Best Mustang to boost (need help)

[LSchicago]

Ok so cooling. But I don't see a single component listed in that article that is "stronger" and thus better at holding boost compared to a GT or Bullitt.

True. Mach 1 upgrades are road course track focused, nothing to do with straight line power. Most people won't buy a Mach 1 to Supercharge. Boost is more for flat out acceleration, not driving in circles.

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[EFI]

Every single one of those things is beneficial for longevity and being boosted

Really? Please tell me how the stiffer sway bars and front aero splitter are going to provide longevity in a boosted car vs. a base or PP GT? Does adding boost to a vehicle make it so fast that it will literally rip off the "weaker" GT splitter right off the bumper and break its sway bars in half on acceleration?

And how exactly is the splitter "stronger" than a GT splitter? Is it made out of stronger plastic or have some magic pixie dust inside?

 

[Andy13186]

The fact remains that there are no downsides only benefits from the mach one differences when being boosted.

 

[EFI]

The fact remains that there are no downsides only benefits from the mach one differences when being boosted.

True, but then technically a 350 or 500 would be even better at holding boost than a Mach1

 

[Andy13186]

True, but then technically a 350 or 500 would be even better at holding boost than a Mach1

no, they arent the best because they lack the 10r80 or 6r80.. and well, the gt500 is already boosted lol.

 

[Stephen@lethal]

But then you have to decide if the cost of the Mach 1 being as high as it is, is worth it for boost. If you'd rather boost a Mach 1 because you just like it more, then thats one then, but if we are just comparing them to each other for best platform for boost overall, I feel the price point of the GT is a better option.

 

[LSchicago]

The fact remains that there are no downsides only benefits from the mach one differences when being boosted.

Downside would be the Much higher price point. Coolers are easy to add.

 

[Angrey]

Downside would be the Much higher price point. Coolers are easy to add.

I'm not wading into the debate about what's a better platform, but I will say that if you want to add coolers and do it correctly, you'd be hard pressed to do it at the price Ford offers it on the 350 or Mach1. The components aren't cheap and depending on which mustang you bought, could involve things like front and rear valences, and will require things like new rear belly with NACA ducting, etc.

I ran the numbers before I bought my GT350 and others who have the 2016 "tech pack" have found out that although it's expensive from Ford, it ain't any cheaper if you're trying to do it yourself. Now, if you want to go Southern engineered setup, you can save some money, but to use OEM parts, even if you do the work yourself, you won't find it significantly cheaper than just buying the car that way.

 

[engineermike]

Predator short block, gen3 heads and gdi system (and cams, by default), early Gen3 TG and damper, 10r80, predator exhaust system….that oughta do it.

 

[LSchicago]

I'm not wading into the debate about what's a better platform, but I will say that if you want to add coolers and do it correctly, you'd be hard pressed to do it at the price Ford offers it on the 350 or Mach1. The components aren't cheap and depending on which mustang you bought, could involve things like front and rear valences, and will require things like new rear belly with NACA ducting, etc.

I ran the numbers before I bought my GT350 and others who have the 2016 "tech pack" have found out that although it's expensive from Ford, it ain't any cheaper if you're trying to do it yourself. Now, if you want to go Southern engineered setup, you can save some money, but to use OEM parts, even if you do the work yourself, you won't find it significantly cheaper than just buying the car that way.

I have zero desire or need for those parts. Just wasted money to go fast. If I was tracking the car, then they would make sense.

 

[EFI]

but I will say that if you want to add coolers and do it correctly, you'd be hard pressed to do it at the price Ford offers it on the 350 or Mach1.

Really? I paid 36k for my 301A 10r80 brand new. A new Mach will easily cost high 50s or low 60s.

With $25,000 extra in my pocket I think I can afford to purchase and install a few high quality coolers properly (not Southern engineered stuff as you put it).

Now I will say, buying a Tech Pack car as you mentioned and adding coolers yourself instead of getting the Track Pack from the get go would probably not be any cheaper. However comparing a base GT to a Mach 1 in terms of "value", it's nowhere close. The Mach1 is a great all around car out of the box for those that don't want to mess with anything, but it's an expensive set of medium of the road parts (let's not make out the OEM stuff to be anything special).

 

[Angrey]

Really? I paid 36k for my 301A 10r80 brand new. A new Mach will easily cost high 50s or low 60s.

With $25,000 extra in my pocket I think I can afford to purchase and install a few high quality coolers properly (not Southern engineered stuff as you put it).

Now I will say, buying a Tech Pack car as you mentioned and adding coolers yourself instead of getting the Track Pack from the get go would probably not be any cheaper. However comparing a base GT to a Mach 1 in terms of "value", it's nowhere close. The Mach1 is a great all around car out of the box for those that don't want to mess with anything, but it's an expensive set of medium of the road parts (let's not make out the OEM stuff to be anything special).

This isn't apples/apples and you know it. You're comparing ALL the upgrades and features of a Mach1 now instead of just the components you said were cheap to install.

And when did you purchase your car? You gotta love guys that quote pre-covid prices against today's insanity.

Point being, with the GT350 and to a lesser degree the Mach1, the value is pretty stout for what's included.

You could NOT in your wildest dreams, take a GT and add EVERYTHING included in a GT350 and come out ahead of just buying it from Ford. Trust me, I ran the numbers a zillion times before I bought.

Now, MAYBE you don't value those upgrades and components and that's fair. You could argue they don't make a difference to you. But the idea you can just replicate an M1 or a GT350 and do it cheaper is just bunk. You can't.

I happen to agree that the M1 is NOT the best platform for adding boost (if you're wanting to do it the cheapest) and many of the upgrades on the M1 are either contra to drag racing or not helpful, despite the cooling benefits, the car is heavier for it, the wheels are too big (diameter) to have any meaningful grip (to clear the brakes), etc, etc.

Like I stated earlier, if I was just interested in straight line rips, I'd buy a gently used Gen1 or Gen2 and slap a Procharger, Fuel system, E85 tune and a basic suspension (maybe even an ice tank) , some fats and skinnies on it and run deep 9's or high 8's all day long, reliably and as cheaply as possible.

 

[engineermike]

I always thought PP1 was the most drag oriented car short of the gt500. It has stock wides and skinnies (ok, wides and mediums), shorter gear, 10r80 available, and Torsen diff.

 

[EFI]

And when did you purchase your car? You gotta love guys that quote pre-covid prices against today's insanity.

Smack dab in the middle of said COVID related insanity. Not everyone gets hustled when buying a car

 

[Angrey]

Smack dab in the middle of said COVID related insanity. Not everyone gets hustled when buying a car

So I can buy a new 301A A10 car right now for $36k?

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