What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

[Bit_the_Bullitt]

that's NOT what is happening nor what Steeda is explaining. The clutch will always return to 'home' (as defined as fluid pressure reduced to baseline) with or without spring. The 'stock' pedal position is NOT the same thing. The 'stock' position is artificially higher than the pedal would be at short of a mechanical positioning device of some sort.

What the Steeda spring does is return the pedal to the 'stock' position where you've grown accustomed to finding it with your foot. Without a spring and the 2-piece plastic doohicky your pedal would be much closer to the floor as it rests (lightly) on the piston.

The high rate Ford spring completely masks the point where the pedal transitions from compressing air, to applying force and motion thru the slave cylinder piston. And in fact, by virtue of it being of such high rate it keeps the pedal force constant since the piston moves easier than said spring compresses.

Neither spring has anything to do with the bite-point of the cluch. That is the same no matter what as it's regulated exclusively by how much fluid is displaced into the master cylinder.

What IS different is the amount of perceived force being applied to the pedal when you're in this activated state. With the Ford spring it's a constant 128lb/in or whatever, with the Steeda/aftermarket/no spring, it's whatever the force is to activate the hydraulic piston and counteract the clutch fingers.

The reason we like the Steeda spring is we can then feel the transition from useless stroke (moving pedal down to contact the hydraulic piston) to now actually applying force to said hydraulics. With the Steeda spring in place you can bounce on the first couple inches of pedal travel all day long and not move the clutch one iota. With the Ford spring, moving the pedal at all pretty much means you've activated the hydraulics.

What Ford should have done was dispense with the stupid spring notion and instead put in a threaded adjuster (think turnbuckle) that the user could use to set the pedal 'height' where the hydraulics would be activated. Some frickin' waste of breath in marketing thought drivers wanted a consistent force curve all the way thru the pedal arc. And so this bodge job was born.

Right. I'm not saying (or if I did, my bad) that it changes the bite point of the clutch. From my understanding it's supposed to be easier to find with your foot, feel for it.

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[cactus_kid]

This is the explanation that is getting me to buy their spring and perch. Steeda owes you lunch.

Won't happen. Just as TJ or Rodney. They have to bring their own toilet paper ..............

 

[1 old racer]

Topped of the Ninja knife sharp exhaust tips with something a bit safer....

Bolt on but the securing mechanism can be removed with a Dremel and welded on if one so chooses. Available in chrome and black. Both stainless steel base.

eBay.

Chrome: https://www.ebay.com/itm/383706848433

Black: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264854598053

I got the bare stainless and installed mine as well. I slit the top so I could slide then all the way down and spot welder them to the oem tips then cut off the bolts used to install them. Sorry for the poor photo. The car is very dirty .

 

[Scooter MGee]

I got the bare stainless and installed mine as well. I slit the top so I could slide then all the way down and spot welder them to the oem tips then cut off the bolts used to install them. Sorry for the poor photo. The car is very dirty .

Looks great. I considered having them welded but with mine being black I didn't want to mess with the finish.....plus, I actually wanted then to stick out a bit more than the OE tips. Helps the rear match the added splitter on the front from the side view.

 

[1 old racer]

That is why I got the SS. I didnt want to mess up the power coat. And thanks for the lead on them.

 

[Thesauerchise]

Test fit the new cover to ensure it’s all good for winter

 

[cactus_kid]

What's this thing you call winter ?

 

[TundraOnKings]

Did some mix-matchy with tint on the rear taillights. Wanted something different. (Lights are off)

 

[GT Pony]

The reason we like the Steeda spring is we can then feel the transition from useless stroke (moving pedal down to contact the hydraulic piston) to now actually applying force to said hydraulics. With the Steeda spring in place you can bounce on the first couple inches of pedal travel all day long and not move the clutch one iota. With the Ford spring, moving the pedal at all pretty much means you've activated the hydraulics.

When the hydraulics become activated should solely be dependent on the movement of the clutch pedal which moves the hydraulic cylinder piston rod. If different springs changed the way the hydraulics worked, then the bite point of the clutch would also change, but it doesn't. It's only the feel/force of the clutch pedal that changes, which makes it easier to feel and modulate the bite of the clutch through the pedal stroke. Nothing beyond that mechanically or hydraulically changes with a different spring.

