Most Reliable 1500 hp Short Block??

[HKusp]

You should always buy a fresh block, keep your old one as a spare. I don't know what Gen3 blocks cost now but they were only 900 dollars and the crank was 300 back when I got my short block made.

When I did my short block, in 2023, the block was $1200 and the crank was $1200 from Ford, and I believe Summit/Jegs was the same.
Doug, that stock set-up, with the interchiller, should last a lot longer than you think. The weak point, at your power level, is going to be the ringland area and using the interchiller and E85 will keep it safe. You seem to have a lot of money to spend and certainly build in a lot of safety factor when doing your builds, but you also seem to be looking for a problem for the solution you already have in mind. Take the car out and BEAT ON It before you solve a problem that may or may not exist. Enjoy the car.

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[illtal]

When I did my short block, in 2023, the block was $1200 and the crank was $1200 from Ford, and I believe Summit/Jegs was the same.
Doug, that stock set-up, with the interchiller, should last a lot longer than you think. The weak point, at your power level, is going to be the ringland area and using the interchiller and E85 will keep it safe. You seem to have a lot of money to spend and certainly build in a lot of safety factor when doing your builds, but you also seem to be1 m looking for a problem for the solution you already have in mind. Take the car out and BEAT ON It before you solve a problem that may or may not exist. Enjoy the car.

He needs to replace the stock pistons even at his current power level. It's best he build for his level than patching a big problem with a peripheral component.

Also 10R80 is a big problem it won't last long at all at this power level. I would look into the BMW V10 dual clutch transmission or something similar that's streetable. Just depends on what he wants to spend..

 

[HKusp]

He needs to replace the stock pistons even at his current power level. It's best he build for his level than patching a big problem with a peripheral component.

Also 10R80 is a big problem it won't last long at all at this power level. I would look into the BMW V10 dual clutch transmission or something similar that's streetable. Just depends on what he wants to spend..

Stock pistons on E85 AND an interchiller at 850-900whp should live a long time. I agree that the A10 could be a potential problem down the road without beefing it up, but he's not at 2000whp. There are PLENTY of cars running around with an A10 at his power level.

 

[illtal]

Stock pistons on E85 AND an interchiller at 850-900whp should live a long time. I agree that the A10 could be a potential problem down the road without beefing it up, but he's not at 2000whp. There are PLENTY of cars running around with an A10 at his power level.

He's talking about 1300-1500 wheel. Down below 1000 it might live long and happy. But he's talking consistent 4 digits.

 

[HKusp]

He's talking about 1300-1500 wheel. Down below 1000 it might live long and happy. But he's talking consistent 4 digits.

Right. I was talking about his present build. He wants to over build it in order to not have a failure that he thinks is imminent because of running the stock engine. He hasn't run his current set-up much, and has no track time on it. I'm encouraging him to find out what he has and what it's capable of before he dumps $30k into something to have fun with, and be reliable, when he probably has a mid to low 9 second (capable) car that will be pretty reliable. A Low 9 second car on the street, with full interior, AC, etc. is a fun car for pretty much anyone.

 

[DougS550]

Right. I was talking about his present build. He wants to over build it in order to not have a failure that he thinks is imminent because of running the stock engine. He hasn't run his current set-up much, and has no track time on it. I'm encouraging him to find out what he has and what it's capable of before he dumps $30k into something to have fun with, and be reliable, when he probably has a mid to low 9 second (capable) car that will be pretty reliable. A Low 9 second car on the street, with full interior, AC, etc. is a fun car for pretty much anyone.

Agree, I plan to run 1/4 next month to see where I'm at Runing on my Hoosier TAP tires. Look, I'm not the person who does something without researching the limits of what I plan to do. If I want to run my current hp and future HP I don't have any doubt of the weaknesses within my engine and transmission at these level. I am a firm believer and know Beefing up my internal parts IE; pistons, rods and boss double key Crank will help save 10k if one of those parts fail versus just replacing them with a more performance driven part. It does come down to spending a little money now, compared to allot more later. But that's just the way I have always been. I am at no illusion that ever sock OEM car each have different life and potential. It's the throw of the dice and I don't gamble. I could easily build my stock block, heads Etc for 10k and the transmission for around 6k (circle D) and just have piece of mind that hopefully it last longer. I'm not going crazy for these gen3 have so much potencial from talking with reputable builders like MMR.

 

[illtal]

Right. I was talking about his present build. He wants to over build it in order to not have a failure that he thinks is imminent because of running the stock engine. He hasn't run his current set-up much, and has no track time on it. I'm encouraging him to find out what he has and what it's capable of before he dumps $30k into something to have fun with, and be reliable, when he probably has a mid to low 9 second (capable) car that will be pretty reliable. A Low 9 second car on the street, with full interior, AC, etc. is a fun car for pretty much anyone.

Right on

 

[SolarFlare]

Reputable builders like MMR??? Oh boy lmao good luck bro

 

[HKusp]

Reputable builders like MMR??? Oh boy lmao good luck bro

I thought the same thing.

