Understeered and crashed, looking for advice moving foward

[leroychickencurry]

Your largest expense will be that rear 1/4 panel.

Some shops that can do Paintless Dent Repair could work that panel to remove a majority of the damage. However it’s on a complex curve, it has that straight, sharp “ridgeline” and when trying to do PDR, the process is actually stressing/stretching the metal as it’s worked. They will NEVER get that type of damage to be totally popped out like a door ding, not possible. There would be body filler (pro stuff, not just “mud/bondo) to level the surface.

It would take a PDR Pro most likely 12+ hours or more to work that 1/4 panel back just so it’s able to have filler applied for the leveling process to look “factory”.

Labor isn’t free. Most shops won’t invest in the PDR time, because it’s easier for them to cut the panel off the car, put on a new (or good used replacement) and then do the remaining body work.

To do that rear 1/4 right, requires the removal of the rear tire, rear bumper cover, rear taillight assembly, rear trunk interior panels, the 1/4 glass, possibly rear window, possibly trunk lid, all rear interior parts on that side of the vehicle, and other misc. labor intensive work such as drilling spot welds, removing seam sealer, etc. Not to mention the installing of the replacement panel, any welding/body panel glue, etc. before paint, then the whole prep to paint process.

That is where your expense is going to be and even just doing that rear 1/4 at a good shop, it is still an easy $7k +/- job.

—-

Now you can do some of the fix on your own and for less than the cost of retail.

Shop on this site (classifieds), eBay, local salvage yards and any social media you belong to. You can find replacement S550 body panels (fenders, hoods, doors, bumper covers) in your exact factory body color - and without damages. Look for your body color and get those used parts to do your repair.

Same is true with the light assemblies. Ford retail on the S550 headlights at one point was in excess of $1k per side. Prices have come down, but it’s still a lot of money to buy new from Ford. You can get used damage free headlights anywhere from $250ea upwards of $500ea depending on who’s selling it. Same is true with rear tails, they too used to be in the $800+ range from Ford, now you can scoop those up used for anywhere from $100-$200 a side or even as low as $300 for a set.

You’ll find you can fix a majority of that (excluding rear 1/4) by getting good used parts - and there isn’t a thing wrong with getting used factory original parts to save $$$.

There’s many threads on here and YT vids to show how to do a lot of the R&R on an S550, so there isn’t any shortage of the “how tos” to do things in your driveway.

Yes contacted some shops. The ones who want to replace that panel is estimating around 5k, while the ones who want to repair it are estimating at $1-2k. You are right, I've seen the youtube videos, it is a pain to replace that panel. Do you really think it would be hard to repair back to original condition? once I get new tires, I'll be able to go do in-person estimates

Sponsored

 

[Tucker80]

Yes contacted some shops. The ones who want to replace that panel is estimating around 5k, while the ones who want to repair it are estimating at $1-2k. You are right, I've seen the youtube videos, it is a pain to replace that panel. Do you really think it would be hard to repair back to original condition? once I get new tires, I'll be able to go do in-person estimates

No matter what it's going to be a time consuming effort to repair. Based on what I've seen in the pictures I'd bet he's spot on with the ~$7k - when properly repaired. Can you go cheaper? Probably. Can you live with a less than stellar repair? Only you can answer that.

Personally I'd be very hesitant to go with the cheapest option when looking at the overall value of the car. All wrecks will diminish your value to an some extent. However, a poorly repaired wreck will be way worse. Value will take a major hit, and future buyers may question the rest of the condition when a driver takes the cheapest possible option. Even if everything else is perfect I'd be asking myself what else was done to the lowest possible level of effort on the vehicle. Unfortunately that may be your biggest expense even if you're not paying it now.

 

[Torched10]

No matter what it's going to be a time consuming effort to repair. Based on what I've seen in the pictures I'd bet he's spot on with the ~$7k - when properly repaired. Can you go cheaper? Probably. Can you live with a less than stellar repair? Only you can answer that.

Personally I'd be very hesitant to go with the cheapest option when looking at the overall value of the car. All wrecks will diminish your value to an some extent. However, a poorly repaired wreck will be way worse. Value will take a major hit, and future buyers may question the rest of the condition when a driver takes the cheapest possible option. Even if everything else is perfect I'd be asking myself what else was done to the lowest possible level of effort on the vehicle. Unfortunately that may be your biggest expense even if you're not paying it now.

Think you mentioned state farm.they picked the repair shop classic collision.theyre a big chain of repair shops.it came out as new just front bumper and fender was 12.took3 months since caddy stopped making xts few years ago

 

[GTP]

@leroychickencurry pay attention to Post #73. All very good info.

The best result will be with new quarter panel. Expect to wait weeks or months to get your car back. At least you can drive your car until your turn comes up at the shop you choose.

Leave the body and paint work to the pros. You can do the mechanical parts swaps yourself and save a lot (again, as per post 73).

Ask around to find which shop fix the high-end cars. The rate the insurance company pays the shop is fixed, and so it won't really cost you more to go to the best place. But backlog time can vary a lot, so always ask about that.

My insurance pays $30/day, max 30 days, to offset a rent car expense. Since I had a spare car, they paid me the full $900.

Be glad it was a single car accident. That simplifies things a lot.

 

[IPOGT]

@leroychickencurry pay attention to Post #73. All very good info.

The best result will be with new quarter panel. Expect to wait weeks or months to get your car back. At least you can drive your car until your turn comes up at the shop you choose.

Leave the body and paint work to the pros. You can do the mechanical parts swaps yourself and save a lot (again, as per post 73).

Ask around to find which shop fix the high-end cars. The rate the insurance company pays the shop is fixed, and so it won't really cost you more to go to the best place. But backlog time can vary a lot, so always ask about that.

