GT PP 0-60 times.

[B-52 Jetman]

Tried the 0-60 app again yesterday (GT, Manual, Base), still got some tire spin (on concrete this time instead of asphalt)...pulled a 5.0 flat. Once I upgrade to some wider tires, instead of these pathetic 235's...should be able to knock a couple 10th's off that time.

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[Sasuketr]

The magazine's had to use some another device to measure the 0-60 and i don't know how they got it but 4.4 sec 0-60 with a GTPP is freaking quick. Imagine if this car was only 200 lbs lighter.

 

[15GTBEN]

The magazine's had to use some another device to measure the 0-60 and i don't know how they got it but 4.4 sec 0-60 with a GTPP is freaking quick. Imagine if this car was only 200 lbs lighter.

I think 4.4 is reasonable if traction permits along with the correct take off technique. Given that you have the 401A with all the bells and whistles your is probably close to 200 lbs heavier than my non PP base 15' GT.
Like I said before, mine can do 0-60 4.8 0-60 without much effort and I have 3.31's. My technique is easing off idle quickly, shifting quickly at 6800. I could shave a 10th or 2 off that with practice for sure. This is my 3rd coyote 5.0, so not my first rodeo.
Remember cold roads can hinder traction. Factors like air quality and elevation can effect acceleration as well.

 

[Sasuketr]

A base gtpp weights around 3740 lbs, mine is scaled at 3815 lbs. There is no 200 lbs difference between a fully loaded car and a base model. The fully loaded limited editions might weight around 3840 with ACC, auto trans, bigger wheels and all that chrome. Now, shedding 80 lbs is no big deal with lighter tires and a cat back.

 

[15GTBEN]

A base gtpp weights around 3740 lbs, mine is scaled at 3815 lbs. There is no 200 lbs difference between a fully loaded car and a base model. The fully loaded limited editions might weight around 3840 with ACC, auto trans, bigger wheels and all that chrome. Now, shedding 80 lbs is no big deal with lighter tires and a cat back.

I have the non PP.
According to BMR (see post #12) the non PP base 6M is notably lighter than the base PP. Fully loaded PP 200lbs difference was a rough estimate but the base non PP is a good bit lighter for sure at around 3650.
http://www.*******************/forums/showthread.php?1045000-2015-Mustang-Component-Weights-Thread
I guess these forums don't let you post link from other forums?
Those whose are interested, it is the 2015 Mustang Components Weights Thread on SVTperformance forums.

 

[Sasuketr]

On BMR's website they say it was scaled right at 3705 lbs which Ford indicated. To go down on weight they pretty much took out carpetting, insulation, passenger and back seats as well. Fords claim of a base gt with 3705 lbs is spot on. Now, Motortrend got 4.4 sec with a 3810lbs pound car, which is really impressive.

 

[15GTBEN]

On BMR's website they say it was scaled right at 3705 lbs which Ford indicated. To go down on weight they pretty much took out carpetting, insulation, passenger and back seats as well. Fords claim of a base gt with 3705 lbs is spot on. Now, Motortrend got 4.4 sec with a 3810lbs pound car, which is really impressive.

I hear you; however, on post #8, BMR said they got 3736 for a 2015 Manual Trans, Performance Pack - Full Tank and 3704lbs for a 2015 Auto Trans(non PP), BASE Full Tank with nothing else removed. My car is a base GT non PP and is a manual weighting less than the non PP auto with an estimated weight of 3650 (see post #12 from BMR)

My point is the Performance pack adds weight as does the premium package and or auto over a 300a base.

 

[cp5899]

I don't see the 4.4 number happening with the track app in my car. This is my first coyote, but no where close to my first performance vehicle. I have been drag racing over 20 years so I feel I am able to shift pretty fast and the take off is on the limits of tire spin and traction. Not sure what else I can do and my best is 5.3. My quarter mile shows 13.8's which is no where close to right. I've raced some local guys that run in the high 12's and 13.0 range. I have run with or beaten them all, but one guy with a 13 mustang with tune, cat back and drag radials. He has been 12.3's and he pulls me on top. I have some videos I can post on YouTube. Point is I'm on him pretty good and no where close to where a 13.8 car would be with him.

I'm not buying the times with these apps. At least not at this point until I run a 13.8 at the track.

Car is a gt premium pp car.

 

[BoomBoy]

Don't some drag strips measure 0-60 time? You can verify/disprove the app against some third party measurement.

 

[Mustang_Owner]

I'm going to try to improve the 0-60 time by finding my old dash-mount 3-axis acceleration timer that I have not seen in many years and see what that tells me when compared to the track-apps version. I also found a place where I live that is a two-lane paved road in the middle of nowhere that goes nowhere and has no intersecting streets along its entire length. It is around 4500 feet long. I found a standard quarter mile track is around 4000 feet in length (extra long so the car has time to slow down), so this secluded street looks perfect to test my acceleration performance. I also noticed that although 1st to 2nd shifting is never an issue at any shift speed, 2nd to 3rd sometimes causes 'grinding' at a high shift speed. My best case 0-60 on track apps was 5.2 seconds on my GT PP.

