What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

[Stage_3]

One of the best features of the '18+ Mustangs. One of the reasons why I bought one.

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[myblkshadow19]

just finally got the shoes dressed.....

 

[Stone pony]

Didn't like the unfinished look under the package tray in the trunk. So I fixed it.

 

[Blue Moon]

3/23/2020:

I installed the COBB Stage 1 ots tune as well as K&N drop in filter on my 18 Ecoboost AT today and took it to a test drive for about 25 minutes as well as to fill it up with 93 octane from a local Citigo fueling station.

My first impression of the COBB is good, I noticed that the car got up to speed limit pretty quickly even though I was babying the car for the first 15 minutes to get the oil temp in the normal range. After the car was warmed up I gave about 50% throttle and the car went from 60 to 80mph in just a little over 1 second.

The car with the tune is a lot smoother now especially with the shifting, butter smooth.

After filling up at the local fueling station, I drove about 2 miles before giving it full throttle and noticed the boost pressure peaked at 20.XX psi before dropping to 18-19 psi until I let off the accelerator (had to brake to slow down, got up to high speeds very quickly).

It was very hot today (IAT around 90F) in about 90F humid weather in central FL, I will visit the local quarter mile drag strip when it gets cold again later this year to see how the car does.

My car's current mods are (2018 Ecoboost Mustang 10A):

CVF street intercooler

COBB AP V3 stage 1 93 octane tune

K&N drop in filter (oiled).

Since you already have a new intercooler, you should be good to run Cobb Stage 2. That's the stage that was written specifically for better intercooler than stock.

 

[Mike K.]

No bolts right in if I remember it correctly. Hardest part was trying to not break any dashboard clips. That got a little nerve racking.

Yes I lost 2 to the depths . But still no rattling

 

[Kermitz]

Didn't like the unfinished look under the package tray in the trunk. So I fixed it.

Looks good. Do you have any more pictures or info?

 

[Mike K.]

Everything you need to know is in this thread
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-digital-cluster-installation-guide.99275/

yes that’s where I got my info. Hardest part of the installation was cutting the plastic behind the original cluster which if 18 and up you don’t have to do. Bought mine from Sam the op of that thread. He gathers the parts for you and programs the cluster for a few hundred more than ordering yourself. Truly pnp going that route !

 

[Ecoboosted]

yes that’s where I got my info. Hardest part of the installation was cutting the plastic behind the original cluster which if 18 and up you don’t have to do. Bought mine from Sam the op of that thread. He gathers the parts for you and programs the cluster for a few hundred more than ordering yourself. Truly pnp going that route !

Yes I ordered my kit from Sam also. Since I have a 18 I didn’t have to do any cutting. It was a simple plug n play. Like I said the hardest part was pulling the dash apart and it felt like the clips would break but fortunately none did on mine.

Best advice I would give anyone thinking about doing the install is follow the instructions in that thread, watch all the videos and take your time.

 

[krishelnino]

We screwed up yesterday trying to replace the rear rotors and brake pads. We couldn't compress the caliper enough to make the new brake pads fit. I was using this tool to compress but it wouldn't go in and also there was fluid leaking from piston seals. Any ideas on how to fix it or do i need a new caliper?

 

[vernonator]

Came back from the shop last friday with a new hood (warranty corrosion replacement) been too cold to even look at it much. supposed to be 65 here today so going to hit the manual carwash and see how good/poor of a job they did on the paint and how much correction I have to do to it to get it to match the rest of the car. Really need some warm weather here!!!

 

[acemastr]

We screwed up yesterday trying to replace the rear rotors and brake pads. We couldn't compress the caliper enough to make the new brake pads fit. I was using this tool to compress but it wouldn't go in and also there was fluid leaking from piston seals. Any ideas on how to fix it or do i need a new caliper?

Jesus, who painted the caliper?! I bet the paint is going into the seal and causing it to leak past.

I used the same tool the other week, not sure how you're not able to push the piston back in, just place the plate on the tool on the inside of the caliper and twist the knob.

 

[WD Pro]

We screwed up yesterday trying to replace the rear rotors and brake pads. We couldn't compress the caliper enough to make the new brake pads fit. I was using this tool to compress but it wouldn't go in and also there was fluid leaking from piston seals. Any ideas on how to fix it or do i need a new caliper?

I don’t know mustangs, but I’ve had similar types of callipers on other cars.

The piston needs winding back in whist pressure is applied. I’ve use a two pin push bike bottom bracket spanner to get some purchase in the shapes on the piston face - c clip pliers would also work.

I can’t comment on your leakage, but it doesn’t sound good. Trying to be positive, has the piston been pushed out too far and fluid has breached the seal ?

Hope you get it sorted

WD

 

[krishelnino]

Jesus, who painted the caliper?! I bet the paint is going into the seal and causing it to leak past.

I used the same tool the other week, not sure how you're not able to push the piston back in, just place the plate on the tool on the inside of the caliper and twist the knob.

A shop painted it a year and half ago. I don't paint has gotten into the seal.

I don’t know mustangs, but I’ve had similar types of callipers on other cars.

The piston needs winding back in whist pressure is applied. I’ve use a two pin push bike bottom bracket spanner to gett some purchase in the shape on the piston face - c clip pliers would also work.

I can’t comment on your leakage, but it doesn’t sound good. Trying to be positive, has the piston been pushed out too far and fluid has breached the seal ?

Hope you get it sorted

WD

I just saw the LMR video and i think we screwed up pretty bad. Turns out there's a special tool to both turn and compress it. We probably squeezed the piston too hard and ruined it. I know it's dumb we pressed the brake once during this causing the piston to be pushed out too far and hence the fluid leak. I'll order a new set of calipers

 

[WD Pro]

So long as the seals haven’t been damaged and you don’t drag crap back into them they ‘should’ be OK with some careful reassembly.

Press a bit (with the tool you have) turn a bit with the c clip pliers (keep repeating) and you can compress them OK. I don’t think you would have damaged anything - I think that mechanism is designed to compensate for brake pad wear and handbrake adjustment, I should imagine it’s pretty tough (at least as tough as the thread on the tool you have been applying pressure with).

WD

 

[Ceayay]

Installed a Krona Performance cat back exhaust so it no longer sounds like a prius

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