Can rev matching be adjusted?

[young at heart]

The rev matching on my 700 mile A10 Mach 1 seems way too aggressive. The car is bone stock.

Always in track mode if you attempt to slow down going downhill, especially if you’re braking, the car begins downshifting madly from 6th or 7th all the way to 2nd and shoots up to 6000 Rs. Sounds awesome but couldn’t be good for the car.

Any way to adjust the aggressiveness or maybe there’s a driving technique I could use? Maybe it’s the tranny and not the actual rev matching, and it just needs more break in time.

I could try another drive mode but I really like track mode and see no reason it shouldn’t work right in all modes. My 2020 GT A10 works perfectly in track mode.

Maybe being more track oriented the Mach is designed to be more aggressive and that’s how it is. I wouldn’t think the 3.55 vs. 3.15 would make that much difference.

Any thoughts?

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[I Bleed Ford Blue]

Try not using track mode. In track mode the shifting up and down is the most aggressive. Try using sport or normal mode on the street.

On my M1 I leave it in normal mode and just change the exhaust to track mode to hear that M1 specific coyote growl.

 

[Charlemagne]

Just learn how to control shifts with the gas pedal. If you stomp on it, it's lively. If you are gentle, only tickle it, it's calm even in Sport mode.

And the same applies for braking, depending on how high rpm you had just before that. If you're cruising in 10th and brake harder, I don't think it downshifts very rapidly.

It seems very natural for me in the car.

 

[young at heart]

Just learn how to control shifts with the gas pedal. If you stomp on it, it's lively. If you are gentle, it only tickle it, it's calm even in Sport mode.

Right, but it’s the downshifts that are problematic. Upshifts are good.

 

[young at heart]

Try not using track mode. In track mode the shifting up and down is the most aggressive. Try using sport or normal mode on the street.

On my M1 I leave it in normal mode and just change the exhaust to track mode to hear that M1 specific coyote growl.

I may have to resort to this and save it as “My Mode”. But I sure do love me some track mode.

 

[MLO 351]

The rev matching on my 700 mile A10 Mach 1 seems way too aggressive. The car is bone stock.

Always in track mode if you attempt to slow down going downhill, especially if you’re braking, the car begins downshifting madly from 6th or 7th all the way to 2nd and shoots up to 6000 Rs. Sounds awesome but couldn’t be good for the car.

Any way to adjust the aggressiveness or maybe there’s a driving technique I could use? Maybe it’s the tranny and not the actual rev matching, and it just needs more break in time.

I could try another drive mode but I really like track mode and see no reason it shouldn’t work right in all modes. My 2020 GT A10 works perfectly in track mode.

Maybe being more track oriented the Mach is designed to be more aggressive and that’s how it is. I wouldn’t think the 3.55 vs. 3.15 would make that much difference.

Any thoughts?

Mine does the same, particularly noticeable when braking on steep declines in Sports Plus or Track mode.

When going downhill try using less brake pressure, if you just touch the brakes and then release brake pressure, it will downshift once, then touch the brake again and release brake pressure again and it will drop another gear, it will continue to drop down one gear at a time as you are on/off the brake pedal.
Once you do this a few times, you get used to it and you can then use engine braking rather then the foot brake to slow the car.

Another option is to just select the right paddle shifter to remain in a higher gear as you go down the hill, the manual shift mode will override the aggressive downshifts.

 

[young at heart]

Mine does the same, particularly noticeable when braking on steep declines in Sports Plus or Track mode.

When going downhill try using less brake pressure, if you just touch the brakes and then release brake pressure, it will downshift once, then touch the brake again and release brake pressure again and it will drop another gear, it will continue to drop down one gear at a time as you are on/off the brake pedal.
Once you do this a few times, you get used to it and you can then use engine braking rather then the foot brake to slow the car.

Another option is to just select the right paddle shifter to remain in a higher gear as you go down the hill, the manual shift mode will override the aggressive downshifts.

Hey MLO 351, a couple of capital ideas! I will give those a try for sure.

Not trying to spread problems around but I’m glad to know it isn’t just me.

Realistically, I do have it in track mode and this would probably be beneficial if one was actually tracking the car and didn’t mind flogging it a bit.

I’ll tell you, these Machs are amazing cars. I just became aware of Steeda’s video of their Mach 1 at the ‘ring yesterday after TJ’s post. It’s breathtaking. It’s hard to see how a GT350 could put up a much better showing, yet these Machs are perfectly happy fetching groceries and running errands. Hard to see how the DH is gonna holeshot this car, especially at the price I just got my last one for. I’m beginning to wish I’d of bought another ‘23 to sock away.

