Question for guys who actually have the the Roush Kit

[engineermike]

Not hearing good things about the tuned roush has anyone had a good experience with a stage 2 roush tuned on pump gas I wonder ?!

I tuned my own Roush nitemare. This is a nearly 6000 lb 4x4 crew cab truck, and it ran 11.1 at 125 mph with only a few minor mechanical changes, but I did switch to e85.

I helped another guy tune his nearly identical truck on pump gas and he went 11.9 at 116. His stock Roush tune ran 12.7 at 107. The main changes on his truck were cam timing, shift points, and shift firmness.

 

[The Watchman]

Not hearing good things about the tuned roush has anyone had a good experience with a stage 2 roush tuned on pump gas I wonder ?!

My car is tuned both 93 and e85.

Where are you located again?

I’d let you come and test drive just to see how beastly this thing is

 

[Hammerhead13579]

My car is tuned both 93 and e85.

Where are you located again?

I’d let you come and test drive just to see how beastly this thing is

He is in Canada. He's a big boy he'll figure it out

 

[The Watchman]

Quick Question: I know most ported Roush kits have the Soler 103mm TB.

My question is do you still need the adapter to make the Edelbrock 103mm TB work like the Soler?

 

[SH!FT]

Not hearing good things about the tuned roush has anyone had a good experience with a stage 2 roush tuned on pump gas I wonder ?!

@Brady MacDonald
I run Roush P2 calibration on 93. The flash is from March 2025 (not sure if that's still the latest rev). It more than meets my needs when it's not pulling timing.

As robvas said, the tune aggressively dials back the fun as heat builds. Datalogging can confirm that this occurs disappointingly fast even during moderate spirited street driving. Interchiller solved that problem for me. It now maintains peak performance.

Post #13,433 and #13,442 are why I went with an interchiller. I recommend the stage 2 chiller kit and mounting it on a tube style front bumper bar if you decide to make the purchase.

 

[Autopart101]

Quick Question: I know most ported Roush kits have the Soler 103mm TB.

My question is do you still need the adapter to make the Edelbrock 103mm TB work like the Soler?

IF ported no. Jokez opens the inlet to 103MM. The adapter I had solar make was for a reworked GM95MM TB to the Roush 90MM inlet. I do think gains where made. I ran a 5.2 60-130 unported with a 2.7 pulley boost drops to 13ish by 5500rpms and holds to 7500rpms.

 

[The Watchman]

IF ported no. Jokez opens the inlet to 103MM. The adapter I had solar make was for a reworked GM95MM TB to the Roush 90MM inlet. I do think gains where made. I ran a 5.2 60-130 unported with a 2.7 pulley boost drops to 13ish by 5500rpms and holds to 7500rpms.

Thanks for the insight. My conundrum is if I port my Roush I don’t want to go with a cowl hood.

I will look into this more. I put a call into Ray @DRP Motorsports to ask him as well.

Ray has lots of experience with these cars and I’m curious what he says…

 

[The Watchman]

Yeahhh.....don't care. Cars blow up all the time for different reasons. Not even the same fuel, same blower, same tune, etc. Clearly, you are biased because you had an unfortunate experience.
My advise to the noob was based on my experience and my knowledge. He immediately jumped to "needing an interchiller" and I merely said he doesn't need one if he isn't racing the car. I literally italicized that in my previous post. I also said he needs to do his own research and that in the end it's his decision...
Also, are people opposed to saving money here? Wouldn't people want to keep $2,000 in their bank accounts?
Is everyone keeping their cars until 100k plus on the odometer?
I sell my cars every 2-4 years so I couldn't care less if the engine doesn't perform optimally when it's on the 4th owner...

Also...he never said he had concerns about engine failure

Saving money is always good advice especially in our current economy.

For me, I decided to go all in with my car and build it to be badder than anything I could trade up or in for.

I will be posting and asking for more input in this thread later on. But, in short, I’m not sure where I wanna go from here…

Nevertheless, I totally understand and appreciate your position and if/when you trade your whip for something else I hope it’s exactly what you are hoping for.

Cheers my man!

 

[The Watchman]

Gentlmen,

I would like your input on something.

We are preparing to take my build to the next level. Recently, I acquired a forged gen 3 Coyote short block.

This is a Texas Speed block with Darton sleeves and forged everything. I am looking to go big power and run well at the track.

I am considering doing a ported Roush P2 with like a 150-200 shot of NOS. The ported Roush will give me more power and the NOS will allow me to push big power down the track.

My other option is to go with a 3.8 Whipple with Cobra Jet lid and all the goodies.

What do y'all think?

 

[robvas]

Are you trying to make 1000 or 1400?

 

[HKusp]

That's a lot of block for a limited blower.

 

[engineermike]

The ported Roush blower is proven up past 950 rwhp. It’s hard to get the rest of the car to work at that power level so upgrading the blower may be premature until after that chassis, trans, and tire are sorted.

 

[Hammerhead13579]

I say go with what your heart desires

(Insert Fast & Furious quote about family or some shit)

 

[HKusp]

The ported Roush blower is proven up past 950 rwhp. It’s hard to get the rest of the car to work at that power level so upgrading the blower may be premature until after that chassis, trans, and tire are sorted.

I get that, but is the Whipple 3.0 or 3.8 topping out at 950 or living "comfortably?" He's got a block that is capable of much more than 950 and is asking about running a blower that's capable of 950 and then adding a 150-200 shot on top or going with a 3.8 Whipple that with ethanol can get him there without the 150 shot.

 

[engineermike]

For the record, I don’t think nitrous is ever a good idea on a coyote.