If I slow down the shift speed by 'waiting' (after fully depressing the clutch pedal) some time before I transition from 2nd to 3rd, there is no grinding noise over 4500 RPM and the 3rd gear shift is clean. However if that 'waiting' time before going into 3rd is less than around 0.5 seconds, the car sometimes misses 3rd or makes the grinding noise for about 0.2 seconds before going into 3rd. Waiting up to 0.5 seconds to go into 3rd really sucks when you are trying to shave off 0.8 seconds off of your 0-60 time. Has anybody else noticed on very fast shifts (less than 0.5 seconds total shift time) that getting into 3rd at 6000+ RPM does not always work (because there is high resistance to go into 3rd, even with the clutch fully depressed) and you end up red-lining in 2nd?

I also noticed a 'thump' noise when shifting quickly that is not present when shifting slowly. For example, when I wait 0.5+ seconds after hitting the clutch before shifting gears, then slowly move the shift knob into the next higher gear, there is no 'thump'. When I wait 0.5 seconds after hitting the clutch before shifting gears but shift into the next higher gear in about 0.1 seconds, the 'thump' noise is present (thump is a low frequency sound that lasts for about 0.2 seconds and sounds like it is coming from under the car).

If I had 3.55 gears, I would not need to always make that 3rd shift since I'd hit 60 MPH in 2nd (at least for track apps). Since I don't want to void my warranty by changing the redline to 500 RPM higher for 2nd to reach 60 MPH, I keep trying to get into 3rd quickly. I expect the transmission to react much quicker than it does when going into 3rd for a performance car. I fear that if I force the car to go into 3rd when it is not ready, I could break something.

 

[Tommy V]

I'm going to try to improve the 0-60 time by finding my old dash-mount 3-axis acceleration timer that I have not seen in many years and see what that tells me when compared to the track-apps version. I also found a place where I live that is a two-lane paved road in the middle of nowhere that goes nowhere and has no intersecting streets along its entire length. It is around 4500 feet long. I found a standard quarter mile track is around 4000 feet in length (extra long so the car has time to slow down), so this secluded street looks perfect to test my acceleration performance. I also noticed that although 1st to 2nd shifting is never an issue at any shift speed, 2nd to 3rd sometimes causes 'grinding' at a high shift speed. My best case 0-60 on track apps was 5.2 seconds on my GT PP.

If I slow down the shift speed by 'waiting' (after fully depressing the clutch pedal) some time before I transition from 2nd to 3rd, there is no grinding noise over 4500 RPM and the 3rd gear shift is clean. However if that 'waiting' time before going into 3rd is less than around 0.5 seconds, the car sometimes misses 3rd or makes the grinding noise for about 0.2 seconds before going into 3rd. Waiting up to 0.5 seconds to go into 3rd really sucks when you are trying to shave off 0.8 seconds off of your 0-60 time. Has anybody else noticed on very fast shifts (less than 0.5 seconds total shift time) that getting into 3rd at 6000+ RPM does not always work (because there is high resistance to go into 3rd, even with the clutch fully depressed) and you end up red-lining in 2nd?

I also noticed a 'thump' noise when shifting quickly that is not present when shifting slowly. For example, when I wait 0.5+ seconds after hitting the clutch before shifting gears, then slowly move the shift knob into the next higher gear, there is no 'thump'. When I wait 0.5 seconds after hitting the clutch before shifting gears but shift into the next higher gear in about 0.1 seconds, the 'thump' noise is present (thump is a low frequency sound that lasts for about 0.2 seconds and sounds like it is coming from under the car).

If I had 3.55 gears, I would not need to always make that 3rd shift since I'd hit 60 MPH in 2nd (at least for track apps). Since I don't want to void my warranty by changing the redline to 500 RPM higher for 2nd to reach 60 MPH, I keep trying to get into 3rd quickly. I expect the transmission to react much quicker than it does when going into 3rd for a performance car. I fear that if I force the car to go into 3rd when it is not ready, I could break something.

Hey dude hows it going? I have never had any problems going into 3rd at any rpm, when going for 0 to 60 times i shift as soon as my tach turns red which is over 6k rpms and no grind at all.The only grip i have about the trans is shifting when really cold.Its a little notchy, but when warm it shifts good.

 

[Mustang_Owner]

I tried some 0-60 runs today for the first time since the last time my shifter broke. The shifter did not mechanically break this time, but 3rd gear did break. Now, when I shift into 3rd, the shift knob does go into 3rd but my transmission stays in neutral. 1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th, and reverse have no issue, but 3rd won't work unless I stay in neutral for several seconds, then very slowly go into 3rd.

I think this is related to the first issue I had where 3rd was near impossible to get into quickly. Now, the issue became much worse and 3rd is near impossible to get into at any shift speed. Back to the repair shop again...

 

[B-52 Jetman]

I tried some 0-60 runs today for the first time since the last time my shifter broke. The shifter did not mechanically break this time, but 3rd gear did break. Now, when I shift into 3rd, the shift knob does go into 3rd but my transmission stays in neutral. 1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th, and reverse have no issue, but 3rd won't work unless I stay in neutral for several seconds, then very slowly go into 3rd.

I think this is related to the first issue I had where 3rd was near impossible to get into quickly. Now, the issue became much worse and 3rd is near impossible to get into at any shift speed. Back to the repair shop again...

Sounds like you trashed the 3rd gear synchro...

 

[JoeDogInKC]

Jesus, quit shifting so damn hard.

 

[evo8904]

Sounds like you trashed the 3rd gear synchro...

I agree and it is just going to get worse. My EVO did the same thing but after 80k at 500whp.

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