So I finally hit the Track.....

[2015Etrac]

I was checking out some 305 square settings and it appears the fronts stick out a significant amount with the 20mm and 25mm spacers, so now I'm leaning towards either a 19x10 285/35 square setup or a 19x10/11 285/305 setting. Which route would you guys that track and street your cars go? I plan to run the tires on the street in the warmer weather and hit the track 4-5 times a year.

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[BmacIL]

The R-S4 is known for its durability on track.

 

[BmacIL]

I was checking out some 305 square settings and it appears the fronts stick out a significant amount with the 20mm and 25mm spacers, so now I'm leaning towards either a 19x10 285/35 square setup or a 19x10/11 285/305 setting. Which route would you guys that track and street your cars go? I plan to run the tires on the street in the warmer weather and hit the track 4-5 times a year.

Or do what many of us do: two sets. No compromise on either set. Do you care that much if it's just your track wheels that have minor front poke? If you're running enough camber for the track, the tire doesn't stick out too much (a few mm).

 

[BmacIL]

Many tires will do that when run with not near enough camber... Which is obvious from the wear pattern.

 

[Ewheels]

I was checking out some 305 square settings and it appears the fronts stick out a significant amount with the 20mm and 25mm spacers, so now I'm leaning towards either a 19x10 285/35 square setup or a 19x10/11 285/305 setting. Which route would you guys that track and street your cars go? I plan to run the tires on the street in the warmer weather and hit the track 4-5 times a year.

If you can afford the upfront cost, I would suggest getting a track set and street set of wheels and tires. It's cheaper in the long run. That way you're not wasting good track tires on the street and equally not using street tires on the track. That being said, if you do choose a double-duty option, I would suggest the Michelin 4S tires. They last a long time and are pretty decent on track. They eventually lose grip when they get hot; they're still a 300tw tire.
Otherwise, get whatever long-lasting tires for the street and at least some 250 or lower tw tires for the track. I use Bridgestone S007A tires for the track and I know others do too. Not the most aggressive tire but grip a lot better than the Michelins and you can get a set of 4 in 285/35 for $900

Check out Vorshlag's S550 build. A LOT of good data in there. It will answer most if not all your questions.
https://www.vorshlag.com/forums/for...018-mustang-gt-s550-development-thread?t=8324

 

[shogun32]

I have 2 sets of MRR M600. 10ET35, 11ET50 and 11ET24, 11ET50. The 11ET24 will poke a bit and will thus need 2.5+deg of camber. They are only $600 a set for flow-formed.

You can get 19x10.5 ET45 (will need 5mm spacer?) for $75 if you can tolerate cast.

 

[aleccolin]

1. Camber plates, -2.5 deg or more
2. 19x11s with 200tw tire like a Hankook R-S4
3. Definitely, definitely consider doing the 3.55 torsen

On point 1) you can get away with less static camber if you have front roll center correction.

-2.0 deg front enough with roll center correction? Street car, occasional AutoX & HPDE. -1.5 deg rear. MPSS

 

[BmacIL]

-2.0 deg front enough with roll center correction? Street car, occasional AutoX & HPDE. -1.5 deg rear. MPSS

Barely enough. I have been running -2.2 and it has kept the wear pattern from getting bad but I'd be really happy with it on track at -2.5-2.7. Without the correction I'd need -2.7 or so to achieve the same results. It also depends on how stiff your car is. I have 250 lb front springs and the BMR bar on medium. Also, with that camber setting my DD tires have been wearing very flat, but I also have 0.00 toe up front.

 

[2015Etrac]

Or do what many of us do: two sets. No compromise on either set. Do you care that much if it's just your track wheels that have minor front poke? If you're running enough camber for the track, the tire doesn't stick out too much (a few mm).

That's true. Right now I daily SVE R350 wheels with Michelin A/S 3+, and for an all season tire they do very well on the street, well enough that I don't think I could ever push them past their limits as a daily driver or even on the back roads. I guess it would make more sense to get a real dedicated set of track tires and if I only use them 4 or 5 times a year I should get a few seasons out of them.

 

[2015Etrac]

Thanks. Due to the comments I'm leaning towards keeping the Pilot Sport A/S 3+ as my daily tires and getting a dedicated set of track wheels/tires. I do like the price of the Bridgestones vs. the PS 4s. Do you run them in 285 on your track wheels?

 

[BmacIL]

That's true. Right now I daily SVE R350 wheels with Michelin A/S 3+, and for an all season tire they do very well on the street, well enough that I don't think I could ever push them past their limits as a daily driver or even on the back roads. I guess it would make more sense to get a real dedicated set of track tires and if I only use them 4 or 5 times a year I should get a few seasons out of them.

It really does. That way you can keep a long-wearing, all-situation tire on the car most of the time, and have nice set of drive-to-the-track, but track only tires.

Thanks. Due to the comments I'm leaning towards keeping the Pilot Sport A/S 3+ as my daily tires and getting a dedicated set of track wheels/tires. I do like the price of the Bridgestones vs. the PS 4s. Do you run them in 285 on your track wheels?

I prefer the 275/35R19 on my current track wheels, which are 19x9.5 just like my DD wheels. For a 19x10 wheel I would go with the 285/35R19, though the Hankook in the 275/35R19 would be a great option. Another good option that is more autocross-focused but handles heat and wears better than the amazing RE71R is the BFG Rival S 1.5.

Christmas present/Bonus present to me will be 19x11 setup w/ 305/30R19 tires...not settled on RE71R vs Rival 1.5 yet though.

 

[2015Etrac]

Do you guys see any problems with running a 2.2-2.5 camber on a daily driver? I know nothing about camber settings. Also, I was looking at the camber plates, I was hoping they were like the ZL1 1LE version were you can just jack the car up and switch it from street to track, but I guess not. haha

 

[Ewheels]

Do you guys see any problems with running a 2.2-2.5 camber on a daily driver? I know nothing about camber settings. Also, I was looking at the camber plates, I was hoping they were like the ZL1 1LE version were you can just jack the car up and switch it from street to track, but I guess not. haha

Every time you adjust camber on a strut type suspension, you will affect toe slightly. If you keep switching back and forth between a street setting and a track setting, you will eventually induce toe which will very quickly kill your tires. Go with -2.0 to -2.5 camber in the front. It will be plenty good for track and not excessively wear your street tires

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