 

[DougS550]

Reputable builders like MMR??? Oh boy lmao good luck bro

Luckily for me, I can build, blue printi, mod my engine myself. I look look into cryogenic freezing of Pistions, rods, crank etc and then match bore each piston to a particular sleeve for the most precise piston-sleeve fitment. I will also verify crank main journals and the rod clearances to ensure they are within my specs before final assembly. Don't assume your opinion of Over thinking, over reacting unknown failures as what others should adhear to. You do your shit and others do theirs, of course unless your going to pay for an engine failure from people taking your recomendations. I am not the person who puts 5 rounds in a 6 round revolver, put one rounds in it, spin the chamber, then play Rusian roulette. That's not me. But that's a good thing for all of us to do what we want to do and not what others say they should do. But, that doesn't mean having good, sound recomendations from experienced people isn't good, it is. But the final choice still comes down to the individual spending their own money for what they feel is best for them. But thank you for your advice.

 

[NGOT8R]

I’m not mad at ya for thinking this way. If you can fund it, do it! That’s the approach I had when I tore my problem-free MT82-D4 apart and rebuilt it while it was out for an upgraded clutch install. It was very expensive to do, but I didn’t want to just replace a clutch knowing the tranny had shortcomings, so I improved upon it as best I knew how before reinstalling it.

Peace of mind is important and I can % relate to that.

 

[DougS550]

I’m not mad at ya for thinking this way. If you can fund it, do it! That’s the approach I had when I tore my problem-free MT82-D4 apart and rebuilt it while it was out for an upgraded clutch install. It was very expensive to do, but I didn’t want to just replace a clutch knowing the tranny had shortcomings, so I improved upon it as best I knew how before reinstalling it.

Peace of mind is important and I can % relate to that.

You have sound judgment and I will take it out to track other than the street to test. It's a little sketchy on the street but I plan to test and see at what boost level it can handle with my Hossiers. Plus its hot and they stick very well. I also want to run at the 1/2 mile events for that looks as safe as it can be to open it up and have fun.

 

[NGOT8R]

You have sound judgment and I will take it out to track other than the street to test. It's a little sketchy on the street but I plan to test and see at what boost level it can handle with my Hossiers. Plus its hot and they stick very well. I also want to run at the 1/2 mile events for that looks as safe as it can be to open it up and have fun.

Good plan! I don’t know how the 10R80 cars work, but I do recall reading something about using a 2nd gear leave that can be done via tune. Not sure if this may help produce the best results for you, but it’s worth looking into for possibly a more controlled and less violent launch. Maybe some of the 10R80 racers can chime in with a recommended launch rpm for you with the Whipple.

I’m about to switch to a different platform for this next piece of info. Maybe some of it will be useful to you. This is my brother’s 2022 Chevy COPO drag car which has a 572ci naturally aspirated motor in it (making about 780 whp). He launches at 3475 rpm and cuts 1.29 - low 1.3 sixty foot times in it consistently. It doesn’t even look like a violent leave, but the car has gone as quick as a 9.6 in the 1/4.

Do you have a Wot Box or will you use the factory launch control? I’m not sure if your track would allow it, but if they do, maybe buy yourself a bug sprayer and some VHT (track bite solution) and have a helper spray it down between your front and rear tires as you stage, for extra grip and to hopefully eliminate any wheel spin. Once you get out of the gate, the rest should be smooth sailing, as the ECM does all the work shifting for you.

 

[SolarFlare]

Luckily for me, I can build, blue printi, mod my engine myself. I look look into cryogenic freezing of Pistions, rods, crank etc and then match bore each piston to a particular sleeve for the most precise piston-sleeve fitment. I will also verify crank main journals and the rod clearances to ensure they are within my specs before final assembly. Don't assume your opinion of Over thinking, over reacting unknown failures as what others should adhear to. You do your shit and others do theirs, of course unless your going to pay for an engine failure from people taking your recomendations. I am not the person who puts 5 rounds in a 6 round revolver, put one rounds in it, spin the chamber, then play Rusian roulette. That's not me. But that's a good thing for all of us to do what we want to do and not what others say they should do. But, that doesn't mean having good, sound recomendations from experienced people isn't good, it is. But the final choice still comes down to the individual spending their own money for what they feel is best for them. But thank you for your advice.

I have no idea what this word vomit is trying to put across. Sounds like you’re gonna buy an MMR motor to then break it apart and check it all again yourself. That says a lot about how much MMR should be trusted with an engine build. Again…you have a big imagination and even bigger goals, good luck.

 

[DougS550]

Good plan! I don’t know how the 10R80 cars work, but I do recall reading something about using a 2nd gear leave that can be done via tune. Not sure if this may help produce the best results for you, but it’s worth looking into for possibly a more controlled and less violent launch. Maybe some of the 10R80 racers can chime in with a recommended launch rpm for you with the Whipple.

I’m about to switch to a different platform for this next piece of info. Maybe some of it will be useful to you. This is my brother’s 2022 Chevy COPO drag car which has a 572ci naturally aspirated motor in it (making about 780 whp). He launches at 3475 rpm and cuts 1.29 - low 1.3 sixty foot times in it consistently. It doesn’t even look like a violent leave, but the car has gone as quick as a 9.6 in the 1/4.

Do you have a Wot Box or will you use the factory launch control? I’m not sure if your track would allow it, but if they do, maybe buy yourself a bug sprayer and some VHT (track bite solution) and have a helper spray it down between your front and rear tires as you stage, for extra grip and to hopefully eliminate any wheel spin. Once you get out of the gate, the rest should be smooth sailing, as the ECM does all the work shifting for you.

I haven't even used the oem launch control LOL, but plan to practice soon in a large parking lot. BTW; Can our cars, if you put our 10R80 in manual shift mode, select 2nd, when you launch will it launch in 2nd gear?

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