 

[MLO 351]

Hey MLO 351, a couple of capital ideas! I will give those a try for sure.

Not trying to spread problems around but I’m glad to know it isn’t just me.

Realistically, I do have it in track mode and this would probably be beneficial if one was actually tracking the car and didn’t mind flogging it a bit.

I’ll tell you, these Machs are amazing cars. I just became aware of Steeda’s video of their Mach 1 at the ‘ring yesterday after TJ’s post. It’s breathtaking. It’s hard to see how a GT350 could put up a much better showing, yet these Machs are perfectly happy fetching groceries and running errands. Hard to see how the DH is gonna holeshot this car, especially at the price I just got my last one for. I’m beginning to wish I’d of bought another ‘23 to sock away.

Agree, they are great cars, fantastic value.

If it helps, the best drive mode in my experience when wanting a full automatic drive, is Shifter in D, and Sports Sports Plus or Race/Track Mode selected, this seems to allow for the smoothest downshifts, with a much smoother 3, 2, 1 downshift then other modes when coming to a stop.

In fulltime Paddle mode, Shifter in S and Race/Track mode provides the smoothest shifts, same as above with the 3, 2, 1 paddle down shifts working smoothly most of the time.

I found checking/topping up trans fluid and a KAM reset made a noticeable improvement.

 

[young at heart]

MLO, what’s a KAM reset?

Sorry for the thickness.

 

[MLO 351]

Keep Alive Memory Control module, retains learnt transmission behaviours.

Disconnecting the battery for 30 mins is one way to reset it. Do a search under the word KAM or have a read of the 10R80 thread in the Transmission section, there's a lot of good reading there.

 

[adeuel]

Track mode is more aggressive, but the shifting is more linear.
Sport+ has more throttle advance, making it seem faster, but not really.
The bigger concern to me here is that driving in track mode disables all the nannies and crash avoidance. Necessary on the track, but probably not smart on the road full time.
Try the exhaust change in MyMode.

 

[swoop1156]

Keep Alive Memory Control module, retains learnt transmission behaviours.

So I couldn't find the actual service procedure for the Mach 1 ten-speed transmission, though in the Raptor it's extremely specific about how to have the transmission relearn strategy. Just be sure if you do perform a reset, it may be way way more involved than simply driving around.

 

[MLO 351]

So I couldn't find the actual service procedure for the Mach 1 ten-speed transmission, though in the Raptor it's extremely specific about how to have the transmission relearn strategy. Just be sure if you do perform a reset, it may be way way more involved than simply driving around.

From what I've read, there are a series of techniques/steps that can be used to accelerate the transmission learning, after a reset. So far, I've not read that a relearn procedure is a mandatory requirement.

A relearn procedure post reset, appears to bring forward some of the basic transmission learning behaviours that would have otherwise been picked up by driving normally.
After several KAM resets on the Mach 1 and driving normally, then spirited after a short period, my experience has been that for an extended period now, the transmission is shifting better then ever.
Also noting the fluid has been topped up by 1 quart from factory levels.

Lastly, removing the negative battery terminal for 15 - 30 mins, appears to trigger a KAM reset, if the transmission had specific requirements for a relearn procedure than I don't believe Ford would have designed the KAM module to be reset so easily.

 

[swoop1156]

From what I've read, there are a series of techniques/steps that can be used to accelerate the transmission learning, after a reset. So far, I've not read that a relearn procedure is a mandatory requirement.

A relearn procedure post reset, appears to bring forward some of the basic transmission learning behaviours that would have otherwise been picked up by driving normally.
After several KAM resets on the Mach 1 and driving normally, then spirited after a short period, my experience has been that for an extended period now, the transmission is shifting better then ever.
Also noting the fluid has been topped up by 1 quart from factory levels.

Lastly, removing the negative battery terminal for 15 - 30 mins, appears to trigger a KAM reset, if the transmission had specific requirements for a relearn procedure than I don't believe Ford would have designed the KAM module to be reset so easily.

I may be thinking too deep into another process as this relearning procedure is one after resetting some modules within FORScan. If the KAM reset is just as simple as unhooking the negative and going that way - I guess I've done that a few times

 

[MLO 351]

I may be thinking too deep into another process as this relearning procedure is one after resetting some modules within FORScan. If the KAM reset is just as simple as unhooking the negative and going that way - I guess I've done that a few times

You can also reset the KAM via Forscan, I've done it via Battery disconnect and Forscan, I couldn't tell the difference between each type of reset, you would think the Forscan reset would be more thorough.
After a reset, the car shifts a little odd for the first 30 mins to an hour then seems to settle down to normal shifting after that. This is all just based on my experience so far.

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