Autocross/daily driver questions

[NightmareMoon]

That's the first I've heard of that kind of failure. Pro race teams use slip on spacers all the time. They're not generally considered unsafe, (unlike bolt on spacers), and pretty much every car here on 11s is running slip on spacers, and I don't think we're hearing of failures, so IDK, however metal fatigue will get you eventually. Studs should be replaced at intervals.

I've seen crappy aluminum lug nuts let go. Hopefully your failure example were not just thin spacers which only reduce the thread engagement.

Anyway, the Apex wheels with front-fitting offsets are a good option too.

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[Steve68Cougar]

I was skeptical of the slip on spacers until I found out professional race teams are using the slip on spacer setup regularly. I would never even consider using the bolt on ones, even on a street-only car. I've driven my 305 setup to multiple autocross events at 300+ miles round trip and never gotten any movement from a retorque. Track days have been fine, too.

 

[shogun32]

I found a source for quite inexpensive slip-on spacers (1/2 price the usual places) but they are not hub-centric (87mm bore) so I'm going to cut suitable hub-centric adapters on my lathe. Ping me if you might be interested. I'll be making them in 15, 20 and 25mm applications.

 

[TeeLew]

That will work on the front, but not the rear. If you get the 19x11 et52 (the std. Rear), then adding the 25mm through-bolt (*not bolt-on*) spacer with extended wheel studs let's you put the rear wheel on the front.

 

[TeeLew]

The et26 will work perfectly on the front.

There's a "By the way" concerning the failures you've seen locally with wheel spacers. I don't know exactly what that is, but for sure they were either bolt-on spacers or in some other way not used properly.

 

[DrZed]

Interested as well.

 

[strengthrehab]

+26 wheels will fit without spacers, yes. Those wheels are essentially made with material equal to 26mm more than the +52 so, in essence, they have a "built-in" spacer.

Another way to look at it.
+52 (plus) 25mm spacer = +27 (close enough to 26mm)

 

[DrZed]

+26 wheels will fit without spacers, yes. Those wheels are essentially made with material equal to 26mm more than the +52 so, in essence, they have a "built-in" spacer.

Another way to look at it.
+52 (plus) 25mm spacer = +27 (close enough to 26mm)

Thank you for that!

 

[kz]

ET26 ? Should, no reason not. ET52 with spacer ? Most definitely not.

 

[BlackPlague]

Well guys, I bit the bullet. Steeda had a sale and I got the DR with Steeda adjustables.

Now a good question: bump stops, I've been reading up on them, and @TeeLew made some recommendations. How do you tune them? I'm not really willing to keep taking the struts apart to do it. If that's how it's done, I'll likely buy a set and deal with them.

Q2: haven't bought camber plates yet, still liking Vorshlag but they're so expensive. But my plan is to try to keep camber close to stock until autox day, then shoot for -3. Probably won't get all the way there because I don't want to cut up my strut towers just yet. Anyway, is this the best option for track side adjustment? Or are there some good ones that offer similar repeatability? What about rear camber? Is there something that can offer the same? I think Steeda has some indexed rear camber adjusters that I was thinking to use, and mark where each setting would go.

Thoughts?

 

[kz]

Keep in mind that as you adjust the camber, toe will change as well. I don't think that there is anything for the rear that offers adjustability that will be easy to repeat other than AAD Performance ones they've recently posted on the forum about - but it's the same issue with the toe and you don't need as much camber in the rear - so IMO you can live with one setting.

 

[Ewheels]

Well guys, I bit the bullet. Steeda had a sale and I got the DR with Steeda adjustables.

Now a good question: bump stops, I've been reading up on them, and @TeeLew made some recommendations. How do you tune them? I'm not really willing to keep taking the struts apart to do it. If that's how it's done, I'll likely buy a set and deal with them.

Q2: haven't bought camber plates yet, still liking Vorshlag but they're so expensive. But my plan is to try to keep camber close to stock until autox day, then shoot for -3. Probably won't get all the way there because I don't want to cut up my strut towers just yet. Anyway, is this the best option for track side adjustment? Or are there some good ones that offer similar repeatability? What about rear camber? Is there something that can offer the same? I think Steeda has some indexed rear camber adjusters that I was thinking to use, and mark where each setting would go.

Thoughts?

Agree with @kz , just leave the car with your track alignment all the time.
Adjusting back and forth is not exactly easy and you'll likely end up with a horrible alignment.
Remember, toe kills tires, not camber

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