So I finally hit the Track.....

[2015Etrac]

This past weekend I finally was able to get in some track time, and now I'm hooked. The car handled really well. My weak point seemed to be tires (stock summer Pirelli tires). I plant to start hitting the track at least a few times a year, that being said what are the most common items I should look into upgrading?

As of right now I have:
Koni shocks
GT350R springs
GT350R sway bars
GT350R strut tower brace with PP cowl bracing
Front Brembo brakes
GT350 Track Pack spoiler
California Special front spoiler (similar to the PP one)

I ran 20" factory wheels/tires which weigh a lot, something like 65lbs each. So I was thinking of getting another set of SVE R350 wheels at 24lbs and some more track focused tires. I really don't want to void my powertrain warranty so I plan to keep the engine stock. I was thinking my next best option is to save some weight with lighter 2 piece rotors along with the wheels which should improve my braking and acceleration? I know the car should be fine as it is, but I enjoy upgrading and working on the car.

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[bnightstar]

This past weekend I finally was able to get in some track time, and now I'm hooked. The car handled really well. My weak point seemed to be tires (stock summer Pirelli tires). I plant to start hitting the track at least a few times a year, that being said what are the most common items I should look into upgrading?

I ran 20" factory wheels/tires which weigh a lot, something like 65lbs each. So I was thinking of getting another set of SVE R350 wheels at 24lbs and some more track focused tires. I was thinking my next best option is to save some weight with lighter 2 piece rotors along with the wheels which should improve my braking and acceleration? I know the car should be fine as it is, but I enjoy upgrading and working on the car.

So I just got back from a track event as well and closed my full season of racing with the car.

Few lessons learned:

1. Change your brake fluid to Motul RBF600 or Castrol SRF with better boiling point.
2. Oil Catch Can for some reason my car is burning oil like crazy on the track (passanger side should be enough).
3. Better brake pads Hawk DCT50 front DCT30 back is the best recommendation (I got trough 1.5 set of front brake pads this season stock Ferodo DS2500 are just not up to the task).
4. Wheels and Tires go with something that will make your tires 285/35/19 all around this is what FPRS Mustangs run.
5. Thicker Oil FRPS put 0W50 in there cars we are stock with 0W20 or 0W30 so this will limit the oil burned during operations.
6. Thicker diff oil 75W140 is what FPRS is running on Mustangs.
7. Looks like you are sorted on the Suspension front but it may be worth it to check this tread for ideas:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/m6g-suspension-nirvana.122473/

Also this is the FPRS Mustang that they use to teach people:

http://fordperformanceracingschool.com/en/more/fprs-vehicles/142-2015-fprs-mustang-gt.html#!QA1O1212

I hope this helps.

 

[2015Etrac]

So I just got back from a track event as well and closed my full season of racing with the car.

Few lessons learned:

1. Change your brake fluid to Motul RBF600 or Castrol SRF with better boiling point.
2. Oil Catch Can for some reason my car is burning oil like crazy on the track (passanger side should be enough).
3. Better brake pads Hawk DCT50 front DCT30 back is the best recommendation (I got trough 1.5 set of front brake pads this season stock Ferodo DS2500 are just not up to the task).
4. Wheels and Tires go with something that will make your tires 285/35/19 all around this is what FPRS Mustangs run.
5. Thicker Oil FRPS put 0W50 in there cars we are stock with 0W20 or 0W30 so this will limit the oil burned during operations.
6. Thicker diff oil 75W140 is what FPRS is running on Mustangs.
7. Looks like you are sorted on the Suspension front but it may be worth it to check this tread for ideas:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/m6g-suspension-nirvana.122473/

Also this is the FPRS Mustang that they use to teach people:

http://fordperformanceracingschool.com/en/more/fprs-vehicles/142-2015-fprs-mustang-gt.html#!QA1O1212

I hope this helps.

Thanks for the tips. I do have the Ford Performance oil catch can and better brake fluid.

Is 285 enough tire for these big cars? I seen a lot of people running 295 and 305 setups at the track. I was looking at a staggered 19x10/11 setup, but I've heard a square setup is better for these Mustangs on the track. If I go with 19x10 wheels I think 285 is the biggest tire I can really use.

It was a cool day so I didn't have any overheating issues. I'm hoping in the warmer months the rear diff. and 6R80 transmission will still perform well.

