Question for guys who actually have the the Roush Kit

[engineermike]

Wow, E85 without a return style fuel system?

Yea, no sweat. I've pushed many variations of returnless system way past what most say is possible.

Roush F150, stock pump, 18v bap, 47# injectors, E85, 2.8 pulley.

Whipple Mustang GT, DW400, 22v bap, 55# injectors, E85, 3" pulley (900 rwhp range).

Whipple Mustang GT, DW810, no bap, 55# injectors, E85, 3" pulley.

Whipple Mustang GT, GT500 fuel module, 55# injectors, E85, 3" pulley, this one handles it hitting 85 psi fuel pressure with lots of spare capacity on the table.

There's definitely some tuning tricks to get there but gen3 doesn't really need a return style system until way past 1khp.

So would you say a 2.9 pulley or 13psi is achievable and reliable with 15.2V change to the fuel pump on 93? And is this something that tuners would touch when getting more power out of these blowers? Because I got a custom tune and picked up 35whp on a mustang dyno

On 93, I don't think the 2.9 pulley comes close to max'ing out the stock pump if tuned properly.

I can't comment of what tuners will do but in general they want everyone to upgrade fuel systems to something they have an existing file for.

 

[SH!FT]

To have a PD blower which never overheats even in the dog days of summer?

Yes, $3k and worth every penny....imo

I agree, but keeping goals and application in mind. Rolling back to your post# 13,347. No heat soak after multiple pulls back to back. I've spent ~$5.5k towards sustaining power (the chiller & assisting chiller recovery time). I'm happy.

Flip the goal to peak power on that budget.. chiller falls off my build list. Porting sounds like a great option. Modifying the airbox to fit VMP's ice tank is a fraction of the cost for temporary optimal conditions.

 

[SH!FT]

Wow, E85 without a return style fuel system? Impressive. So would you say a 2.9 pulley or 13psi is achievable and reliable with 15.2V change to the fuel pump on 93? And is this something that tuners would touch when getting more power out of these blowers? Because I got a custom tune and picked up 35whp on a mustang dyno

Check out the JMS unit. Super simple to adjust. Below is their optimal settings for the Roush making 12 psi. JMS confirmed it was fine to run these settings with the car stock before I installed the SC.

• 14.5v to 18v output
• 2.4v input trigger
• 0.8v ramp

 

[Hammerhead13579]

Btw I called both Kong and Jokerz to ask about porting on stock builds. Neither one answered and Jokerz even has an answering machine that tells you to email them if you want a response.
I'm not doing that. I'm over it now.

 

[engineermike]

Check out the JMS unit. Super simple to adjust. Below is their optimal settings for the Roush making 12 psi. JMS confirmed it was fine to run these settings with the car stock before I installed the SC.

• 14.5v to 18v output
• 2.4v input trigger
• 0.8v ramp

On the stock fuel pump I would not recommend going over 18 volts, and if you don't go over 18 volts I would recommend one of the lower-cost, simpler 18v variants like vmp/lethal/vortech (all the same thing).

If you went with the JMS I'd recommend jumping the two pins on the plug to make it just run 18v all the time and then tuning the fuel pump control so the FPDM can properly do its job.

 

[SH!FT]

I missed the first part. Thought Hammer wanted specifically 15.2v at the pump.

The JMS settings I posted starts the ramp after 1/2 pedal reaching 18v output by 3/4 pedal. I assume a 0v input trigger at 100% output would provide constant 18v, but yeah.. at that point it's $150 wasted.

My tacoma procharger kit came with the low-cost BAP, but their provided PCM cal. requires a 4 psi hobbs switch. That was annoying.

 

[Hammerhead13579]

Could someone please help me understand the differences between the 3 intercooler bottles for the Roush Phase 2 kit?
1. The intercooler reservoir bottle that butts up against the washer fluid bottle and holds the intercooler pump
2. The intercooler degas bottle (large)
3. The intercooler degas bottle (small)

What's the function of each of them? What's the pathway for the coolant? If the liquid level is good in the large bottle is it good everywhere else?

Also, from what I have read there aren't any visual indicators that this is all functioning properly, is that correct?

 

[SH!FT]

The install instructions show the IC circuit. The small degas bottle is plumbed in parallel with the return to allow for expansion so it might not indicate flow but is a good indicator that the return has coolant to gravity feed the pump.

 

[Skye]

I'm going to quote you in the main Roush thread. There's more visibility for Rousch-related issues here.

