Question for guys who actually have the the Roush Kit

[Autopart101]

I get that, but is the Whipple 3.0 or 3.8 topping out at 950 or living "comfortably?" He's got a block that is capable of much more than 950 and is asking about running a blower that's capable of 950 and then adding a 150-200 shot on top or going with a 3.8 Whipple that with ethanol can get him there without the 150 shot.

I have a 3.8 whipple on 15psi making 953whp. The 3.8 Whiple can make 13-1400whp.

 

[The Watchman]

The ported Roush blower is proven up past 950 rwhp. It’s hard to get the rest of the car to work at that power level so upgrading the blower may be premature until after that chassis, trans, and tire are sorted.

@engineermike we already have everything in place, the foundation for big power is already there.

DSS 2k Axels
BMR Drag Springs
Viking Crusaders
BMR Everything Else in the rear end

 

[Autopart101]

@engineermike we already have everything in place, the foundation for big power is already there.

DSS 2k Axels
BMR Drag Springs
Viking Crusaders
BMR Everything Else in the rear end

10R80 car? If so prepare for the trans to slip above 850whp with a PDB. Finishline built 10R80 is 5k all in. Clutches, moded valve body , new drum.

 

[The Watchman]

10R80 car? If so prepare for the trans to slip above 850whp with a PDB. Finishline built 10R80 is 5k all in. Clutches, moded valve body , new drum.

We are t56 Magnum swapped. This trans will hold big power but probably not 3.8 Whipple big power…lol…

Eventually I will either go for a face plated t56 or th400 or powerglide

 

[The Watchman]

Are you trying to make 1000 or 1400?

Great question. I am definitely leaning towards the 3.8 Whipple.

Because I can pulley up or down and make 1000 or 1400+

 

[Autopart101]

We are t56 Magnum swapped. This trans will hold big power but probably not 3.8 Whipple big power…lol…

Eventually I will either go for a face plated t56 or th400 or powerglide

TH400 is the way to go. Built 10R80 wont hold BIG power.

I had a ported Roush2650 making close to 950 on a 2.7 pulley. Thats the kind of power ESSG3Rs are making on a 100mm pulley. I sure with the Roushes lower ported it would make more WHP.

 

[The Watchman]

@Autopart101 does Jokerz offer porting of the Roush lower manifold?

 

[Autopart101]

@Autopart101 does Jokerz offer porting of the Roush lower manifold?

The below company did a few years ago. I spoke to them on the phone and email. I never did get the lower ported. There was a Youtuber that had the lower ported and Jokerz inlet outlet and made 1kwhp. Now he also had a 5.2 predator short Block.

Stiegemeier Porting
2140 Old Hwy 94 South
St. Charles MO 63303
636-949-2275
www.stiegemeier.com

 

[downtoearth1986]

I have a 3.8 whipple on 15psi making 953whp. The 3.8 Whiple can make 13-1400whp.

How you like the 3.8L? I ordered one in April and it supposed to arrive next month per vendor. I hope it's the gen 6 upgrade.

 

[Autopart101]

How you like the 3.8L? I ordered one in April and it supposed to arrive next month per vendor. I hope it's the gen 6 upgrade.

So far so good. Going to test 60-130 this week as trans is broke it now. IATs are very good ŵith FI inter
chiller 50s or 60s in 90s weather.

 

[elsonadi]

I'm going to quote you in the main Roush thread. There's more visibility for Rousch-related issues here.





Regarding the P0112 code, I attempted to find some more insight on that, but my results were much like the following: "it's integrated with the MAF sensor", and not much more. And example follows.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mustang-gt-2017-inlet-air-temp.189983/

Hopefully, the questions will get some more eyes, with those having greater experience with Roush setups.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/attachments/obd-ops-alarm-thresholds-2020-2023-pdf.862633/

Hey, copied my msg from my post, but maybe somebody from there will help.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...losing-on-50-fault-p0112.218976/#post-4346234


So I've low power on my Roush Supercharger Kit in my 2019 Mustang GT. I was on dynamometer and its got only around 280km power while it should've 700km around right?

My car was front damaged. Not much, but still.

I had a damaged wiring harness in front (attaching photo), but I think I resoldered (connected) the wires correctly. I can check that again...

Regarding the IAT sensor, I tried checking it in Forscan with it disconnected and connected, but the error still persisted the same.

I haven't disconnected or replaced the outside temperature sensor yet.

Also got questions:

1) Is there a chance that the outside temperature sensor could be causing the IAT sensor error, or does that have no effect?

2) Is it worth checking the engine map? How can I check it?

3) I remember that the battery was practically dead during transport to Poland, so could that 'damage' the map somehow?

BTW: The IAT sensor cables (harness) are OK, and the voltages are working. The cables to the computer and the plugs are also OK. Replacing the sensors didn't help.

BTW2: I checked the outside temperature sensor and it's most probably damaged (when checked it shows a short circuit). I ordered new one. But could this affect the IAT sensor and the overall power issue?

Answer from ChatGPT: "Yes, the ambient air temperature sensor can influence the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor by transmitting data to the engine control unit, which uses it to calculate the intake air temperature. The IAT sensor then adjusts the air-fuel mixture to optimally utilize the air at this temperature."

Thanks for help.

 

[elsonadi]

Hey, copied my msg from my post, but maybe somebody from there will help.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...losing-on-50-fault-p0112.218976/#post-4346234


So I've low power on my Roush Supercharger Kit in my 2019 Mustang GT. I was on dynamometer and its got only around 280km power while it should've 700km around right?

My car was front damaged. Not much, but still.

I had a damaged wiring harness in front (attaching photo), but I think I resoldered (connected) the wires correctly. I can check that again...

Regarding the IAT sensor, I tried checking it in Forscan with it disconnected and connected, but the error still persisted the same.

I haven't disconnected or replaced the outside temperature sensor yet.

Also got questions:

1) Is there a chance that the outside temperature sensor could be causing the IAT sensor error, or does that have no effect?

2) Is it worth checking the engine map? How can I check it?

3) I remember that the battery was practically dead during transport to Poland, so could that 'damage' the map somehow?

BTW: The IAT sensor cables (harness) are OK, and the voltages are working. The cables to the computer and the plugs are also OK. Replacing the sensors didn't help.

BTW2: I checked the outside temperature sensor and it's most probably damaged (when checked it shows a short circuit). I ordered new one. But could this affect the IAT sensor and the overall power issue?

Answer from ChatGPT: "Yes, the ambient air temperature sensor can influence the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor by transmitting data to the engine control unit, which uses it to calculate the intake air temperature. The IAT sensor then adjusts the air-fuel mixture to optimally utilize the air at this temperature."

Thanks for help.

Probably fixed the problem.

Changed the outside temperature sensor (worth 3$) from bumper and the fault codes from this sensor and IAT sensor both disappeared. Check engine on indicators disappeared. And the temperaturę of Air dolot appeared.

Tried it while riding and the difference is noticeable. This is pure a beast now.

 

[acemastr]

So far so good. Going to test 60-130 this week as trans is broke it now. IATs are very good ŵith FI inter
chiller 50s or 60s in 90s weather.

Do you have hotstart issues with the chiller? Mine hates it but haven't been able to figure it out yet (not tune related, tried stock Roush and Wengerd)

 

[engineermike]

@acemastr what fuel pump do you have?

 

[acemastr]

@acemastr what fuel pump do you have?

Stock with a VMP BAP on 93