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Jacking rail?

RagmopInKona

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What are they? are they needed?
And who manufactures them?
Thanks for your time.
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MAGS1

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They run along the pinch weld and basically give you more points to jack up your car. They also seem to give a little extra stability to the frame. Steeda and BMR, along with a few others, make them. I personally have Steeda. I change out my wheels and tires twice a year between summer and winter sets. Iā€™m able to lift one side of the car at a time with the rails. I donā€™t track my car but would have a similar benefit at the track.
 

AvalancheSVT

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i thought about making some of these for my cobra because of the side pipes.
 

kz

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You'd absolutely die without them and your car will break immediately (sarcasm).

I change wheels about once a week (which is more than most of the jacking rails users here all together), don't have them and I'm fine. Pinch welds are too.
 

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daSNAK3

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I have the BMR Low Profile and I love them, one of those I never knew I needed or wanted but now that I have used them, I am so glad I got them, lol.. Makes life a little easier.
 

Skye

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Agree, not required. But I recommend them, especially if you are DIY.

Jacking rails make it easier to raise the car, use jack stands, etc. They afford you more options when lifting the car versus using only the factory lift points. As an additional benefit, they keep the underside nice.

BTW, for any jacking rail, the bolts removed from the underside of the car were left by Ford. Ford uses them to hold cradles and rotate the car as it moves down the line. They don't reuse the bolts, for safety.

Yesterday evening, I installed a set of jacking rails, from Steeda.

This is my first S550. It helped to review jack points before taking delivery.

The first photo highlights the two rails. The shorter rail goes on the passenger side. The factory bolts are somewhat long and take a bit to remove, but it's easy. When installing the Steeda rail, put everything in loose, so you can move the rail around to get everything situated. Then torque down to 45 lb-ft.

The second photo highlights my appreciation for buying them. From left-to-right, we have the factory rocker panel moldings, the pinch weld/body seam area and finally the jacking rail. Virtually everyone recommended them. Now that I have them on, I can see why. It affords me a nice jack point almost the length of the car and keeps me away from the rocker panel spoiler.

You'll be given a set of rubber cups, to cover the bolt holes once installed. Initially, they were falling out and I was like WTF. Then I pressed on them, like sealing a Tupperware container. Suck. They sucked right into position, like a vacuum. Sweet.

jacking rails 001.jpeg


jacking rails 002.jpeg
 
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DougS550

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OP.You don't have to have them, strickly your preference. I have the BMR Low mount rails, makes it much easier to jack without spending time looking for the pinch welds. you can also jack one side at a time ifneeded. Plus the add strength to the unibody frame. JMHO
 

tj@steeda

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We have some great videos ... but here is the infographic we created to help guide you (& they are currently on sale):




1659056956776.png
 

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RagmopInKona

RagmopInKona

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We have some great videos ... but here is the infographic we created to help guide you (& they are currently on sale):




1659056956776.png
Ok, Question.
The 35" is 12 lb's. but the 49" are 11.6lp's.
Why is one type 14" shorter? And does this matter?
I have no clue about these things, but I would assume the longer ones add more strength but again no clue and might not be understanding something.
The 1/8" lower tan pinch, seems like a better Idea for lifting the car on the rails and not the pinch at all. but maybe that does not matter?
How tight to the floor/unit body/frame rails do these sit, Should seal sealer be used to seal the rail to the sheet metal to keep moisture from between them that might cause a rust issue or is this a non issue.
I daily this car from spring to fall, so it sees wet roads, but no snow/ice road salt.

Thank you for your time.
 

tj@steeda

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Customers indicated they wanted a longer jacking rail to put their jacks further apart ... so we had the shorter one & then developed a longer one. As you can see by the photo - they don't need to be too far apart to be effective.

Both are engineered & designed to work with our IRS braces.

You can beef them up with sealant or rust-proof them - in harsher climates, that is always a valuable next step. Here is some feedback from another thread:

"There are two (2) version & here is the benefit of both:

The ā€œjackableā€ length has increased by approximately almost 15ā€ (14-7/8ā€) which is over 40% longer than the original version.

They are both great options ... the 555-5205 have stronger mounting flanges and are more robust for heavier and repeated use. "

1659282539853.png
 

Prodigal

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My first mod. Just ordered a set of the steeda low profile shorter rails. I figure I canā€™t do much else until I can safely get under the car.
 

bnightstar

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I have kenny brown ones on my car and this mod Is amazing. On one hand it provides more rigid chassis and on the other hand it's great for lifting the whole side from 1 point. My track friends were really impressed when I was changing wheels on track with them.
 

tdstuart

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Definitely not needed, but will give you more flexibility with where you can put your jackstands and jack without risking damaging the the plastic piece that runs alongside the pinch weld. If I remember right it bends enough to not be an issue, but better safe.

Haven't noticed any wear to my pinch weld and I have jacked up my car a lot.

If you have the money and will jack up your car a lot the they will probably just be nice to have to not have to worry about damaging the plastic piece I mentioned before.
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