All Intake manifolds test results..link below

[PC 2015]

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/dyno-every-ford-coyote-intake-manifold-on-gen-3-crate/

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[Ebm]

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/dyno-every-ford-coyote-intake-manifold-on-gen-3-crate/

I'll sacrifice a few horsepower for the good looks of the Boss intake.

 

[nastang87xx]

I think people get too worked up over these manifolds. Use the one that you have or if you're going to replace one, get the '18 because it's cheap and effective. GT350 manifold makes zero sense unless you're revving over 7500 (note in this test they take the '18 vs GT350 up to 7500 because frankly that's where people are realistically sending it to, the GT350 wins over this RPM range every time but be honest with yourself about upping the rev limit...). Get a CJ if you're looking for every last drop possible.

 

[BmacIL]

All that needs to be said:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/intake-manifold-testing.116386/#post-2446998

GT350 and CJ manifolds w/o cams don't carry a big advantage (or any in case of the GT350) over the '18 manifold. If you do cams that shift the peak even higher (closer to 8000 rpm), both of those manifolds will have an edge over the '18. That said, if you're not going to rev your car past 7500 consistently, '18 wins.

 

[PC 2015]

I have a whipple just posted for who ever haha..

 

[Bluemustang]

On the cheap and for reliable hp - 2018 manifold FTW. IMO no one should be realistically sending it to 8K on a routine basis unless they do supporting mods first like OPGs, etc. Not if you value your motor. To 7500ish RPM which pretty much everyone agrees is safe - the 18 is the clear winner.

Also, consider for the Boss and CJ you need to do other mods to make it fit. And the GT350 manifold is also considerably more expensive than the 2018 manifold with the CJ being by far the most expensive route. For max effort N/A builds, the CJ will be the best of course. But you must also be willing to do the supporting mods.

 

[2015Etrac]

I'm glad I came across this post. I was leaning towards a GT350 intake manifold, but at the same time I run a 6r80 and am concerned about upping the RPM with the stock engine. It looks like the 2018 intake is the way to go, especially if you don't plan to shift at 8,000rpm. I'd still be slightly worried about setting it at 7500rpm, how safe is that for a stock engine and OPG? Has anyone had issues with shifting at 7500? Would it make much difference setting it lower, at say at 7200-7300, as far as power and reliability or is 7500 the way to go. I don't know much about the limits of these engines, I'm still mostly stock. haha

 

[BmacIL]

I'd still be slightly worried about setting it at 7500rpm, how safe is that for a stock engine and OPG?

It's fine. Same OPG as the 18 Coyote and on an NA car, it's good to go to 8000. Boosted, absolutely do the OPG upgrade. Best practice is set the limiter to 8000+ and shift at 7500-7600 when doing max effort pulls. If you shift lower you're missing out on some total acceleration because of where the engine speed drops to when you shift.

 

[2015Etrac]

It's fine. Same OPG as the 18 Coyote and on an NA car, it's good to go to 8000. Boosted, absolutely do the OPG upgrade. Best practice is set the limiter to 8000+ and shift at 7500-7600 when doing max effort pulls. If you shift lower you're missing out on some total acceleration because of where the engine speed drops to when you shift.

Thanks. Dumb question, but on an auto is the shift point the same point as where the limiter is set? So if the limiter is set at 7500, it would shift at 7500 at WOT? Is it just a manual transmission thing to set the limiter higher than your planned shift points? Basically, if I want my 6R80 to shift at 7500rpm, would the tuner would just set the limiter to 7500. Sorry to get off topic.

 

[BmacIL]

Thanks. Dumb question, but on an auto is the shift point the same point as where the limiter is set? So if the limiter is set at 7500, it would shift at 7500 at WOT? Is it just a manual transmission thing to set the limiter higher than your planned shift points? Basically, if I want my 6R80 to shift at 7500rpm, would the tuner would just set the limiter to 7500. Sorry to get off topic.

Not exactly. You'd want to set your auto shift point at 7500 but your limiter higher in case you're playing in manual mode with paddles.

 

[2015Etrac]

Not exactly. You'd want to set your auto shift point at 7500 but your limiter higher in case you're playing in manual mode with paddles.

Good to know, thanks. I wasn't sure how that exactly worked with auto's.

 

[Ebm]

What if I printed 'BOSS 302' on the 18?

Who knows what would happen? Maybe your car will stop ticking.

 

[Zelek]

My redline is 8100 with a soft one at 7950. Already did a few 7800 pulls while doing datalogs a few weeks ago. As long as you aren't bouncing off that limiter, you will be fine. Car sounds crazy once it gets that high though.

 

[nastang87xx]

Yeah, basically don't install a 2 step and you're fine regarding OPG's.

 

[Bluemustang]

My redline is 8100 with a soft one at 7950. Already did a few 7800 pulls while doing datalogs a few weeks ago. As long as you aren't bouncing off that limiter, you will be fine. Car sounds crazy once it gets that high though.

Yeah it does sound crazy. It actually puts me a little on edge when mine gets that high. I prefer to stay around 7500 just to be safe.

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