Deatschwerks X3 Fuel system

[cbrtrx]

Indeed. I have this 6 micron Microglass one. The only annoying part is that they want you to replace it every 3000 miles when using Alcohol
Fuel Filter Elements

I run the same one. I replaced it at 10k miles of full E85 use. It still looked ok but that isn't always a great indicator. I run the radium bucket with the regulator on top and the pumps on full time set up as a dead head system. I saw no pressure increase at the rail after replacing the filter so I think the other one was still flowing well.

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[SheepDog]

I run the same one. I replaced it at 10k miles of full E85 use. It still looked ok but that isn't always a great indicator. I run the radium bucket with the regulator on top and the pumps on full time set up as a dead head system. I saw no pressure increase at the rail after replacing the filter so I think the other one was still flowing well.

Good to know. I think I have about 3k miles on the one in use, and at 55 bucks a pop, I'd like to run them as long as reasonably possible.

 

[cbrtrx]

Good to know. I think I have about 3k miles on the one in use, and at 55 bucks a pop, I'd like to run them as long as reasonably possible.

On my setup I use PTFE lines and I'm very careful with building them cleaning throughly and installing them so that helps cut down on contaminates. I also only use one gas station and even the same pump every time that has been known not to have issues.

I've taken apart a few filters and pump setups on other cars though that had heavy contamination and sludge in them though. Some of it I feel was from cheaper fuel line that breaks down over time and contaminated fuel.

 

[SheepDog]

On my setup I use PTFE lines and I'm very careful with building them cleaning throughly and installing them so that helps cut down on contaminates. I also only use one gas station and even the same pump every time that has been known not to have issues.

I've taken apart a few filters and pump setups on other cars though that had heavy contamination and sludge in them though. Some of it I feel was from cheaper fuel line that breaks down over time and contaminated fuel.

For sure. I only have PTFE line, and last time I replaced my pumps (maybe 3 months ago) the tank was spotless, and the filter socks were very clean. I installed new socks on the new pumps of course. I also now install these AN Seals every time I open a line or fitting. Cheap insurance and I've never had one leak

SECO 7, AN 37 Degree Flare Seal - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

 

[cbrtrx]

For sure. I only have PTFE line, and last time I replaced my pumps (maybe 3 months ago) the tank was spotless, and the filter socks were very clean. I installed new socks on the new pumps of course. I also now install these AN Seals every time I open a line or fitting. Cheap insurance and I've never had one leak

SECO 7, AN 37 Degree Flare Seal - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

I had to use those seals in the past on the crappy fittings fore supplied, they leaked. After changing to better quality fittings I never had to use those again even after taking them apart many times.

 

[SheepDog]

I had to use those seals in the past on the crappy fittings fore supplied, they leaked. After changing to better quality fittings I never had to use those again even after taking them apart many times.

yup, the only ones I've had problems with, were the ones originally supplied by Lethal Performance (made by Fore) so after having fuel piss all over the top of the tank and turn my car into a rolling Molotov cocktail, I don't take chances anymore. I keep extras and some AN wrenches in the tunk just in case.

 

[NGOT8R]

This is the first I’ve ever heard of AN flare seals. Good to know though. I’ll know what to do if I encounter any issues.

 

[CarlC]

My next pump replacement, I'm going to install 2x of the 295 version, that doesn't have the check valves in place, then install another Radium check valve right after my inline fuel filter. This way, if one pump shits the bed, the other pump will just back-feed through the dead pump and kill the engine. One of the main issues with these dual/triple pump setups is that there is no warning or way to monitor the pumps, so if one dies, your motor still runs on the functional pump, but when you go WOT, you melt a piston.

That may, or may not, work. Though fuel will backfeed there are still restrictions that will create pressure. In a CTS-V2 fuel pump if one of the stock pumps stops running the full-speed remaining pump will still provide 30psi. Testing is needed to know for sure.

If the cracking pressure of the Radium in-hat regulator can be turned up to about 85psi it should work fine for safety overpressure. The main goal here is to keep the cracking pressure below 100psi and above the maximum ECM commanded fuel pressure.

AN flare seals, AKA AN conical seals, are wonderful especially on stainless brake lines. Aircraft Spruce is usually a good source.

The SmartRamp can be tied into either the FSCM or the VaporWorx controller. One ground wire, one wire to the FSCM, and one to the JMS red input wire. Specific programming of the JMS is needed. No Hobb's, relays, etc. If it were me I'd tie it into the FSCM side.

 

[SheepDog]

That may, or may not, work. Though fuel will backfeed there are still restrictions that will create pressure. In a CTS-V2 fuel pump if one of the stock pumps stops running the full-speed remaining pump will still provide 30psi. Testing is needed to know for sure.

I guess the only way to know for sure, is install as I intended, and then disconnect the power to one of the pumps while the engine is running and see if the motor dies? (with full system voltage going to the pumps, not the reduced voltage from the controller being hooked up to the MAP sensor at Idle, and increase the pressure in the regulator with a Mightyvac to simulate boost pressure)

It would be great to be able to monitor amperage at each pump somehow but I don't know if this is possible.

 

[cbrtrx]

These are definitely things to test, I have seen in some applications where one pump drops out and the pressure does flow back through the bad pump but it will still have about 25 to 30 psi of overall pressure and the car may still run and not just turn off. It probably wouldn't restart very easily though with only 25 psi.

Also I know of many running a dead head radium system with a dedicated check ball valve in-line and I'm sure the pressure could get high in hot conditions after use yet they have no issues restarting, I'm sure the DI injection on the gen 3 is partially why there isn't an issue there.

 

[CarlC]

Correct on the DI, but I'd much rather not have 200+psi on the lines. I've had customers swear there was no fuel pressure/car won't start, but after taking a very close look at the engine compartment mounted fuel pressure gauge the needle was pegged on the opposite side of the stop pin @ 150psi. Every OEM, even on DI only engines, have overpressure regulators.

 

[SheepDog]

I'd much rather not have 200+psi on the lines.

This isn't an issue with a return system though. The pressure bleeds off through the pressure regulator back to the tank. I have a check valve right before my Y block coming from the pumps, so it keeps pressure in the feed line, but there is no pressure in the rails, cross over tube, or line that goes to the DI pump.

 

[CarlC]

We're talking two different systems, electronic vs mechanical regulation.

 

[SheepDog]

We're talking two different systems, electronic vs mechanical regulation.

Right.

It would be great if you started a new thread, for discussion around all things Vaporworx, PWM, fuel systems etc. I think we have completely derailed OP's Deatchwerks thread at this point.

 

[SheepDog]

These are definitely things to test

I'd just like a sure-fire way to protect the motor when one pump decides to check out. Most people on here (with Forced Induction) are running return systems, so it would be great to have a failsafe that doesn't rely on electronics or gauges. Although, if there were some way to monitor the draw/amperage on each pump, that would be better than nothing. Hopefully this PWM controller does help with pump longevity. I haven't seen any difference in fuel temps from when I was using the standard dumb relay "controllers". I think most of the heat in the fuel is just from passing through the hot fuel rails and the heat of the engine in general.

If I had to do it all over again, I would have gone with the KPM system and been done with it, but now can't really justify the cost of scrapping what I have (as I assume most others with return systems would agree)

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