 

[shogun32]

When the hydraulics become activated should solely be dependent on the movement of the clutch pedal which moves the hydraulic cylinder piston rod. If different springs changed the way the hydraulics worked, then the bite point of the clutch would also change, but it doesn't. It's only the feel/force of the clutch pedal that changes. Nothing beyond that mechanically or hydraulically changes with a different spring.

it's not so hard to understand.

Say the hydraulics require 80lb/in to move.

the Steeda spring is 30lb/in so squashing it all the way (1" travel say) doesn't do diddly to the hydraulics. All you've done is take up the slack in the pedal assembly and bottomed out the 2-piece plastic thinga-ma-jiggy. Only THEN does your foot actually start pushing on the piston at the requisite 80lb/in.

The Ford spring is 128lb/in so as soon as you exceed 80lb/in (80/128 = 0.625") worth of pedal movement you've now overcome the hydraulic piston's resistance and are moving fluid.

Clutch RELEASE point and BITE point are radically different things. Release point is at the top of the stroke and the moment you push enough fluid thru the system and the clutch plates START to slip.

BITE point is going the other way - the clutch on the floor and the plates spinning freely and you are letting off pressure till the plates start to bind/bite. There is say 1/4" to 1/2" of difference between RELEASE and BITE.

 

[GT Pony]

it's not so hard to understand.

Say the hydraulics require 80lb/in to move.

the Steeda spring is 30lb/in so squashing it all the way (1" travel say) doesn't do diddly to the hydraulics. All you've done is take up the slack in the pedal assembly and bottomed out the 2-piece plastic thinga-ma-jiggy. Only THEN does your foot actually start pushing on the piston at the requisite 80lb/in.

The Ford spring is 128lb/in so as soon as you exceed 80lb/in (80/128 = 0.625") worth of pedal movement you've now overcome the hydraulic piston's resistance and are moving fluid.

Clutch RELEASE point and BITE point are radically different things. Release point is at the top of the stroke and the moment you push enough fluid thru the system and the clutch plates START to slip.

BITE point is going the other way - the clutch on the floor and the plates spinning freely and you are letting off pressure till the plates start to bind/bite. There is say 1/4" to 1/2" of difference between RELEASE and BITE.

Sorry, a different spring is not going to change the bite point or any other motion of the hydraulics and clutch mechanism. It may FEEL like it does between your foot and the pedal, but it does not change anything mechanically between the pedal and the clutch through the hydraulics.

If the push rod length to the hydraulic cylinder could be changed, then it would mechanically change the clutch actuation and clutch bite point. But replacing a clutch pedal assist spring does not do anything like that.

 

[#1ford]

I got and put on my new California car cover ,we are getting a lot of rain in Michigan the last couple of days the new baby seems to like being tucked away on these inclement days

 

[shogun32]

Sorry, a different spring is not going to change the bite point or any other motion of the hydraulics and clutch mechanism. It may FEEL like it does between your foot and the pedal, but it does not change anything mechanically between the pedal and the clutch through the hydraulics.

You ARE correct that the spring doesn't change what 5mm of piston movement does to the other end of the hydraulic circuit and to the clutch plate slippage. Nobody claimed anything of the sort and only you keep harping on it.

The *position* of the pedal vis-a-vis the floor is ABSOLUTELY different between Steeda/No spring vs Ford spring and where the relative knee angle is at BITE and RELEASE point. The 'spring' also changes the perceived force needed to control the movement of the hydraulic piston at the various positions within said activation range. THAT is what we're talking about.

Nobody says you have to like it. I absolutely require feeling that distinct detent between slack pedal vs hydraulic activation and the range of effort required at different 'depths' of hydraulic stroke.

 

[fmc_smt]

Can we move on from the spring debate. Some like it others don't. But that doesn't mean one is right and the other wrong . If you don't like the factory clutch feel, try it with out a spring .

 

[rxryanm]

Attempted to install my air suspension today. Did not make it very far, but managed to smack a couple knuckles up lol. So I ended up swapping those awful stock lugs to the FP open ended ones since I had it up on stands. Also took the 4th brake light out and swapped back to a brighter LED reverse bulb.

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