My insurance pays $30/day, max 30 days, to offset a rent car expense. Since I had a spare car, they paid me the full $900.

Be glad it was a single car accident. That simplifies things a lot.

I once had a car repaired by a luxury car specialist. They do not take insurance, adjusters adjust at your location, they do not report to anyone and you pay the difference in their hourly rate vs. what insurance pays you. It came out absolutely flawless and cost $850 more than the insurance would pay and was worth it 100%. They do a great job. Smart- instead of wasting time dealing with insurance companies and adjusters they spend more time making sure their product meets the standard.

 

[Oakley]

I once had a car repaired by a luxury car specialist. They do not take insurance, adjusters adjust at your location, they do not report to anyone and you pay the difference in their hourly rate vs. what insurance pays you. It came out absolutely flawless and cost $850 more than the insurance would pay and was worth it 100%. They do a great job. Smart- instead of wasting time dealing with insurance companies and adjusters they spend more time making sure their product meets the standard.

i like that. if its a car you really care about eating your hat to make it right again regardless of cost is the way to go. if its just something you'll get rid of some day perfection might not be required.

i'm not saying cut corners, just that if somebody does paint and body work on my car i want it better than the shitty job ford did when they are done and lesser shops might be fine with the abysmal OEM ford standards.

 

[TrueBlue22]

I have experience with a similar collision, except mine was caused by a poorly placed Michigan Whitetail Deer. Wiped out the entire passenger side of my 2011 Mustang GT Convertible. The door was fully replaced because it was easy. The rear quarter was pulled, re-shaped, and lightly surfaced with body filler. I’m posting the before, during, and after pics below. The repair was solid, although over the ensuing 10 years the clear coat has noticeably dulled out and I am considering having it repainted. The final picture is what the vehicle looks like today (Fall of 2023; accident was in November 2013). The filler layer is thin enough that a magnet will stick to the repair area.

I used my original wheels for winter tires until I “retired” her from DD duty in 2016.

 

[CorvZ061]

I once had a car repaired by a luxury car specialist. They do not take insurance, adjusters adjust at your location, they do not report to anyone and you pay the difference in their hourly rate vs. what insurance pays you. It came out absolutely flawless and cost $850 more than the insurance would pay and was worth it 100%. They do a great job. Smart- instead of wasting time dealing with insurance companies and adjusters they spend more time making sure their product meets the standard.

That’s not always how that works out, I came from that industry, and more times than not the shops that won’t deal with insurance are the same shops that overcharge for everything they do, which is why the insurance companies don’t want to work with them either.

There are other shops that over promise and under deliver based off insurance payout too, it goes both ways. The best thing to do is find a good reputable shop that has a warranty on their work, but will also let you walk through the shop to see their repair quality in process.

 

[IPOGT]

That’s not always how that works out, I came from that industry, and more times than not the shops that won’t deal with insurance are the same shops that overcharge for everything they do, which is why the insurance companies don’t want to work with them either.

There are other shops that over promise and under deliver based off insurance payout too, it goes both ways. The best thing to do is find a good reputable shop that has a warranty on their work, but will also let you walk through the shop to see their repair quality in process.

They absolutely overcharge for their work. In truth and in fact, though, when dealing with craftsmanship there is no absolute comparison between vendors. Why would I as a craftsman want to be embroiled in a constant conflict of interest with some damage appraisal and associated Re inspections, slow downs due to approvals etc. etc. if you’re good enough to not have to, why deal with it? That’s why they don’t work on gramps Hyundai Sonata. (I mean if the Sonata was special to ya maybe).

 

[CorvZ061]

They absolutely overcharge for their work. In truth and in fact, though, when dealing with craftsmanship there is no absolute comparison between vendors. Why would I as a craftsman want to be embroiled in a constant conflict of interest with some damage appraisal and associated Re inspections, slow downs due to approvals etc. etc. if you’re good enough to not have to, why deal with it? That’s why they don’t work on gramps Hyundai Sonata. (I mean if the Sonata was special to ya maybe).

So you know you were overcharged for the work performed, and are ok with that? I wish I had your money and didn’t have to care if I were getting overcharged.

In the real world, with normal people, overcharging doesn’t always get a better outcome. I’m sure you also paid for ‘shop supplies’ which is a scam in the auto body industry. But hey, so long as you’re happy paying too much who am I to say anything?

It’s not hard to find a shop that works with insurance that also does great quality work.

 

[Jaymar]

So you know you were overcharged for the work performed, and are ok with that? I wish I had your money and didn’t have to care if I were getting overcharged.

In the real world, with normal people, overcharging doesn’t always get a better outcome. I’m sure you also paid for ‘shop supplies’ which is a scam in the auto body industry. But hey, so long as you’re happy paying too much who am I to say anything?

It’s not hard to find a shop that works with insurance that also does great quality work.

Magic beans only have to seem valuable to the person you sell them to.

 

[IPOGT]

Yes, actually, I was. That car was a special vehicle and special circumstances. Best friend is a damage appraiser for a major insco for 29 years, knew where to go. The best painters usually are not in production shops.

 

[CorvZ061]

Yes, actually, I was. That car was a special vehicle and special circumstances. Best friend is a damage appraiser for a major insco for 29 years, knew where to go. The best painters usually are not in production shops.

Sounds like your best friend took advantage of you…

 

[IPOGT]

You are what you’re worth.
(not necessarily limited to money to clarify)

 

[shogun32]

I just had mine fixed. Swerved to miss a deer and rode a ditch then hit a pole. Took out the fender, bumper, headlight, door and part of the quarter panel.

Mine looked a lot worse than yours. Total cost was 6500.

That's stupid cheap. Should have been an easy 2.5x if estimated around here (NoVA)

Sponsored