BMR Tech Tip: Clock those bushings after lowering your S550!

[Biggsy]

After lowering or anytime the vehicles height is adjusted.

Going from lowering springs back to stock should be clocked as well.

Essentially any time the static ride height is changed.

I just had a weird thought as I was typing this. Lots of higher end vehicles have comfort / sport settings. I'll use my buddy's porsche cayenne as an example.

From sport to comfort mode the ride height raises / lowers the ride height approx 4" from low low (on a track) to off-road mode. How do these systems mitigate having to clock bushings when the ride height is adjustable as often as one wishes and has 4x the range a simple 1" drop on our cars has?

I appreciate the response! But I'm already lowered and all that jazz but I'm switching my wheel/tire set up so I just want to know if the bushings have to be done again.

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[Norm Peterson]

I appreciate the response! But I'm already lowered and all that jazz but I'm switching my wheel/tire set up so I just want to know if the bushings have to be done again.

Bushings only need to be reclocked when modifications cause a change in the inclinations of any arms or links that use OE bushings. Changing these inclinations without reclocking the bushings prestresses the bushings.

It doesn't matter what's bolted up to the hubs (big tires, small tires, big steel plates), because that won't change any of the suspension's arm/link inclinations.


Norm

 

[BmacIL]

I appreciate the response! But I'm already lowered and all that jazz but I'm switching my wheel/tire set up so I just want to know if the bushings have to be done again.

Short answer: no

 

[Biggsy]

Short answer: no

Bushings only need to be reclocked when modifications cause a change in the inclinations of any arms or links that use OE bushings. Changing these inclinations without reclocking the bushings prestresses the bushings.

It doesn't matter what's bolted up to the hubs (big tires, small tires, big steel plates), because that won't change any of the suspension's arm/link inclinations.


Norm

Thanks guys. Didn't think so.

 

[HeelToeHero]

Aren't many of the fasteners that we should loosen to clock the bushings one time use? Shouldn't they be replaced?
Many are included in the Ford Performance fastener kit:
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-FR3-FASTENA

 

[BmacIL]

Aren't many of the fasteners that we should loosen to clock the bushings one time use? Shouldn't they be replaced?
Many are included in the Ford Performance fastener kit:
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-FR3-FASTENA

No.
If you're not backing them all the way out, the threadlock remains intact. None of those bolts are torque-to-yield, so there's no reason not to reuse them. Ford is covering their butt.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

No.
If you're not backing them all the way out, the threadlock remains intact. None of those bolts are torque-to-yield, so there's no reason not to reuse them. Ford is covering their butt.

I take it you are talking about the dry thread-lock on part of the threads from the factory. I did a little research on that and have the impression it is activated by pressure when first tightened which made me wonder if it really still works after loosening. So I have been removing the dry thread-lock and using liquid thread-locker when reusing them which obviously requires them to be completely removed. Would rather not if the dry factory thread-lock is still working. I also wondered about how leaving the dry thread-locker on or using liquid effects how much torque should be used. I mean, the dry thread-locker must have an effect, so reuse or a different thread-locker might change that, although I have been assuming not enough to worry about.

 

[BmacIL]

I take it you are talking about the dry thread-lock on part of the threads from the factory. I did a little research on that and have the impression it is activated by pressure when first tightened which made me wonder if it really still works after loosening. So I have been removing the dry thread-lock and using liquid thread-locker when reusing them which obviously requires them to be completely removed. Would rather not if the dry factory thread-lock is still working. I also wondered about how leaving the dry thread-locker on or using liquid effects how much torque should be used. I mean, the dry thread-locker must have an effect, so reuse or a different thread-locker might change that, although I have been assuming not enough to worry about.

The primary and vast majority of the bolt retention is the stretch of the bolted joint when the bolt is torqued. The dry thread locker just adds some more friction, but a properly torqued bolt is what you need. In addition, the heat from the friction of threading in the joint will reactivate the compound.

You don't need to worry about new bolts or thread lock when clocking bushings.

 

[Lowkeyslow]

i know this is a really old post but is there any pics/videos on this people know about? i'm not sure if i got everything!

 

[Dominant1]

https://ibb.co/q7nGcHs

 

[nrm101]

I think the bigger issue is whether he lifted only one side at a time or lifted both hubs together. One at a time means that the sta-bar (I'm assuming it was left connected) would be introducing some error, most likely also leading to less than full static compression of the suspension.


Norm

Based on your comment, if you doing a wheel at a time are you suggesting disconnecting the sta-bar completely; Clock, and then reconnect? seems like that would have the desired effect?

 

[Norm Peterson]

^^^ should be better than not disconnecting the bar. Probably not quite as good as disconnecting both bars.


Norm

 

[bobpies]

Took this to my local - 4 post roll on ramp - he said it couldn’t be done - not enough clearance for his torque wrench to hit the 203lb/ft spec

dunno what to do now other than just try another garage

my passenger side rear is knocking on short sharp compressions - I’m hoping it’s something to do with this

 

[CEHollier]

Took this to my local - 4 post roll on ramp - he said it couldn’t be done - not enough clearance for his torque wrench to hit the 203lb/ft spec

dunno what to do now other than just try another garage

my passenger side rear is knocking on short sharp compressions - I’m hoping it’s something to do with this

Find a shop that can do it.

 

[bobpies]

Find a shop that can do it.

just dropped it to one there now - will see if they can do it

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