Track Brake Pads

[Av8orntn]

stock pads are perfectly fine. If you want to spend money, get camber plates for the front..

I'm probably putting in camber plates this winter also.

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[Steeda Tech JohnC]

Here is a great chart for looking at brake pad temps and where they fall off temp wise

https://www.tirerack.com/images/pdf/product/Hawk-Compound-Charts.pdf

You'll see the HPS 5.0 which is a great street pad starts to fall off around 700 degrees, while the DTC 70 doesnt fall off until around 1600 degrees material temp

 

[cjgt350]

Ferodo's here. Very happy with them and their longevity on track. No worries with them on cross contamination of base compounds either as the stock pads have the same base compound. They are pricey however but well worth it IMO.

http://www.gt350brakes.com/category/gt350

Review here in my track build thread.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74433&page=13

 

[Eritas]

My friend who went to the track attack in Utah said they use stock pads on the GT350s out there and the instructors can't even fade the OEM pad.

 

[firestarter2]

My friend who went to the track attack in Utah said they use stock pads on the GT350s out there and the instructors can't even fade the OEM pad.

I got them to fade instructors use less brakes then novices

 

[Eritas]

I got them to fade inductors use less brakes then novices

What track? Did the pedal go to the floor or did you have a good pedal but the car just not stop?

 

[Lurker_350]

I got them to fade inductors use less brakes then novices

I had the same issue at the track attack. The ride along instructor mentioned that part of the problem was not braking hard enough for a short duration, compared to softer braking for a longer duration (which is what I was doing). After some coaching, the brakes seemed to not fade when braking really hard at the braking point and then tapering off, rather than slowly ramping up pressure as the corner approached.

That and growing accustomed to more entry speed!

For me, the pedal just got softer and required more force for the same amount of stopping. But again, I think it was poor technique. And I was on the West Track.

 

[oldbmwfan]

I honestly don't get why people are swapping pads on this car for track. At Mid-Ohio in my R, I was getting ~4 hours of lapping per set of front pads, ~7-8 hrs for the rears.

These factory pads are amazing. They are quiet on the street, work well with great feel at low temps, and work well with great feel at high temps. On the PSC2s, I can engage ABS at will at 140+ mph on the back straight even at the end of a 30-minute session. No fade, good modulation.

They wear out fast not because they are bad pads, but because the spec for the car was "unlimited lapping without overheating." To do that on a high-mass, high-power car, you need an enormous heat sink (rotors). The rotors are very thick. The caliper only has so much room inside. So, the pads are relatively very thin, and rapid pad consumption is the cost of having no fade and excellent performance.

The factory pads are cheap and work great. Maybe if you go to a Hoosier R7 or a true slick, you'll have enough tire grip to warrant a more aggressive pad, but the PSC2 grips pretty close to a Hoosier R6 and these pads can keep up just fine. Other than fluid, the braking system on this car is one thing I have zero desire to change.

On my BMW race car, I have used PFC and Hawk pads. I like the Hawk DTC 70/60 and the PFC 08 in that application. But the R has better feel and modulation on the stock pads than that car does on the race pads.

One other point - a friend at FP verified that ~4 hrs per set of front pads is "on schedule" for most tracks.

 

[firestarter2]

I honestly don't get why people are swapping pads on this car for track. At Mid-Ohio in my R, I was getting ~4 hours of lapping per set of front pads, ~7-8 hrs for the rears.

These factory pads are amazing. They are quiet on the street, work well with great feel at low temps, and work well with great feel at high temps. On the PSC2s, I can engage ABS at will at 140+ mph on the back straight even at the end of a 30-minute session. No fade, good modulation.

They wear out fast not because they are bad pads, but because the spec for the car was "unlimited lapping without overheating." To do that on a high-mass, high-power car, you need an enormous heat sink (rotors). The rotors are very thick. The caliper only has so much room inside. So, the pads are relatively very thin, and rapid pad consumption is the cost of having no fade and excellent performance.

The factory pads are cheap and work great. Maybe if you go to a Hoosier R7 or a true slick, you'll have enough tire grip to warrant a more aggressive pad, but the PSC2 grips pretty close to a Hoosier R6 and these pads can keep up just fine. Other than fluid, the braking system on this car is one thing I have zero desire to change.

On my BMW race car, I have used PFC and Hawk pads. I like the Hawk DTC 70/60 and the PFC 08 in that application. But the R has better feel and modulation on the stock pads than that car does on the race pads.

One other point - a friend at FP verified that ~4 hrs per set of front pads is "on schedule" for most tracks.

I got 16 hours out of my pads. Probably could of gotten 20. So.... 4 to 5 times the life at twice the price. The stock pads are too dusty for the street for my liking.

 

[oldbmwfan]

I got 16 hours out of my pads. Probably could of gotten 20. So.... 4 to 5 times the life at twice the price. The stock pads are too dusty for the street for my liking.

