Tapping sound after timing chain job

[Deca]

Hey folks- I changed timing chains, tensioners, guides, cam phasers, lash adjusters, roller fingers - the whole thing. Took my time, by the book, buttoned everything up correctly, oil pressurized through the oil sensor hole and it fired up perfectly, no CEL. One of the cam phasers failed, so I went ahead and replaced the lot.

but… I havent driven the thing for a year now and I can’t really remember how noisy it was, have a feeling the engine is being very/too loud, sort of tapping…I’ve added a video- what’s your take? This is after about 60miles

many thanks

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[526 HRSE]

Did you swap in a diesel motor?

 

[SheepDog]

Not normal. Is there oil in it?

 

[Cobra Jet]

If it has not been started in over a year, all the oil went to the bottom.

Usually with any vehicle that has sat that long or longer, you should either manually turn over the engine (remove spark plugs and attach breaker bar to crank and manually rotate it a few times) OR disconnect distributor coil wire (on vehicles w/ dizzys) or disconnect coil packs and then crank engine over so it just rotates a few cycles. You want to prime the oil pump and engine by pumping oil throughout the block/heads etc., then reconnect coil wire or coils and fire it up.

At least that is how I’ve always approached trying to start vehicles that have been sitting for a year or years.

I’m sure others have different methods of priming before starting a vehicle that has sat some time.

 

[Skye]

My initial thought is, if you aren't seeing other tells: perform a compression test; it'll confirm all the prior work is still sound, or if not, narrow the focus to one (?) cylinder or one bank.

 

[Deca]

If it has not been started in over a year, all the oil went to the bottom.

Usually with any vehicle that has sat that long or longer, you should either manually turn over the engine (remove spark plugs and attach breaker bar to crank and manually rotate it a few times) OR disconnect distributor coil wire (on vehicles w/ dizzys) or disconnect coil packs and then crank engine over so it just rotates a few cycles. You want to prime the oil pump and engine by pumping oil throughout the block/heads etc., then reconnect coil wire or coils and fire it up.

At least that is how I’ve always approached trying to start vehicles that have been sitting for a year or years.

I’m sure others have different methods of priming before starting a vehicle that has sat some time.

yeah sry for not being clear- The car sat for about a year so I cannot recall how loud the engine is (including me taking months replacing timing chains/vct etc), but before starting I primed the engine properly and did the crank/pressure buildup trick- so it’s well lubricated and primed before starting first time since the timing chain job.

 

[Timbuck]

I’ve just built a sleeved motor with all new timing components as you have done. That is not normal. Something is not right.
I’ve listened to that video a bunch , it almost sounds like one chain is loose Or tensioner is not doing it job.

with bonnet open can you pinpoint The area where the sound is coming from ?? Maybe using an engine stethoscope.

what..chains , guides , tensioners etc did you use ?

 

[Deca]

I’ve just built a sleeved motor with all new timing components as you have done. That is not normal. Something is not right.
I’ve listened to that video a bunch , it almost sounds like one chain is loose Or tensioner is not doing it job.

with bonnet open can you pinpoint The area where the sound is coming from ?? Maybe using an engine stethoscope.

what..chains , guides , tensioners etc did you use ?

Will be going at it with a stethoscope tomorrow. Used ford performance kit M-6004-A5015B that states 5.0 but dealer told me it’s a fit after giving him my VIN- but now I’m thinking….

 

[SheepDog]

Will be going at it with a stethoscope tomorrow. Used ford performance kit M-6004-A5015B that states 5.0 but dealer told me it’s a fit after giving him my VIN- but now I’m thinking….

It sounds to me like a tensioner isn't tight. Are you sure you removed the keeper pins/clips after installing them?

 

[Timbuck]

mine is gen2 , 2017

i did have a couple of minor problems with my assembly. I was going to use the upper MMR flip bracket but the top tensioner guide wouldn’t work with the ones I got as they were very loose fitting and didn’t seem right. And could move the chains side to side about 5mm or more And up and down. you Could rattle the guide.

Then once I opened the ford performance tensioners I found they where to long as seen in attached pic.
lucky enough I got another set of tensioners with the correct length , but I soon found the top guide didn’t fit right either.. it was loose And would allow the chain to move around Much more than I’d like. I discarded the cream/yellow guide and I ended up using the original top guides from the old tensioners , on the new ones. They only had 20,000 kms on them and didn’t have any wear marks.

im not saying this is it , but worth thinking about something simple like this. What’s in the packet doesn’t always mean it the correct part. my part fit , but I didn’t like the movement they allowed.

it was only my gut feel that made me change it. This was my first ever engine build.

 

[K4fxd]

Don't they use oil pressure for tension? Or am I thinking of the other tensioners.

 

[Timbuck]

Don't they use oil pressure for tension? Or am I thinking of the other tensioners.

100% yes , but also have an spring to hold some tension at rest. That’s why you have to pull the pin once installed. The newer style boss one have a rachet mechanism So if you loose oil pressure your chains stay tight… that’s on the main chains only.

 

[ice445]

My vote is also a tensioner that isn't participating

 

[Deca]

mine is gen2 , 2017

i did have a couple of minor problems with my assembly. I was going to use the upper MMR flip bracket but the top tensioner guide wouldn’t work with the ones I got as they were very loose fitting and didn’t seem right. And could move the chains side to side about 5mm or more And up and down. you Could rattle the guide.

Then once I opened the ford performance tensioners I found they where to long as seen in attached pic.
lucky enough I got another set of tensioners with the correct length , but I soon found the top guide didn’t fit right either.. it was loose And would allow the chain to move around Much more than I’d like. I discarded the cream/yellow guide and I ended up using the original top guides from the old tensioners , on the new ones. They only had 20,000 kms on them and didn’t have any wear marks.

im not saying this is it , but worth thinking about something simple like this. What’s in the packet doesn’t always mean it the correct part. my part fit , but I didn’t like the movement they allowed.

it was only my gut feel that made me change it. This was my first ever engine build.

This was exactly my experience, the new secondary tensioners from the kit were shorter, same as in your picture. They would engage/click properly in the bracket though. However, the passenger side one didnt ‘pop’ when activated like the driver side, so hoping it is ‘just’ that and I’ll just have to replace with OEM longer style. I looked through the oil filler hole, but seems the tensioner is properly activated…should I go full MMR or better stick with OEM?

 

[Timbuck]

yeah that’s sounds the culprit.

go OEM.

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