Also, I have the stock 3:15 gears, I wonder if I should go with one of the 3:55 torsen diffs off the 2018+ auto performance pack cars. One bonus of the 3:15 is that I'd assume the aluminium housing sheds heat better and is 20lbs or so lighter.

 

[bnightstar]

Thanks for the tips. I do have the Ford Performance oil catch can and better brake fluid.

Is 285 enough tire for these big cars? I seen a lot of people running 295 and 305 setups at the track. I was looking at a staggered 19x10/11 setup, but I've heard a square setup is better for these Mustangs on the track. If I go with 19x10 wheels I think 285 is the biggest tire I can really use.

It was a cool day so I didn't have any overheating issues. I'm hoping in the warmer months the rear diff. and 6R80 transmission will still perform well.

Also, I have the stock 3:15 gears, I wonder if I should go with one of the 3:55 torsen diffs off the 2018+ auto performance pack cars. One bonus of the 3:15 is that I'd assume the aluminium housing sheds heat better and is 20lbs or so lighter.

You can go with 305/30/19 all around if you get the SVE PP2 replica wheels but you will need spacers upfront and my car is a daily so I didn't want to go this route.

Also invest in driving lessons as getting better driving education on track totally changed my driving there and allowed me to get better times. Much better times than any upgrade would.

Overall after a season I'm yet to hit the limit of the car. However the tires goes quick on truck so investing in a set for truck is best investment you can make.

Also Camber Plates are a must. In terms of heat I'm yet to overheat the diff but my brakes overheated with the stock fluid now they are fine with RBF660 that i'm running still I will probably change to metal brake lines.

I'm with 3:55 gears and they were a bit short on the track I was running this weekend and lacked acceleration on the streight so I don't know which diff is better depends on tracks you are running.

 

[Ewheels]

Thanks for the tips. I do have the Ford Performance oil catch can and better brake fluid.

Is 285 enough tire for these big cars? I seen a lot of people running 295 and 305 setups at the track. I was looking at a staggered 19x10/11 setup, but I've heard a square setup is better for these Mustangs on the track. If I go with 19x10 wheels I think 285 is the biggest tire I can really use.

It was a cool day so I didn't have any overheating issues. I'm hoping in the warmer months the rear diff. and 6R80 transmission will still perform well.

Also, I have the stock 3:15 gears, I wonder if I should go with one of the 3:55 torsen diffs off the 2018+ auto performance pack cars. One bonus of the 3:15 is that I'd assume the aluminium housing sheds heat better and is 20lbs or so lighter.

285 on a 10" wide wheel is fine. I have the SVE SP2 19x10 with 285/35 tires square for my track set (you can fit 4 wheels/tires in the car). The really fast and competitive guys run 11" square with 305s and they will require a spacer up front.

 

[2015Etrac]

285 on a 10" wide wheel is fine. I have the SVE SP2 19x10 with 285/35 tires square for my track set (you can fit 4 wheels/tires in the car). The really fast and competitive guys run 11" square with 305s and they will require a spacer up front.

Good to know. Thanks. I'll probably go with the 285 then. Do you think 295 would be too much for a 10" wheel?

 

[2015Etrac]

You can go with 305/30/19 all around if you get the SVE PP2 replica wheels but you will need spacers upfront and my car is a daily so I didn't want to go this route.

Also invest in driving lessons as getting better driving education on track totally changed my driving there and allowed me to get better times. Much better times than any upgrade would.

Overall after a season I'm yet to hit the limit of the car. However the tires goes quick on truck so investing in a set for truck is best investment you can make.

Also Camber Plates are a must. In terms of heat I'm yet to overheat the diff but my brakes overheated with the stock fluid now they are fine with RBF660 that i'm running still I will probably change to metal brake lines.

I'm with 3:55 gears and they were a bit short on the track I was running this weekend and lacked acceleration on the streight so I don't know which diff is better depends on tracks you are running.

Thanks. I'll probably just go with the 285 square then, with my experience level it seems like a 285 tire would be more than enough. I'll have to look into camber plates too. My main problem is my car is my daily driver so I need to find a good balance between a reliable daily car and a fun good performing track car.

 

[Bluemustang]

Thanks. I'll probably just go with the 285 square then, with my experience level it seems like a 285 tire would be more than enough. I'll have to look into camber plates too. My main problem is my car is my daily driver so I need to find a good balance between a reliable daily car and a fun good performing track car.