Interesting. I scanned the thread, don't see you mentioning what pads you're using to get that kind of life. Also, what tracks are you running? Based on ohter cars, I get about 2x the life at Watkins Glen vs. Mid-Ohio or VIR.

 

[honeybadger]

Also, fluid, fluid, fluid

something like motul RBF600 or 660 for fluid, bled before and event(and mid day if you want to be safe)


When swapping the pads, inspect for cracking on the rotors as well, it will happen eventually, its just a part of track use when you start running it hard

I boiled RBF600 fluid at T Hill+ Sonoma. I'd recommend Castrol SRF over it. I never boiled the OEM fluid for what its worth (but I think that was more because of the tracks I was running at and how hard I was running).

 

[honeybadger]

I honestly don't get why people are swapping pads on this car for track. At Mid-Ohio in my R, I was getting ~4 hours of lapping per set of front pads, ~7-8 hrs for the rears.

These factory pads are amazing. They are quiet on the street, work well with great feel at low temps, and work well with great feel at high temps. On the PSC2s, I can engage ABS at will at 140+ mph on the back straight even at the end of a 30-minute session. No fade, good modulation.

They wear out fast not because they are bad pads, but because the spec for the car was "unlimited lapping without overheating." To do that on a high-mass, high-power car, you need an enormous heat sink (rotors). The rotors are very thick. The caliper only has so much room inside. So, the pads are relatively very thin, and rapid pad consumption is the cost of having no fade and excellent performance.

The factory pads are cheap and work great. Maybe if you go to a Hoosier R7 or a true slick, you'll have enough tire grip to warrant a more aggressive pad, but the PSC2 grips pretty close to a Hoosier R6 and these pads can keep up just fine. Other than fluid, the braking system on this car is one thing I have zero desire to change.

On my BMW race car, I have used PFC and Hawk pads. I like the Hawk DTC 70/60 and the PFC 08 in that application. But the R has better feel and modulation on the stock pads than that car does on the race pads.

One other point - a friend at FP verified that ~4 hrs per set of front pads is "on schedule" for most tracks.

I got 12 days out of my G-Locs with far superior bite. When I did track attack I felt like I was driving an entirely different car because the brakes were so much less aggressive.

The OEM pads are good - no doubt, but they're not perfect.

 

[Eritas]

I honestly don't get why people are swapping pads on this car for track. At Mid-Ohio in my R, I was getting ~4 hours of lapping per set of front pads, ~7-8 hrs for the rears.

These factory pads are amazing. They are quiet on the street, work well with great feel at low temps, and work well with great feel at high temps. On the PSC2s, I can engage ABS at will at 140+ mph on the back straight even at the end of a 30-minute session. No fade, good modulation.

They wear out fast not because they are bad pads, but because the spec for the car was "unlimited lapping without overheating." To do that on a high-mass, high-power car, you need an enormous heat sink (rotors). The rotors are very thick. The caliper only has so much room inside. So, the pads are relatively very thin, and rapid pad consumption is the cost of having no fade and excellent performance.

The factory pads are cheap and work great. Maybe if you go to a Hoosier R7 or a true slick, you'll have enough tire grip to warrant a more aggressive pad, but the PSC2 grips pretty close to a Hoosier R6 and these pads can keep up just fine. Other than fluid, the braking system on this car is one thing I have zero desire to change.

On my BMW race car, I have used PFC and Hawk pads. I like the Hawk DTC 70/60 and the PFC 08 in that application. But the R has better feel and modulation on the stock pads than that car does on the race pads.

One other point - a friend at FP verified that ~4 hrs per set of front pads is "on schedule" for most tracks.

Exactly what I heard about the track attack program. The brakes don't fade. Not because "instructors use less brakes than amateurs" :headbonk: but because they are that good!

I looked it up and found this quote:

This cooling became necessary when Ford decided to perform a durability test for the GT350R that consisted of a 24-hour run at a racetrack where the lap times were kept within three percent of the car’s flat-out max. The only things that could be replaced during the 24-hour run were brake pads, tires, and fuel. Any other failures and it was back to the drawing board.

https://blog.caranddriver.com/ford-...-the-more-we-learn-the-more-impressed-we-are/

I think the brakes are pretty good.

 

[Av8orntn]

The factory pads are cheap and work great.

.

I'm a novice at this so forgive me if this is a dumb question. I went to the dealer and they wanted $363 for pads for each front wheel and a week to order. That doesn't seem cheap for three days so is there a better place to buy them than the dealer? I understand cheap is relative so no need for people to blast me if that is cheap for pads.

 

[BlkGT3]

I would not use Hawk DTC pads on any vehicle I own, not because they don't stop the car, but they will ruin your wheels if you get the least amount of water on the brake dust. It turns into a concrete like compound.

Peter

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