The Big Fat Track Car Cooling Thread

[HeelToeHero]

I also observed a bit of slightly erratic behavior from the factory engine temp gauge. It appeared to not operate with a linear relationship to the OBD II temp. At 200 deg on the OBD II temp, the factory gauge would be dead center. At 220, it still seemed to be dead center. But at by 230, it had quickly moved up to about 3/4 to the right. Odd.

This is normal. The factory temp gauge is designed to act more as a dummy light than a real gauge. If it moved around a bunch dealers would get nuisance calls for overheating.

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[Falk03]

Exactly, the temp gauge has a built-in plateau function. Everything in a certain range is just shown as perfect temperature with the gauge being in the centre.

 

[SVO MkII]

What sandwich hole did you use for the sensor? The one coming or going to the cooler?

There are two NPT ports on the plate, but only one is usable when oil lines are fitted. The only one I could use was the one on the side. The other NPT port is between the oil line fittings, and the sensor would not fit with both oil lines installed. Not sure if that is in the "coming" or "going" flow.

 

[fatbillybob]

There are two NPT ports on the plate, but only one is usable when oil lines are fitted. The only one I could use was the one on the side. The other NPT port is between the oil line fittings, and the sensor would not fit with both oil lines installed. Not sure if that is in the "coming" or "going" flow.

What Alex is implying is that reading the temp after the cooler or before the cooler is significant. There should be a nice temp drop after the cooler so that the motor is seeing cool oil which it of course heats back up.

I have not put my car into limp mode or I could not feel a loss of power. There well could be a progressive loss as heat rises or a definite power loss when heat hits a thresholds number. Does anyone know? The bottom line is we don't need to know the number. We just need big enough coolers to not go into limp.

 

[SVO MkII]

What Alex is implying is that reading the temp after the cooler or before the cooler is significant. There should be a nice temp drop after the cooler so that the motor is seeing cool oil which it of course heats back up.

I have not put my car into limp mode or I could not feel a loss of power. There well could be a progressive loss as heat rises or a definite power loss when heat hits a thresholds number. Does anyone know? The bottom line is we don't need to know the number. We just need big enough coolers to not go into limp.

Yes, I get that, but I'm not sure how the Mishimoto plate is designed, i.e., there are no flow markings on it.

With respect to power loss, I can't speak to the V8, but for the Ecoboost, the ECU cuts all boost. This effectively cuts power in half. It is quite dramatic. I had this happen at Road America when trying to pass between 5-6. Came out of the corner hit the pedal going up the hill, nothing. Looked at boost gauge, 0. Now I got cars on my ass wondering WTF is going on. It's very disconcerting to say the least.

 

[Bahndvr]

I never went mishimoto. The look of it did not jive with the claims. I guess my wag is correct. I wonder if there is a Ron Davis that could be used. IMO they are the best.

Watson Racing is said to have the largest radiator for the S550

 

[SVO MkII]

Watson Racing is said to have the largest radiator for the S550

...for the S550 GT.

 

[Bahndvr]

Not enough room?

 

[SVO MkII]

Not enough room?

The Ecoboost radiator sits on top of the intercooler, so it is shorter than the V8. I would envision a much thicker radiator option for the Ecoboost. Here is a pic of my intercooler. The radiator sits on the "shelf" in this intercooler.

 

[Bahndvr]

I wouldn't see why not having a larger radiator. Looks like a good 4-5 inches in the shell

 

[SVO MkII]

I wouldn't see why not having a larger radiator. Looks like a good 4-5 inches in the shell

Larger as in thicker? Yes, that is my point. I think the factory PP radiator is about 1.5". The Mishimoto is 2". I'd like to see a 3".

 

[shogun32]

if it's not boxed properly or can't shed heat any more effectively, thicker doesn't buy you anything. It's not a linear relationship I'll bet.

 

[SVO MkII]

if it's not boxed properly or can't shed heat any more effectively, thicker doesn't buy you anything. It's not a linear relationship I'll bet.

Yes, boxing to maximize airflow is important. But size also matters. Doubling the coolant capacity of the radiator is not going to double the heat dissipation capability of the entire system, but it will increase it some, without doubt. It comes down to what is the most practical and feasible way to increase the cooling capacity.

 

[shogun32]

I've wondered what a constant running fan would do to help cooling efficacy.

 

[SVO MkII]

I've wondered what a constant running fan would do to help cooling efficacy.

Or maybe even higher CFM fans? I would think that once the coolant temp gets to 200 or 210, the fans are on, and if the temps never fall below that, they probably stay on. Don't know for sure.

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