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2018 GT PP2 Rear Differential Overheating Issue

1 old racer

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My plan is to run in parallel with the oem a set of med. Sized placed side by side right under the oem unit.
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1958cyclist

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Check this out
Will, nice job! Would like to see a follow up video with how the wiring portion goes. A question for you though, with the wiring aspect, is there a preferred reason why and on/off switch would be preferred to a thermostat? I see varying opinions on this and would assume that the on/off approach would be the simpler one, although any concerns with judging when to activate the system, possibly a diff temp gauge as a guide?
 

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I want to be able to deside when to turn on and off. I will finish the wiring portion soon when I figure where I want to place the switch. Some one noticed that I had a 12volt kids toy battery in the area and wondered if I was using that to power the setup. I am not. I use it to flush out the set up and to make sure everything was working like it should. But it got me thinking. I am going to see how long it will power the pump. And then power the fan on the cooler. One of those batteries is not enough to power both pump and fan at the same time but for around 50 bucks i can buy two of them and it is a easy carry along for pit use if they can provide enough run time.
 

1958cyclist

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I want to be able to deside when to turn on and off. I will finish the wiring portion soon when I figure where I want to place the switch. Some one noticed that I had a 12volt kids toy battery in the area and wondered if I was using that to power the setup. I am not. I use it to flush out the set up and to make sure everything was working like it should. But it got me thinking. I am going to see how long it will power the pump. And then power the fan on the cooler. One of those batteries is not enough to power both pump and fan at the same time but for around 50 bucks i can buy two of them and it is a easy carry along for pit use if they can provide enough run time.
Can't wait...interesting idea though about using the small 12 volts to run this setup while in the pit area.
 

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Can't wait...interesting idea though about using the small 12 volts to run this setup while in the pit area.
I must admit that it wasnt my idea. It was a member asking a question because he saw the small battery in the video that i used to purge the system. And that gave me the idea. That is what I love about partnering with members from this and other forums.
 

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Just installed the FTBR differential cooler on my 2019 GT PP1. have not been to the track yet. On the highway with the cooler turned off, diff temp settled at 210F. With the cooler turned on and running temp would not go above 165F. I’ll report back after some track time. Was a bit expensive, over $2,000 with the kit and professional installation. So far I’m happy with it.
 

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Just installed the FTBR differential cooler on my 2019 GT PP1. have not been to the track yet. On the highway with the cooler turned off, diff temp settled at 210F. With the cooler turned on and running temp would not go above 165F. I’ll report back after some track time. Was a bit expensive, over $2,000 with the kit and professional installation. So far I’m happy with it.
I did the same and have run hard in 8 track days without any complaints at all. It is worth the peace of mind.
 

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build it your self. it really wasnt that hard and will cost you 1/3 the price (around 450 with braided lines, AN fittings,wire and swithes.
 

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I almost positioned the pump and cooler in the same spot as you did. But out of prior experience with pump related heat failure I have been putting the last four of my cars I put it where I did,(creature of habit). I did fabricated a "bridge" with side venting to drawing the air in and holes to let the cooler push air thru the top after a quick nearby cayon run the trunk temp rose only 4 deg. Above the unairconditioned rear set area. I have ran mine with all the stuff in my trunk and a spare tire stored above the venting area. Please note that I dont plan on needing to run the cooler for street driving, but I now know if I need to I can. If you look closely at the photo you can see the sides of the bridges are cut square for the air to move under the cooler and the holes on top of the bridges to allow the blower to push the hot air out. I will add a few photos to the DIY to show the bridge fab.
20210518_190005.jpg
 
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Porsche Dude

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I almost positioned the pump and cooler in the same spot as you did. But out of prior experience with pump related heat failure I have been putting the last our of my cars I put it where I did,(creature of habit). I did fabricated a "bridge" with side venting to drawing the air in and holes to let the cooler push air thru the top after a quick nearby cayon run the trunk temp rose only 4 deg. Above the unairconditioned rear set area. I have ran mine with all the stuff in my trunk and a spare tire stored above the venting area. Please note that I dont plan on needing to run the cooler for street driving, but I now know if I need to I can. If you look closely at the photo you can see the sides of the bridges are cut square for the air to move under the cooler and the holes on top of the bridges to allow the blower to push the hot air out. I will add a few photos to the DIY to show the bridge fab.
20210518_190005.jpg
Great initiative on your part and creative. It is nice to know that you will not go into limp mode while on the track.
 

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I just installed the FTBR kit on my 2019 GT PP1. It’s mounted under the car. works well but the pump and fan are loud. Can be heard both inside and oit side the car. When inside, it’s about the same noise level as running the AC fan on medium To high but makes sort of a high vibration/buzzing noise. I guess that’s the pump. Seems to be working. Dropped the diff temp by 60F just on the highway. Have not tried it on the track yet.
Is your kit loud too?
You doing anything for transmission cooling?
 

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Yes it is. I think my pump is the same as the one they use. the fan, well its a fan. the tirewell does absorb a lot of the sound but you can still hear it. Please remember I dont intend to use it with normal driving and when on the track my window is down and I am wearing a helmet, therefore it is not noisy at all. I have a 10 speed auto and heat is a problem that I have not solved as of yet. I have installed two additional derale coolers located just under the crash bar but I think they are just too small. I am going to tackle this issue in two levels. Level one will be replacing my two smaller cooler with bigger coolers for the hot summer SoCal stop and go traffic,(This is the one area Ford did not do even a half ass job when they put the 10 speed auto in the mustang). Level two will be track cooling. One of our members, Flyhalf races his 10 speed in the TT2 class in NASA events and has done the most research that I have found in how to cool our mustangs. His findings show a baseline issue. The internal thermostat opens at 190 deg's, and on the track that is way too late. So he is trying to find a way to override the internal thermostat. I do feel that he is on the right track. But so far no luck, so he is doing the best he can do with air flow and larger radiators.
 
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In theory it would be great. Three reasons I didnt go this route. One more work then I wanted to do with no review. Two, sense my car is still a street car I dont want anything to hang any lower then it already is. And three it doesn't account for the heat build up due to the wrapped around exhaust and heat pocket that is designed in the S550. A side note I have never had my diff overheat on the first session of the day. It happens after a good heat soak between track sessions.
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