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2021 Mach 1
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I thought Steeda says that the dual rates lower the car 0.75 inches
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AZ_Ryan
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- #5
Just to clarify my car has the Steeda sport magneride springs. I'm not super clear on what the difference is between those and the Duel Rate springs. The steeda site does not specify M1 cars in their lowering specs. But I can tell you that I had just barely 4 inches of clearance at the front splitter (before i removed it). My guess is these lower a non HP car close to 1 inch. It does close the wheel gap pretty nicely and I do not have any rubbing issues. All in all its maybe slightly more aggressive than I wound have chosen but it does look and handle very nice.
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AZ_Ryan
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So my Ford dealer is saying I likely will need camber adjustment bolts in front and control arms in the back to get the camber back into factory spec with these springs. At this point the alignment has not yet been verified yet.
Neither Steeda or CJ Pony parts mention anything about additional camber parts being required for the magneride sport springs in their discriptions, videos, or Q&A. So this really wasn't on my radar until now.
Can anyone running these springs with HP wheels and PS4s tell me how much it threw off your camber and if you needed parts to correct it? I'm hoping the dealer is full of s**t.
Neither Steeda or CJ Pony parts mention anything about additional camber parts being required for the magneride sport springs in their discriptions, videos, or Q&A. So this really wasn't on my radar until now.
Can anyone running these springs with HP wheels and PS4s tell me how much it threw off your camber and if you needed parts to correct it? I'm hoping the dealer is full of s**t.
We always recommend the Steeda Camber plates when lowering - they are not necessarily "required" but we feel they are a must-have upgrade when lowering.
NightmareMoon
Well-Known Member
If you need a camber correction reallly depends on your goals. More camber, while possible slightly out of Ford spec, isnt necessarily a bad thing, in fact the cat will absolutely handle better with a bit more camber. Ford specs are very conservative.
Ao camber plates are a nice-to-have, but not necessary, esp with only 0.5” of drop. You will need to get the car aligned to put the toe back in spec, and you do want to clock the rubber bushings in the suspension after lowering it, probably while its on the alignment rack. (Its the easist place to reset those bushings with the suspension fully loaded).
Ao camber plates are a nice-to-have, but not necessary, esp with only 0.5” of drop. You will need to get the car aligned to put the toe back in spec, and you do want to clock the rubber bushings in the suspension after lowering it, probably while its on the alignment rack. (Its the easist place to reset those bushings with the suspension fully loaded).
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AZ_Ryan
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- #12
Thanks for the response. My goal is not to wear the tires unevenly if possible. The springs where already installed prior to me buying car. So I'm trying to figure this all out after the fact. The PO confirmed they are Mangeride sport springs NOT the dual rate springs. The sport springs drop the car about 1".
As far as I know the car has not been aligned after the drop. So I guess that's the next step. I'm just curious if the dealer is correct about needed camber adjustment parts.
NightmareMoon
Well-Known Member
Honestly, I worry.
Your dealer mentioned rear camber arms. Thats not something ford sells and its not something you usually need to adjust the camber on the rear. Front plates or bolts, sure, but the rear camber has a decent amount of adjustment from the factory. I worrry your dealer person might be talking out of his arse or maybe just inexperienced.
Check the alignment. Fixing the toe is the critical step. Dial just very slight toe in on the front, and ford spec toe-in on the rear and your tire wear will be about as good as it gets regardless of your camber.
Camber doesnt kill tires, toe is the killer. Cambered tires still roll. Toed tires scrub scrub scrub scrub scrub, all the way down the road.
Bluemustang
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In my view you don't want factory spec anymore with aftermarket lowering springs. Part of the benefit of better cornering ability comes from additional negative camber. -1.5 is a good number to shoot for for a street car that doesn't see road course duty.
You won't need aftermarket control arms in the rear for that - rear camber is adjustable from the factory. However, lowering the car will add some negative camber by default. Take it a good alignment shop and tell Ford to take a walk. Hit me up by PM. I can give you alignment specs to take the alignment shop and make them align it to your spec.
You will need camber bolts, camber plates or to slot the struts in order to adjust front camber. It isn't adjustable from the factory. My preference is camber plates (stronger, safer than bolts) but you can get away with camber bolts for the street I guess.
Bluemustang
Well-Known Member
Yeah, these comments by Ford makes me worry. They should know these things. Take it somewhere else IMO. A competent alignment shop - not some random tire shop that only knows to adjust toe settings.
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