I agree with your reasoning. Another possibility is do what I am planning: Get 19x11s with the proper offset you don't have to use spacers & extended studs. Then you can run 305s.
MRR M600 is made with +24 +50 front and rear, respectively. APEX makes the SM10 which can come in +26 and +52 as well.

 

[Ewheels]

Good to know. Thanks. I'll probably go with the 285 then. Do you think 295 would be too much for a 10" wheel?

You won't notice much of a difference between a 285 and a 295 and there are more tire options available for 285.

Watch LMR.com for wheel deals. They are having Black Friday deals that are pretty good. I believe all the SVE wheels are flow formed and for a good price. I got my SP2s on Memorial Day sale for $800 for the set. I saw some other SVE wheels on their site recently on clearance for $500 for the set.

 

[2015Etrac]

You won't notice much of a difference between a 285 and a 295 and there are more tire options available for 285.

Watch LMR.com for wheel deals. They are having Black Friday deals that are pretty good. I believe all the SVE wheels are flow formed and for a good price. I got my SP2s on Memorial Day sale for $800 for the set. I saw some other SVE wheels on their site recently on clearance for $500 for the set.

I think I paid like $890 or so for my SVE R350's, it looks like they're about $999 now. I remember they had the regular 350 wheels on sale for $500/set. Looking back I wish I would have grabbed them, but at the time I wasn't really thinking about tracking the car. I'm really happy with the SVE R350's, if I can grab another set on sale I probably will and run 285's with some better tires on them for the summers and track. Are any of you guys running the new Michelin PS 4s on the track or would something like a Super Sport be better? I thought I heard the 4s replaced the Super Sports but it appears they still sell booth.

 

[JohnD]

Ultimately, you want 11" rims on both ends with 305s. You'll need a 20-25mm spacer on the front. These cars are front heavy and they push, you need all the tire you can get up front. I run SVE R350s 11" at both ends 20 mm spacers on the front. I can rotate my wheels/tires side to side and front to back to maximize wear without having to dismount/remount tires. Makes a big difference and if you go with wheels offset for the front specifically you can't do that. Main point is if you're going to buy another set of rims don't waste your money on anything less than an 11" rim.

 

[2015Etrac]

Ultimately, you want 11" rims on both ends with 305s. You'll need a 20-25mm spacer on the front. These cars are front heavy and they push, you need all the tire you can get up front. I run SVE R350s 11" at both ends 20 mm spacers on the front. I can rotate my wheels/tires side to side and front to back to maximize wear without having to dismount/remount tires. Makes a big difference and if you go with wheels offset for the front specifically you can't do that. Main point is if you're going to buy another set of rims don't waste your money on anything less than an 11" rim.

How is it with spacers? I've heard mixed reviews about running spacers. I guess if you get a quality set they should be fine? Also, does it stick out of the fender much? My 19x10 SVE's are pretty flush as is.

 

[BmacIL]

1. Camber plates, -2.5 deg or more
2. 19x11s with 200tw tire like a Hankook R-S4
3. Definitely, definitely consider doing the 3.55 torsen

On point 1) you can get away with less static camber if you have front roll center correction.

 

[2015Etrac]

1. Camber plates, -2.5 deg or more
2. 19x11s with 200tw tire like a Hankook R-S4
3. Definitely, definitely consider doing the 3.55 torsen

On point 1) you can get away with less static camber if you have front roll center correction.

Thanks. My only issue with the 3:55 is there's been so much conflicting info on installing them in an auto as far as programming the car for the change. I'm trying to avoid a tune to keep the powertrain warranty for a bit. On the other hand I hear you can adjust it with Forscan, but I'm not sure if a dealer could see that it was changed through that method. I think the shift points is the big issue when installing a new diff on the auto cars.

I just looked up the tires, they look like a good pick for a summer street/track car, but it appears they only make up to a 275 in 19", at least on Tirerack.

I felt like the car could have used a bit more power on the straights, but that will have to wait. Eventually I plan on a GT350 manifold, tune, and longtubes.

For my skill level, which is 0, the car felt really good, but like I said the tires were pretty bad until they warmed up after a few laps and even then as I gained more confidence and pushed the car a but more they were loosing some grip towards the end.

 

[NightmareMoon]

My advise is to burn through a set or three of tires before upgrading your wheels.

Hankook RS-4 is a good idea. Should last longer than others in that class.

camber plates are a must. Steedas work, not Maximum Motorsports (not enough adjustment)

drive for a while before throwing money at things. Except camber plates will help the tires last.

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