First track day - Road Atlanta!

[jmn444]

You lost some camber by moving the caster up.

You can get more camber with crash bolts.

Not sure about the caster decreasing static camber, but he gained dynamic camber though...

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[NeverSatisfied]

Not sure about the caster decreasing static camber, but he gained dynamic camber though...

ok not sure how much dynamic camber increases with a marginal caster increase in these cars for road course steering wheel angles.

I’d shoot for significantly more static camber given the width and tire compounds being discussed.

either way the 10th track day won’t matter just take a temp probe.

 

[jmn444]

ok not sure how much dynamic camber increases with a marginal caster increase in these cars for road course steering wheel angles.

I’d shoot for significantly more static camber given the width and tire compounds being discussed.

either way the 10th track day won’t matter just take a temp probe.

Agreed it's minimal and more effective for autox IMO, but can you tell me how you lose static camber when moving the strut top rearward for caster? I'm still not sure how that would happen.

 

[fpa1974]

You lost some camber by moving the caster up.

You can get more camber with crash bolts.

For reference part numbers:

W715295-S439 -bolt
W520216-S441 - nut

You need 4 of each

 

[fpa1974]

Agreed it's minimal and more effective for autox IMO, but can you tell me how you lose static camber when moving the strut top rearward for caster? I'm still not sure how that would happen.

because you are hitting the strut tower sooner since camber adjustment is not in the plane that allows maximum movement (basically maximum movement is less than the circle diameter).

 

[jmn444]

because you are hitting the strut tower sooner since camber adjustment is not in the plane that allows maximum movement (basically maximum movement is less than the circle diameter).

ahhh, that makes sense. cut more!

 

[Kachow]

Question for anybody that Tracks as Sunday is upon me at Road Atlanta!

We are looking at temps of 29 - 48 on Sunday here in Georgia. I swapped the Cup 2s on but also have a set of P Zeros. I estimate the first session of the day will be @ 9:30 and temps will hover around 35 F.

Will the Cup 2s be grippy and come up temp after the yellow or should I swap the PZeros back on?

 

[pilotgore]

Question for anybody that Tracks as Sunday is upon me at Road Atlanta!

We are looking at temps of 29 - 48 on Sunday here in Georgia. I swapped the Cup 2s on but also have a set of P Zeros. I estimate the first session of the day will be @ 9:30 and temps will hover around 35 F.

Will the Cup 2s be grippy and come up temp after the yellow or should I swap the PZeros back on?

How long are your sessions? I’ve tracked the cup 2’s in 33 degrees while it was spitting snow, and it took 10 minutes for me to get SOME heat into the tires (30 min session.) I ended up switching to Super Sports until after lunch when the temp was mid 40’s with sunny skies. Even after the tires had warmed up, I was 1.5 seconds off my usual time.

If it were me, I’d probably go with the PZero’s if you don’t have the ability to bring both sets. Fun fact… you can get all 4 rims in the car plus all the gear you’ll need for a track day, but it takes some arranging.

 

[Kachow]

How long are your sessions? I’ve tracked the cup 2’s in 33 degrees while it was spitting snow, and it took 10 minutes for me to get SOME heat into the tires (30 min session.) I ended up switching to Super Sports until after lunch when the temp was mid 40’s with sunny skies. Even after the tires had warmed up, I was 1.5 seconds off my usual time.

If it were me, I’d probably go with the PZero’s if you don’t have the ability to bring both sets. Fun fact… you can get all 4 rims in the car plus all the gear you’ll need for a track day, but it takes some arranging.

Thanks Jon, my thoughts as well. The sessions are 20 minutes each. This will be my first time hitting the track in these temps and with Cup 2s. I am only used to the GYSC3. I know I can fit 2 in my trunk with seats folded, wondering about all 4 by putting them vertical in rear seats! I don't want to destroy interior.

 

[pilotgore]

Thanks Jon, my thoughts as well. The sessions are 20 minutes each. This will be my first time hitting the track in these temps and with Cup 2s. I am only used to the GYSC3. I know I can fit 2 in my trunk with seats folded, wondering about all 4 by putting them vertical in rear seats! I don't want to destroy interior.

I used to put a front rim in the trunk, then the three others standing up in the rear seat. That left enough room for a floor jack and all of my other gear in the trunk, then the front passenger seat free for other stuff. I found that black outdoor trash bags (55 gal) fit around the tires perfectly. I took an extra 4 bags for the return journey so brake dust from the original bags didnt get on the exterior of the bag somehow then get transferred to the alcantera.

 

[VictorH]

Question for anybody that Tracks as Sunday is upon me at Road Atlanta!

We are looking at temps of 29 - 48 on Sunday here in Georgia. I swapped the Cup 2s on but also have a set of P Zeros. I estimate the first session of the day will be @ 9:30 and temps will hover around 35 F.

