 
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Franky16

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A PD blower is totally controllable. I don't understand the argument when people say you'll blow the tires away. If your tuner has the pedal set-up correctly and it's not an on/off switch, and MORE importantly, you don't TREAT it as an on/off switch, the car is as easy to drive as stock. It just has more power throughout the whole rpm range, basically. You just have turned the car up a notch or two. It's not hard to control. Street tires will limit your ability to do anything too stupid anyway. Once you get a feel for the car after a couple of times around the block, you'll have it down.
I went pd. Ordered a vmp stage 3
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