ESS Centrifugal Mustang Superchargers

[HKusp]

He needs to vape!! Making him crazy, but we're eating up big chunks now. FIC 1300'S and Fore rails in. New TB and intake o-rings/gaskets on.

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[HKusp]

Did you switch?​

No sir. I am helping Havoc_5.0 (Phil), get his shit moving.

 

[Proshop]

No sir. I am helping Havoc_5.0 (Phil), get his shit moving.

You rock sir!

 

[lkeltner]

Fit and finish on this ESS is very very nice. Coming from my Whipple install these kits are comparable as far as that goes.

Are those some vibration/sound deadening blocks that go under the intake manifold? My 17GT doesn't have those.....

 

[vaeevictiss]

Hey so just playing around checking things while waiting for my kit to get delivered. Messing with my OBD2 adapter and forscan and as I give it gas I start setting negative knock retard and heading into WOT it climbs to negative 5-6 degrees and I didn't get a chance to go full WOT (running 93). From what I understand this is a good thing and I should only worry when it goes into positive as that means it's pulling timing.

How does it know how much timing to add? Like id imagine it's looking for something like knock but wouldn't that be dangerous for it to just keep adding timing until there IS knock?

Anything else I should check/look for to make sure everything is in good working order? I'm not even at 13k miles so I can't imagine there's anything messed up.

Also, I'm currently using this catch can https://www.americanmuscle.com/jlt-v30-black-oil-separator-passenger-side-2018-gt.html

I'm guessing that's not the right one to run once boosted? I've seen some people suggest specific cans and other people say as long as you have a catch can you're good.

 

[vaeevictiss]

170

This the right one?

https://www.cjponyparts.com/reische...gt-2011-2022-shelby-gt350-r-2015-2020/p/RT50/

 

[jmagnus87]

Hey so just playing around checking things while waiting for my kit to get delivered. Messing with my OBD2 adapter and forscan and as I give it gas I start setting negative knock retard and heading into WOT it climbs to negative 5-6 degrees and I didn't get a chance to go full WOT (running 93). From what I understand this is a good thing and I should only worry when it goes into positive as that means it's pulling timing.

How does it know how much timing to add? Like id imagine it's looking for something like knock but wouldn't that be dangerous for it to just keep adding timing until there IS knock?

Anything else I should check/look for to make sure everything is in good working order? I'm not even at 13k miles so I can't imagine there's anything messed up.

Also, I'm currently using this catch can https://www.americanmuscle.com/jlt-v30-black-oil-separator-passenger-side-2018-gt.html

I'm guessing that's not the right one to run once boosted? I've seen some people suggest specific cans and other people say as long as you have a catch can you're good.

I do believe the tuner chooses the value for timing at WOT. The rest of it i think is run by the base oem calculations off MAF and other similar parameters. if you have a good tuner, you don't have to understand/worry about this at all.
i
One thing i will say is that @Proshop is right. Don't bother trying to reinvent the wheel with the addins, catch cans, boost guages, vacuum blocks etc. just simply buy the good stuff the first time and you'll save yourself a good bit of time and money. Ask me how i know
Also I'm running stock thermostat up north and my car is fine. But the 170 would likely run cooler. Won't likely change IATs much but the engine itself will be cooler.

 

[lkeltner]

I do believe the tuner chooses the value for timing at WOT. The rest of it i think is run by the base oem calculations off MAF and other similar parameters. if you have a good tuner, you don't have to understand/worry about this at all.
i
One thing i will say is that @Proshop is right. Don't bother trying to reinvent the wheel with the addins, catch cans, boost guages, vacuum blocks etc. just simply buy the good stuff the first time and you'll save yourself a good bit of time and money. Ask me how i know
Also I'm running stock thermostat up north and my car is fine. But the 170 would likely run cooler. Won't likely change IATs much but the engine itself will be cooler.

How long does the car hold onto previous values when it reduces timing for knock? Like if I do a second run 5min after the first, is it changing values live based on sensor input or does it hold onto a timing reduction due to knock on the first run for a while?

 

[jmagnus87]

How long does the car hold onto previous values when it reduces timing for knock? Like if I do a second run 5min after the first, is it changing values live based on sensor input or does it hold onto a timing reduction due to knock on the first run for a while?

I haven't had any knock whatsoever myself so I'm not 100% sure BUT what i CAN tell you is these values are literally recalculated every 2ms. Yes that's milliseconds. So you can see knock, pull timing then 2ms later it will go back to "normal" it's constantly seeking for good values for safety purposes. The "run" time doesn't really matter that much. The ECM is always calculating

 

[jmagnus87]

 

[jmagnus87]

My scan tool is much slower than the actual ECM but you can get an idea here of how much/how fast it's calculating a million different values

 

[GR1MxREAPER]

So for the guys that are in an area where 91 octane is all you can get, is getting a kit worth it? It sounds like the car is constantly having knock issues and cutting a ton of timing even on the 125 pulley at the lowest boost setting? I know no matter what that it will have more power then a FBO car but is it worth the $7-8k for 550-600rwhp on the biggest pulley and cutting timing running on 91? Anyone who has a kit on a car running 91 can you share a little on your experience. Car is a 2019 A10 PP1 with mild suspension mods and full engine bolt ons.

 

[LOL WUT]

So for the guys that are in an area where 91 octane is all you can get, is getting a kit worth it? It sounds like the car is constantly having knock issues and cutting a ton of timing even on the 125 pulley at the lowest boost setting? I know no matter what that it will have more power then a FBO car but is it worth the $7-8k for 550-600rwhp on the biggest pulley and cutting timing running on 91? Anyone who has a kit on a car running 91 can you share a little on your experience. Car is a 2019 A10 PP1 with mild suspension mods and full engine bolt ons.

Those seeing knock on 91 and the largest pulley are not common. Seems to be a few isolated cases.

 

[HKusp]

Are those some vibration/sound deadening blocks that go under the intake manifold? My 17GT doesn't have those.....

Yes, but I don't think a '17 would have them. I believe it's more for insulating the DI rails underneath. I took them out on my '18 when I did my Whipple due to the stock intake not being used anyway.

 

[GR1MxREAPER]

Those seeing knock on 91 and the largest pulley are not common. Seems to be a few isolated cases.

Oh okay that’s good to hear. What are people seeing for power? Can you get to 630-650 rwhp on 91 or is that a dream lol..

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