Will the Cup 2s be grippy and come up temp after the yellow or should I swap the PZeros back on?

I've been to RA dozens of times and lots of time when it was cold or damp out. I don't think I'd worry about first in the AM temps, just don't do anything dumb, particulary on the out-lap. Just listen to your car and you'll be fine. The first session Sunday will be cold but once the track is into the 40s with some sun, I think you'll be fine.

It's too late now but I'd want some more camber (particularly if you stay with the Cups2, which are fine in my opinion), more like what your goal was -3.0, I run -3.4. I'd recommend cutting the strut tower tops, the nuisance of course is you'd need to remove the strut assembly (it's really not difficult). The eccentric bolt solution works too but you are going to have the tire even closer to the strut and front spring perch as you are tilting the upright/spindle inward. Cutting and moving the whole works inward if you cut the tower opening does not decrease this clearance. BTW, your toe looks just fine, front and back.

Road Atlanta is a great track with a huge history. it's not very forgiving if you make a big mistake and there are places where you'll see someone go into the wall and will ask yourself, "how did they do that?" So be careful, have fun and let 'er rip!

Edit: Looked at your post and it looks like they DID cut the strut tower tops! If that's the case then something doesn't make sense to me at all. You should be able to get A LOT more than -2.3 or -2.4 out of each side. I can't imagine the sub-frame would be that out of whack. I have ridden in a GT350R with Vorshag plates and he got -3.2 out of his, my neighbor had a GT350 and he got -2.5 with the eccentric bolts alone. Just seems like something might be off and worth a double check. I'm not saying your shop did anything wrong but based on what I've seen and though the Mach 1 (my car with Vorshlag plates) might be different, it sure seems like you are nearly 1 degree off what those plates are capable of. Vorshlag has really good technical support, might be worth a call if you're inclined.

 

[VictorH]

Looking at the picture again, did you say they adjusted the caster? I'm suspecting they did and wonder if that's why the threaded strut top is not in the center of the strut tower opening. I'm not sure going back to the base caster setting would get you that additional degree of camber though, maybe? Can you take picture of the driver's side too?

 

[Kachow]

Looking at the picture again, did you say they adjusted the caster? I'm suspecting they did and wonder if that's why the threaded strut top is not in the center of the strut tower opening. I'm not sure going back to the base caster setting would get you that additional degree of camber though, maybe? Can you take picture of the driver's side too?

You are correct! The tech said the Vorshlag plates had adjustable caster so she moved it to 8.5. I dont think she realized that it would negatively influence the camber. As to why she can't get more than -2.5.

Also, I recently discovered the part that the top nut screws on, the threaded steel thingy that rotates in a figure 8 as you turn, is hitting the strut tower hole on my passenger side! hits at full lock. I need to take it back to the shop, have her go back to stock caster setting, and dial in more negative camber. Not going to be possible before Sunday unfortunately. I've also discovered a weird clunking sound when approaching a stop from low speeds. Happens intermitently. Vorshlag says top nut most likely wasn't blasted with an impact enough. Crazy thing is, this shop has a GT350 they track. I think the tech is new.

 

[VictorH]

Yes, there should be no clunking at all from the front after the camber plate install. That noise I've heard before too and it was a loose top nut. The top nut that Vorshlag supplies has plenty of threads as the sleeved part goes down into the top of the strut rod, but yes it needs a good few blasts with the impact gun (not crazy though) and you should be good.

Not sure what the thing that moves in figures 8s is. You should have the silver top plate with markings, the red camber plate, then Y-shaped threaded stud plate, then then the red anodized top spring perch.

This is my car set at -3.4 degrees negative, with stock caster.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

You are correct! The tech said the Vorshlag plates had adjustable caster so she moved it to 8.5. I dont think she realized that it would negatively influence the camber. As to why she can't get more than -2.5.

Also, I recently discovered the part that the top nut screws on, the threaded steel thingy that rotates in a figure 8 as you turn, is hitting the strut tower hole on my passenger side! hits at full lock. I need to take it back to the shop, have her go back to stock caster setting, and dial in more negative camber. Not going to be possible before Sunday unfortunately. I've also discovered a weird clunking sound when approaching a stop from low speeds. Happens intermitently. Vorshlag says top nut most likely wasn't blasted with an impact enough. Crazy thing is, this shop has a GT350 they track. I think the tech is new.

1. I'd loosen nuts on the camber plate and move it slightly in. Forget the alignment. If you're that close I'd be worried about contact through articulation as well when at the track. You don't want to damage the strut shaft.

2. If you have a clunk, I'd find it before I sent it on the track. Put a wrench on the strut shaft nut, check the strut top hat to body nuts, check the knuckle to strut nuts, caliper bolts, anything they touched during R&I. Make sure it's not just the brake pads clunking in the caliper (not an issue).

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