Hey,

I've got problem with my 2019 Mustang with SuperCharger Kit from Roush

I was on dynamometer and its got only around 280km power while it should've 700km around

I've got IAT sensor fault code P0112, it shows always 85 Celsius on Forscan

The other fault code is P0072

Replaced the sensor,nothing changed

Also on the counters in car I cant see the temp of the intake

The MAP wires (black,Red and Green) are all good plugged into right places

Also power is supplied to the IAT sensor

[
Hey, have the power loss in my VI gen facelift with a Roush supercharger. Got around 280KM on dynamometer and 380nm but should be probably a bit over 700km!!

I ran log tests during acceleration from 3,000-7,000 rpm (throttle opening, ignition advance angle, load, VCT intake, VCT exhaust) and it turned out that it's probably closing the throttle to 50% because the LOAD and TP values are half of what they should be.

The computer detects errors:

- P0072 (low signal value in the ambient air temperature sensor circuit)

- P0112 (low signal value in the IAT sensor circuit)

So it doesn't display the intake temperature on the instrument cluster.

Swapping the sensor to the left of the compressor doesn't change anything. Today I checked the sensor located in front of the compressor (boost pressure sensor) - its numbers are 0 261 230 280, and I replaced it with 0 261 230 334.

Furthermore, the three wires in the computer connector are connected to the correct pins.

And I still can't see any The throttle module itself, most likely the throttle body, which I spotted in the Roush Kit installation documentation.

Is there anything I should look out for regarding these errors?

Thanks in advance ]

What could be wrong?

Thank you for your answer. This is about the P0072 code, what about the other fault code with IAT sensor that's not even showing the inlet temperature on indicators?

Regarding the P0112 code, I attempted to find some more insight on that, but my results were much like the following: "it's integrated with the MAF sensor", and not much more. And example follows.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mustang-gt-2017-inlet-air-temp.189983/

Hopefully, the questions will get some more eyes, with those having greater experience with Roush setups.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/attachments/obd-ops-alarm-thresholds-2020-2023-pdf.862633/

 

[SH!FT]

@elsonadi Quick box to check is confirm you have a healthy battery. Not fun things happen when the battery starts to fail.
Is it a new SC install or was it running correctly?

 

[Hammerhead13579]

The install instructions show the IC circuit. The small degas bottle is plumbed in parallel with the return to allow for expansion so it might not indicate flow but is a good indicator that the return has coolant to gravity feed the pump.

I checked the install instructions a few times and I don't see any IC circuit. I just checked this morning and my large bottle has orange coolant and my small bottle has yellow coolant. So these systems are separate? What do you mean by "plumbed in parallel with the return"? What's the return?

 

[elsonadi]

@elsonadi Quick box to check is confirm you have a healthy battery. Not fun things happen when the battery starts to fail.
Is it a new SC install or was it running correctly?

Hey. What do you mean by saying 'SC install'? And what do you mean by 'healthy battery'? Thanks! TBH I replaced the battery and it's a bit too small, because there is some free space around the battery place.

My Roush Supercharger Kit was installed in USA, before I imported it from USA (I'm from Poland), so I don't know the specific info, though. As I remember theintake temp wasn't showing on the car indicators from the beginning, so the problem with IAT sensor must've been there, so, the lack of power probably was here from the start I've got the car.

 

[Hammerhead13579]

Hey. What do you mean by saying 'SC install'? And what do you mean by 'healthy battery'? Thanks! TBH I replaced the battery and it's a bit too small, because there is some free space around the battery place.

My Roush Supercharger Kit was installed in USA, before I imported it from USA (I'm from Poland), so I don't know the specific info, though. As I remember theintake temp wasn't showing on the car indicators from the beginning, so the problem with IAT sensor must've been there, so, the lack of power probably was here from the start I've got the car.

An old battery won't hold as much charge anymore and have low voltage. In low temperatures your car may not even start up. I've experienced this. Also, after a car wash my gauges would reset as if I disconnected the battery terminal. Other issues can occur apparently. I'm no battery expert but that sounds like it could be giving you issues if it's not the correct size/specifications for the vehicle.
SC install - supercharger install. He was just asking if it was recently installed on the vehicle and the issues have always been present to your knowledge...which you answered above I believe

 

[ManualMindset]

Has anyone gotten the boost gauge in the dash to work properly? I have a 2020 401a package on the latest Roush tune. I used Forscan to edit the IPC as built and shows in the cluster now. However it reads vacuum but stays at zero under boost. Sorry if this has been covered already and thanks for any help!

 

[Mr. Met]

Has anyone gotten the boost gauge in the dash to work properly? I have a 2020 401a package on the latest Roush tune. I used Forscan to edit the IPC as built and shows in the cluster now. However it reads vacuum but stays at zero under boost. Sorry if this has been covered already and thanks for any help!

Do you mean in the gauge cluster or the center gauges? I swapped in the ecoboost gauges and it worked right away.