Steeda LCA Spherical Bearings

[The01]

There is a guy that sells the whole LCA with the BMR BK055 bearings and will refund you the cost of the LCA if you send yours back to him. I have his info on my other PC; I'll look it up for you this weekend.

Waiting on this

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[moffetts]

https://facebook.com/cdautotech/ is the shop that does (or did) perform this service. Kelly from BMR recommended him.

 

[Ecoboosted]

https://facebook.com/cdautotech/ is the shop that does (or did) perform this service. Kelly from BMR recommended him.

I emailed that guy at this email address http://www.cdautotech.com/ today hoping he still provides this service. On his web site they only list 15’-17’ Mustangs. Nothing for 18’-20’. Although the LCA’s should be the same.

 

[BmacIL]

I emailed that guy at this email address http://www.cdautotech.com/ today hoping he still provides this service. On his web site they only list 15’-17’ Mustangs. Nothing for 18’-20’. Although the LCA’s should be the same.

It is unless you have a magneride car.

 

[Ecoboosted]

It is unless you have a magneride car.

Well damn. I have a Magneride car.

 

[shogun32]

The problem for eg. Steeda and an exchange/core-charge system is having to inspect returned customer parts and then trying to resell them while opening themselves up to legal liability even if they make it emphatically clear there is no warranty on the casting and not returnable. The BMR tool https://www.cdautotech.com/collections/15-17-mustang-s550/products/brt001-bushing-removal-tool is probably the right answer if you insist on doing it yourself and then just re-sell the tool to the next guy on this forum. Otherwise buy a new set of castings, have the bearing installed, swap parts, send the used ones in to have bearings installed and try to find someone here to take your take-offs for enough money to make it worthwhile (doubtful). Otherwise just call around to various shops or just live with the round-trip downtime.

The castings are 250-300 each, add 1hr shop labor, and bearing and you're looking at what, $400 each? would you pay that?

 

[Ecoboosted]

The problem for eg. Steeda and an exchange/core-charge system is having to inspect returned customer parts and then trying to resell them while opening themselves up to legal liability even if they make it emphatically clear there is no warranty on the casting and not returnable. The BMR tool https://www.cdautotech.com/collections/15-17-mustang-s550/products/brt001-bushing-removal-tool is probably the right answer if you insist on doing it yourself and then just re-sell the tool to the next guy on this forum. Otherwise buy a new set of castings, have the bearing installed, swap parts, send the used ones in to have bearings installed and try to find someone here to take your take-offs for enough money to make it worthwhile (doubtful). Otherwise just call around to various shops or just live with the round-trip downtime.

The castings are 250-300 each, add 1hr shop labor, and bearing and you're looking at what, $400 each? would you pay that?

has anyone used this BMR tool? https://www.cdautotech.com/collections/15-17-mustang-s550/products/brt001-bushing-removal-tool How hard was it using the tool?

 

[Danmg202]

I'm in the process of installing these and front tension links so I'll share some notes and note worthy mistakes on pressing.

I was using a real merciless bastard of a hydraulic press. Completely unimpressed by the bearing resistance which probably isn't the best because a slight mistake goes horribly wrong quickly.
I bought on eBay a pair of tension links for 40 bucks to install my bearings in. They do in fact have a correct direction the need pressed, or they will stretch the holes and the new bearings will be loose. That blunder out of the way I took the front and rears off the car to press some more..

There is a rubber knob that will shift the tool just enough to cause misalignment if you aren't careful and the thin metal will collapse as pictured. I'd recommend using a grinder to rid yourself of the rubber ridge or use the wide end of the tool to start the press.
Knowing going the wrong way would normally cause problems, I ground a bit off the wide end of the bushing so it wouldn't stretch the hole. This time it came out just fine without ruining the arm.

 

[Ecoboosted]

Thanks for the info. I’m waiting to see how things play out (COVID19) then I’m buying the Milwaukee 2767-20 impact gun. BMR no longer sells the bushing removal tool. I’m might try renting a tool from one of the auto stores near by. If that doesn’t work I’ll bring it to a local shop. I’m trying to do it by myself without having a shop do any of the work.

 

[moffetts]

That milwaukee impact is an awesome tool. Ridiculous power.

 

[Danmg202]

For the rears I was concerned about the disassembly as it's not clear from the outset how easy it would be to even remove the bolt. This was done on jackstands, Id normally have a lift available but the virus interfered.
Turns out to be not bad at all, nice little hole to insert a pry tool for a little extra clearance. I used bungee cords to get the half shaft out of my way. The directions say one side at a time so the sub frame doesn't crash, I just tightened the sub frame bolts back up and moved to the other side.

The pressing out was easy, I used a taper bushing for dodge gear boxes as my open base to press into, it was the absolute perfect base for both jobs. Going back in, lining up the bearing perfectly is important, It doesn't start itself in the hole as easily as the tension links and seems to want to cut and shave the arm if not lubed enough. First one right at the end bound up for just a second, popped and then spit out a bit of the arms lip.

About half way in I'd say take breaks and inspect the hole to make sure you aren't balling up aluminum and clear any shavings before they bind and cause problems. I think my arm is ok but there is a lot that can go wrong.

 

[Ecoboosted]

Thanks Danmg202. If you think of anything else let me know. After I get the LCA spherical bearings in I’m installing my Steeda adj. rear camber arms and adj. rear toe links.

My last alignment my front caster #’s were off and there’s no way to adjust them so I’ll be getting caster/camber plates and finally be done with my suspension.

Suspension work is my least favorite on this car especially the back.

 

[Danmg202]

Some general thoughts, Definitely wire brush any bolt threads you can reach on disassembly. Last thing you want is a stripped bolt. For the fronts I really think pressing them yourself is a bit of a mistake, just buy the pre assembled ones and keep the stock as back up. Rears if you have the means have a spare set of arms on hand and press them before you rip the car apart. Things can go sideways especially if this is a weekend project and you need your car for work Monday.

 

[Danmg202]

Thanks Danmg202. If you think of anything else let me know. After I get the LCA spherical bearings in I’m installing my Steeda adj. rear camber and adj. rear toe links.

My last alignment my front caster #’s were off and there’s no way to adjust them so I’ll be getting caster/camber plates and finally be done with my suspension.

Suspension work is my least favorite on this car especially the back.

I'm going to be putting on steeda toe links when I reassemble, might be a mistake not to do the camber arm while it's all apart but I haven't had issues with rear camber yet.

 

[Ecoboosted]

Some general thoughts, Definitely wire brush any bolt threads you can reach on disassembly. Last thing you want is a stripped bolt. For the fronts I really think pressing them yourself is a bit of a mistake, just buy the pre assembled ones and keep the stock as back up. Rears if you have the means have a spare set of arms on hand and press them before you rip the car apart. Things can go sideways especially if this is a weekend project and you need your car for work Monday.

Will do. We have another car incase my car gets tied up disassembled. I can use my motorcycle also if I need to as long as it’s not raining.

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