Cheaper Fixes to Remove Spinning Strut Brace Bolt?

[richmo]

Pictured above is an aftermarket Steeda brace (which the previous owner installed) on my 15 GT. I've had the car the last 45k miles and took the brace off recently to change my plugs once and was probably taken off inbetween that point by a mechanic. However, I need to change my coil packs now, however I can't do that because apparently the entire time the wrong bolts were installed and this being my first car with a brace, I never even noticed as they "technically" fit back on (don't mind the top stud bolt, I was in the middle of taking it off). My big issue is that bottom bolt (as pictured) is a huge PITA as it's spinning with the stud, and I kinda need to get it off so I can change 'em out, but I can't even lift the engine cover under it. The space is hella tight that there's no way you can hold on to the stud and spin the bolt. Even if I magically loosened it somehow, the stud would probably fall through afterwards, right? Then what?

I was quoted over $1k just to basically remove it via replacing it with new struts, which I know HAS to be a cheaper solution. If I were to magically loosen thatNever changed out the struts before and don't plan on it ATM and I'm not the most mechanically inclined so I'm always looking for a more household way to get around things, but looking to see what my options are on all methods here.

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[WildHorse]

Put a set of needle nose vice grips on the stud.. and man that steeda brace like producing rust. you'd figure for the $$$ it wouldn't.

 

[richmo]

Put a set of needle nose vice grips on the stud.. and man that steeda brace like producing rust. you'd figure for the $$$ it wouldn't.

Where at, though? It's the close stud, by the way. No space anywhere I can see and I'm sure it's pretty tight underneath too.

 

[WildHorse]

Where at, though?

Right under the nut.

 

[mech94]

go to Lowes or home depot get some wood shim wedges wedge them between the brace and the body and then loosen the nut you need pressure on the stud so it quits spinning you can also use a pry bar to get leverage just wrap it in tape if you're worried about scratching up the paint

 

[CVCashmere]

Hi Richmo

In addition, saturate the part for several days with a penetrant spray such as
B’laster 16-PB Penetrating Catalyst (which I have used) or Kroll penetrating oil.

You may be able to free up the nut easier.

CVCashmere

 

[richmo]

Appreciate all the help so far. So will that stud eventually fall through after the nut is off, meaning I should probably try to hold the stud if possible? I don't mind keeping the brace off for a bit but want to make sure I don't lose through the underside and have a partially attached strut.

 

[Bitten in '69]

Just use a dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut the bolt under the nut. The bolt won't go anyplace that you can't get it. Replace with new hardware.

 

[ay1820]

Not sure if I understand what you mean be losing it through the underside. As long as you can tighten the nut again it will compress the brace into the shock tower and be secure. The problem is that if you can't stop the stud from spinning, you are not be able to either loosen (or re-tighten) the nut. If you get the nut off, couldn't you replace the stud a through bolt that you could then get a wrench in from the underside?

 

[ay1820]

I have been amazed at the number of problems that keep cropping up with various mounting studs on our cars. It seems like Ford must have "cheaped out" on the material and/or sizes of these parts.

 

[richmo]

Not sure if I understand what you mean be losing it through the underside. As long as you can tighten the nut again it will compress the brace into the shock tower and be secure. The problem is that if you can't stop the stud from spinning, you are not be able to either loosen (or re-tighten) the nut. If you get the nut off, couldn't you replace the stud a through bolt that you could then get a wrench in from the underside?

Correct, can't loosen nor tighten, but I mean the stud falling down and through after removing the nut, not the nut falling anywhere. Theoretically I should be able to replace the stud in that case but never messed with anything strut related on the under/inside and where I'm at it'd be quite tough to get it lifted up and dealt with.

 

[Jaymar]

If the stud is already spinning in place it is pretty much useless to you anyway. Bust out the hacksaw and cut it free. Then you can evaluate your options with a new stud or a through bolt however you want to go. The Steeda bar came with nylock nuts which I'm not a fan of anyway so get rid of those to save yourself the future problems.

 

[Chef jpd]

Cut off the stud with a dremel at the nut.
Punch the stud out with a hammer.
Install a rivnut in the tower hole.
Use the nut to install a bolt through the strut brace.

 

[ay1820]

Correct, can't loosen nor tighten, but I mean the stud falling down and through after removing the nut, not the nut falling anywhere. Theoretically I should be able to replace the stud in that case but never messed with anything strut related on the under/inside and where I'm at it'd be quite tough to get it lifted up and dealt with.

Jack up the car, remove the wheel and the fender splash guard liner. That will let you get a better look at what you're dealing with.

Maybe have someone else spin the nut/stud from above so you can see what's happening frpm below.

 

[Basspro302]

Pull the strut and buy a new strut mount,and buy a spring compressor. Or take it to a shop that will just change the mount for you.

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